servion

I've got a '92 civic CX. I recently did a rear disc conversion from a 2nd gen integra. I swapped over the rear trailing arms, calipers, discs, etc., e-brake cables and the 4040 prop valve. I removed the bracket from my stock prop valve and put it onto the 4040 one (which actually opened up the prop valve). I'm still running the stock CX master cylinder and booster.

The car seems to stop slower than it used to with the rear drums! I daily-drive a '93 civic SI (with stock rear discs) and it stops 100x better than the CX with the rear disc conversion.

I think that the rotors are warped in the back (they were re-cut but I think the guy did a shitty job), but I put on new pads with the conversion, and I don't think that minorly warped rotors would make it WORSE than drums

What could cause this? I bled all 4 of the brakes very well after the swap... why does my dear disck conversion suck?

WildPig

It may be that you stock master cylinder can't provide the hydralic power to clamp the brakes..........

dont quote me on that though

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

My helms manual says to NEVER dissasemble the proportioning valve. It is possible that loosening the two bolts that hold it together ruined it.
I know it's a bitch to install an Integra 40/40 (with the integra bracket), but it can be done without bending/damaging anything.

My rear disc swap came out great, but I also purchased brand new rotors/pads/hardware for it.

idriveadelsol7

haha... it should work better. just like alpine headunits and jl audio amplifiers are fantastic. and the 92-95 abs lip fits on the del sol. i haven't done it so i cannot help you out but here's a bump.

servion

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My helms manual says to NEVER dissasemble the proportioning valve. It is possible that loosening the two bolts that hold it together ruined it.
I know it's a bitch to install an Integra 40/40 (with the integra bracket), but it can be done without bending/damaging anything.

My rear disc swap came out great, but I also purchased brand new rotors/pads/hardware for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was wondering about that... however, I couldn't "see" any reason for it to no longer work properly. It was clean, it still seals fine. Perhaps I'll look for another prop valve

I got new pads, hardware and turned the rotors... but when I spin the back wheel I can hear the pads dragging in a pulsing matter on the rotor... I'm going to replace the rotors... I imagine I should not reuse the pads (nummber because they probably have 50 miles)

Any more thoughts? Has anyone ever opened up a prop valve and had is still work?

Soccerking3000

i thought you had to replace the brake booster master cylinder, to the 1 inch from the integra, i'm not sure on the actual size but i could have sworn you need to replace it

shifty35

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I was wondering about that... however, I couldn't "see" any reason for it to no longer work properly. It was clean, it still seals fine. Perhaps I'll look for another prop valve

I got new pads, hardware and turned the rotors... but when I spin the back wheel I can hear the pads dragging in a pulsing matter on the rotor... I'm going to replace the rotors... I imagine I should not reuse the pads (nummber because they probably have 50 miles)

Any more thoughts? Has anyone ever opened up a prop valve and had is still work?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What kind of front brakes do you have? If you still have the stockers, the 4040 will screw up your pressure... You need SI/EX/teg fronts.

Farmer Brown

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I imagine I should not reuse the pads (nummber because they probably have 50 miles)

Any more thoughts? Has anyone ever opened up a prop valve and had is still work?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pads should be fine. Go ahead and use them. Unless you really feel like spending the money.

AbitAvenger

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shifty35 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of front brakes do you have? If you still have the stockers, the 4040 will screw up your pressure... You need SI/EX/teg fronts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

can anyone confirm this?

kaiba

also how well did you bleed you brakes... did you follow the pattern.

servion

I went over the whole system twice when bleeding the brakes.... I had a buddy pump the petal a couple times, then cracked the bleeder let the fluid out and closed it again. Is it bad to let the brake pedal go all the way to the floor when you are bleeding the system? (I've read that you shouldn't puch the master cylinder in more than 3/4 the way... does pushing the blake medal to the floor do this?)

I still have the stock front brakes...

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

You need to use a 3040 from an EG Si if you are using the stock front brakes. You use a 4040 if you have the 10.25" front brakes.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shifty35 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of front brakes do you have? If you still have the stockers, the 4040 will screw up your pressure... You need SI/EX/teg fronts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AbitAvenger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can anyone confirm this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm running the 40/40 with stock 9.5" front brakes & rear discs (13/16 MC & stock booster too). I can easily kiss my windsheild when I hit the brakes. I took a long time to clean & lube the rear calipers too. The balance seems great, and I get perfect front end lock-up when I over do it.

