Rear Disc brake Caliper
12-12-2007, 11:52 AM
#1
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Rear Disc brake Caliper
On my '95 civic ex, I can't get the brake cylinder to compress. I've searched for help but found nothing helpful. So far I've opened the bleeder valve to try and release some pressure; that didn't help at all. Is there any way I can get brake caliiper to compress easily without buying any tools (Can't drive anywhere)??? THANKS FOR ANY INPUT ON MY CURRENT SITUATION!! 
12-12-2007, 12:04 PM
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Re: Rear Disc brake Caliper (^LORTA^RACING)
Take the pads out. Put the caliper back on the bracket. Then use a big flat screwdriver or some sort of bar to leverage on hte caliper and push the piston back. Im not sure but is the caliper an open piston caliper or does it have a piston with groves on it. If it has groves then it has to be rotated counterclockwise to pust the piston back inside. If its just and open piston then just push back in.
12-12-2007, 12:05 PM
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Re: Rear Disc brake Caliper (Perfectionist)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Perfectionist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They probably "screw" back in... not compress.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not probably, they DO screw back in.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not probably, they DO screw back in.
12-12-2007, 12:09 PM
#5
Re: Rear Disc brake Caliper (^LORTA^RACING)
You gotta screw it back in...
W/O the proper tool it's kind of a bitch to do... but I've used semi-flat headed needle nose pliers slightly open to turn the piston back in... but it took prob. 20 times as long as doing it with the right tool...
You might be able to borrow the tool from Autozone if there's one around you.
W/O the proper tool it's kind of a bitch to do... but I've used semi-flat headed needle nose pliers slightly open to turn the piston back in... but it took prob. 20 times as long as doing it with the right tool...
You might be able to borrow the tool from Autozone if there's one around you.
12-12-2007, 12:28 PM
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Re: Rear Disc brake Caliper (NonovUrbizniz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You gotta screw it back in...
W/O the proper tool it's kind of a bitch to do... but I've used semi-flat headed needle nose pliers slightly open to turn the piston back in... but it took prob. 20 times as long as doing it with the right tool...
You might be able to borrow the tool from Autozone if there's one around you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2 use WD40 generously too....
W/O the proper tool it's kind of a bitch to do... but I've used semi-flat headed needle nose pliers slightly open to turn the piston back in... but it took prob. 20 times as long as doing it with the right tool...
You might be able to borrow the tool from Autozone if there's one around you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2 use WD40 generously too....
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12-12-2007, 12:39 PM
#8
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YESS!! I didnt feel like walking to autozone to buy the special tool that was mentioned, so I used a wire stripper tool bcuz the nose of it fit the cross on the brake cylinder. I turned it counter clockwise until it came loose; then all the way clockwise until it compressed!! THANKS!! I O U GUYZ
12-12-2007, 12:41 PM
#9
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Re: (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Step 1: Open the bleeder valve.
Step 2: Set an old brake pad on the piston.
Step 3: Equip A c-clamp.
Step 4: Go to town on the C-Clamp, use a wrench for extra leverage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I really wouldn't do this on a rear caliper piston.
Step 2: Set an old brake pad on the piston.
Step 3: Equip A c-clamp.
Step 4: Go to town on the C-Clamp, use a wrench for extra leverage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I really wouldn't do this on a rear caliper piston.
12-12-2007, 01:00 PM
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (WhiteOnRice)
For anyone that rarely uses the tools...Harbor Freight sells an awesome kit! I used it on my g/f's mustang. When I bought the set in the store it was only $20!
12-12-2007, 01:28 PM
#11
Re: (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Step 1: Open the bleeder valve.
Step 2: Set an old brake pad on the piston.
Step 3: Equip A c-clamp.
Step 4: Go to town on the C-Clamp, use a wrench for extra leverage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You missed step 5:
Go to the dealer or search the internet parts places for a replacement caliper.
Step 2: Set an old brake pad on the piston.
Step 3: Equip A c-clamp.
Step 4: Go to town on the C-Clamp, use a wrench for extra leverage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You missed step 5:
Go to the dealer or search the internet parts places for a replacement caliper.
12-12-2007, 01:43 PM
#12
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Re: Rear Disc brake Caliper (NonovUrbizniz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You gotta screw it back in...
W/O the proper tool it's kind of a bitch to do... but I've used semi-flat headed needle nose pliers slightly open to turn the piston back in... but it took prob. 20 times as long as doing it with the right tool...
You might be able to borrow the tool from Autozone if there's one around you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just buy the tool bro, i'm sure its less than $10. the tool makes it so much easier.
W/O the proper tool it's kind of a bitch to do... but I've used semi-flat headed needle nose pliers slightly open to turn the piston back in... but it took prob. 20 times as long as doing it with the right tool...
You might be able to borrow the tool from Autozone if there's one around you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just buy the tool bro, i'm sure its less than $10. the tool makes it so much easier.
12-12-2007, 02:04 PM
#13
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Re: (Perfectionist)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Perfectionist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You missed step 5:
Go to the dealer or search the internet parts places for a replacement caliper.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess that would be important.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhiteOnRice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I really wouldn't do this on a rear caliper piston. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I take it they are different that front caliper pistons?
You missed step 5:
Go to the dealer or search the internet parts places for a replacement caliper.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess that would be important.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhiteOnRice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I really wouldn't do this on a rear caliper piston. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I take it they are different that front caliper pistons?
12-12-2007, 02:14 PM
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Re: (Perfectionist)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Step 1: Open the bleeder valve.
Step 2: Set an old brake pad on the piston.
Step 3: Equip A c-clamp.
Step 4: Go to town on the C-Clamp, use a wrench for extra leverage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is exactly how I broke 3 c-clamps. You'd think after the second one I would have learned. Oh well!
Step 2: Set an old brake pad on the piston.
Step 3: Equip A c-clamp.
Step 4: Go to town on the C-Clamp, use a wrench for extra leverage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is exactly how I broke 3 c-clamps. You'd think after the second one I would have learned. Oh well!
12-12-2007, 02:16 PM
#15
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Re: (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I take it they are different that front caliper pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Front can simply be compressed, rear must be rotated to be compressed.
Front can simply be compressed, rear must be rotated to be compressed.
12-12-2007, 02:31 PM
#16
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Re: (WhiteOnRice)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhiteOnRice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Front can simply be compressed, rear must be rotated to be compressed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Aha.
< Dx owner, drums equipped.
Thanks for sharing
Front can simply be compressed, rear must be rotated to be compressed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Aha.
< Dx owner, drums equipped.
Thanks for sharing
12-12-2007, 03:26 PM
#17
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Re: (WhiteOnRice)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhiteOnRice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow you went as far as opening the bleeder bolt. Hopefully you didn't get any air in the line.
Buy this (for next time at least):
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is the exact tool i have and use,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Step 1: Open the bleeder valve.
Step 2: Set an old brake pad on the piston.
Step 3: Equip A c-clamp.
Step 4: Go to town on the C-Clamp, use a wrench for extra leverage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe somone can explain better, but why open the bleed valve? all you are doing is allowing air back into the lines.
what i do and recommend is whenever doing brakes, open the cap to the fluid resevoir. what this does is it allows less restriction when pushing or twisting the pistin back in. it allows the fluid to move freely without allowing air into the lines, possibly saving time and fustration from bleeding the brakes.
Buy this (for next time at least):
</TD></TR></TABLE>this is the exact tool i have and use,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Step 1: Open the bleeder valve.
Step 2: Set an old brake pad on the piston.
Step 3: Equip A c-clamp.
Step 4: Go to town on the C-Clamp, use a wrench for extra leverage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe somone can explain better, but why open the bleed valve? all you are doing is allowing air back into the lines.
what i do and recommend is whenever doing brakes, open the cap to the fluid resevoir. what this does is it allows less restriction when pushing or twisting the pistin back in. it allows the fluid to move freely without allowing air into the lines, possibly saving time and fustration from bleeding the brakes.
12-12-2007, 05:27 PM
#18
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Re: (philosofy1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
maybe somone can explain better, but why open the bleed valve? all you are doing is allowing air back into the lines</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can either open the bleeder valve, OR the reservior caps. When I change my rotors/pads i bleed my brakes anyway.
Either one works.
maybe somone can explain better, but why open the bleed valve? all you are doing is allowing air back into the lines</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can either open the bleeder valve, OR the reservior caps. When I change my rotors/pads i bleed my brakes anyway.
Either one works.
12-12-2007, 05:36 PM
#20
Re: (WhiteOnRice)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhiteOnRice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just compress front or screw in back (without cracking a bleeder/reservoir). I don't see why that's needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think he said it so that pressure could be released from the lines, that way it'd be easier to compress the piston, instead of working against the pressure in the lines.
I think he said it so that pressure could be released from the lines, that way it'd be easier to compress the piston, instead of working against the pressure in the lines.
12-12-2007, 05:39 PM
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (sk8shorty012)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sk8shorty012 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think he said it so that pressure could be released from the lines, that way it'd be easier to compress the piston, instead of working against the pressure in the lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I still don't see why it's needed when the reservoir is never supposed to be topped off for that exact reason (air in the reservoir will compress).
I still don't see why it's needed when the reservoir is never supposed to be topped off for that exact reason (air in the reservoir will compress).
12-12-2007, 06:10 PM
#22
Honda-Tech Member
the rears screw in, the fronts you can just compress, take the cap off the master cyclinder and this will make it a lot easier. if you open the bleeder valve you will have to bleed your brake system. also they sell the tool for the rears at harbor freight for like 5 bucks
gl
gl
12-12-2007, 07:49 PM
#25
Unceasing Measure
Re: (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Step 1: Open the bleeder valve.
Step 2: Set an old brake pad on the piston.
Step 3: Equip A c-clamp.
Step 4: Go to town on the C-Clamp, use a wrench for extra leverage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I suggest deleting your post and refraining from commenting on things you have no experience with
Rear calipers are neither cheap nor fun to replace because somebody on the internet with a high post count told you how best to break them.
I don't tell people how to suck because I have no experience. Follow the example
Step 2: Set an old brake pad on the piston.
Step 3: Equip A c-clamp.
Step 4: Go to town on the C-Clamp, use a wrench for extra leverage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I suggest deleting your post and refraining from commenting on things you have no experience with
Rear calipers are neither cheap nor fun to replace because somebody on the internet with a high post count told you how best to break them.I don't tell people how to suck because I have no experience. Follow the example