Once I get my rear discs really hot, they will lock up first. This is because I added Axxis Ultimates in the rear, but left the fronts alone (USING GRIPPIER PADS IN THE REAR IS NOT RECOMENDED FOR THIS REASON). Once I get the front pads changed out, that will never happen.

I bled my brakes in perfect sequence (according to Helms), and went around about 4 times to make absoloutly sure there were NO bubbles in my bleeding tubes. I even started the car for the final bleeding round to add more line pressure than my buddies foot alone...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought you had to replace the brake booster master cylinder, to the 1 inch from the integra, i'm not sure on the actual size but i could have sworn you need to replace it</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is only the case if you have replaced your front brakes with bigger calipers. If your getting a "mushy" pedal from a rear disc swap, it means you have air in the lines, or a brake fluid leak somewere.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Djaric &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pads should be fine. Go ahead and use them. Unless you really feel like spending the money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would go ahead & re-use the pads too. Just do a quick "break-in" process on them & they'll be good to go...

Break In:
Several medium slow downs from 60-10mph
Followed by a cool down drive using as little braking as possible
Then Several hard slow downs from 60-10mph
Followed by a cool down
Park the car w/o the parking brake for an hour or two, and your good to go...

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've read that you shouldn't puch the master cylinder in more than 3/4 the way... does pushing the blake medal to the floor do this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, that is only for bench bleeding of the master cylinder out of the car...

servion

94eg!, thanks for the experienced info. I've got the same setup as you. I suppose I can just re-bleed the system and see if that helps. Do you think I could have damaged my 4040 prop valve by opening it up to change the mount bracket? How did you mount your prop valve?

flat-blk-HB

I have done the exact same thing you have and I also have a 92 Cx...Put a Master Cylinder off a 88-91 Civic EX...(bolts right up to your booster and doesnt have abs). This is waht fixed my problem....

servion

I saw a thread on the 4-door 91 EX MC... I was considering that.... however, there's got to be another problem here... if I can fix the problem AND upgrade to the 15/16 MC I'd be set

EDIT: Where did you get the m/c? Do you have a part #? In the main thread about that, people were not coming up with the same part # and some were 7/8 and not 15/16...

civic94B18B1

How do you do that because i'm gonna do it soon, does the bracket require heavy modification ?

nub.96ek

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WildPig &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It may be that you stock master cylinder can't provide the hydralic power to clamp the brakes..........

dont quote me on that though </TD></TR></TABLE>

what "HE" said

nub.96ek

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AbitAvenger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

can anyone confirm this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

PM fastassdx... he had the same problem...

legoman

did you bleed the brakes?

EL Vap133

Also may be the break-in period, it may feel like it takes your car longer to stop that's because the pads are new.

Redline96LX

TIP:
When replacing rotors with resurfaced or new ones, and you don't have new brake pads - If your old pads were used barely like you are mentioning, give them a once over with some 200 grit sand paper, in a up and down motion. if you can check thickness, do so, so as to check for warpage of the pad. sanding the matierial lightly will also take off glazing if they were improperly broken in.

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
EDIT: Where did you get the m/c? Do you have a part #? In the main thread about that, people were not coming up with the same part # and some were 7/8 and not 15/16...</TD></TR></TABLE>

46100-SH4-A11 MASTER CYLINDER ASSY. $151.63

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I'm telling you guys, you only need to upgrade the master cylinder IF you switch to larger FRONT calipers. Something else must be wrong with your braking system.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">94eg!, thanks for the experienced info. I've got the same setup as you. I suppose I can just re-bleed the system and see if that helps. Do you think I could have damaged my 4040 prop valve by opening it up to change the mount bracket? How did you mount your prop valve?</TD></TR></TABLE>

To mount the 40/40, I just unbolted all the clamps on the fire wall that hold down the random brake pipes. Next you slip your 40/40 onto just ONE of the three studs (I think its the passenger side one. Now since the integra mount places the valve further out, it is difficult to get teh brake lines attached. start by moving all the pipes into place. Then start the threading the nuts into the valve body. This is the hard part since the brake lines must be pointing straight into the valve for the nuts to start threading. Once the start threading properly, move on to the next one. Once they are all threaded, torque each one down, and install the one nut onto the mounting stud in the bracket. Don't worry that there is only one stud supporting the valve, it also has the support of all the metal pipes too. Now that everything is in place, bolt all the random clamps that you removed to free up the pipes.

Finally drive the car & then check for fluid leaks...