Rear Caliper Replacement
08-22-2006, 09:12 AM
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Re: Rear Caliper Replacement (schlit)
just a thought it is not very expensive to over haul the caliper. it is usual just the slide pin that seizes up. the pins and rubber seals are like $25 plus the price of a good break pin lube. all you have to do is unbolt the slid pins from the caliper hang the caliper out of the way and remove the bracket from the hub. Use a little heat and work out the pin clean well replace the rubber guides lube and reassemble
08-23-2006, 08:02 AM
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I guess I'd have to mention cross drilled rotors or something about an intake to get a decent response in this forum anymore.
Modified by CardDealer at 9:24 AM 11/16/2006
Modified by CardDealer at 9:24 AM 11/16/2006
08-23-2006, 09:11 AM
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Re: (schlit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I'd have to mention cross drilled rotors or something about an intake to get a decent response in this forum anymore.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL. You should be fine with just bleeding that corner. At least bleed that corner first, then check the pedal. There shouldn't be too much air in the lines . If your pedal still feels mushy after bleeding that side do all of them. This might be a good time for some speed bleeders.
LOL. You should be fine with just bleeding that corner. At least bleed that corner first, then check the pedal. There shouldn't be too much air in the lines . If your pedal still feels mushy after bleeding that side do all of them. This might be a good time for some speed bleeders.
08-23-2006, 09:31 AM
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Re: (schlit)
I was just giving you the most common problem for the caliper being seized.Yes it is better to replace the caliper if it is the puck/ ebrake that is the problem. To answer the rest of the question. you will have air in the system. so you will need to bleed them. I would bleed all 4 start with rr,lf,lr,rf.
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08-23-2006, 11:11 AM
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Re: Rear Caliper Replacement (schlit)
You will only need to bleed that caliper if you keep the recivoir full, if it's not kept full, then you will need to bleed the whole system.
08-24-2006, 04:48 AM
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Re: (schlit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juevi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will only need to bleed that caliper if you keep the recivoir full, if it's not kept full, then you will need to bleed the whole system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is more complicated than that, I would always bleed all 4 when ever the system is opened up and air can get in.
It is more complicated than that, I would always bleed all 4 when ever the system is opened up and air can get in.
08-25-2006, 05:17 AM
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Re: (schlit)
its not really more complicated it just takes a little longer and you have to watch the level in the MC. If you didn't clamp off the line then when you changed the caliper then it is possible that more air got into the system. just read my last post about what order to bleed them
08-25-2006, 06:28 AM
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Re: (schlit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Note to anyone else doing this, if you're also replacing the rotors, that method in the Helms that says to screw 2 bolts into the rotor to push it away and unstick it from the hub doesnt work. There's two big friggin holes drilled into the hub at those two locations, which means the bolts dont push on anything.....therefore just use the sledge hammer technique.</TD></TR></TABLE>
To my knowledge, those screws that go into the rotor are there more to help keep the rotor in place as you are trying to put everything back together.
-Shane
To my knowledge, those screws that go into the rotor are there more to help keep the rotor in place as you are trying to put everything back together.
-Shane
08-25-2006, 08:33 PM
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Re: (schlit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to push the rotor off the hub (since they're usually rusted together)</TD></TR></TABLE>
And then god created the dead-blow hammer, and all was well.
And then god created the dead-blow hammer, and all was well.
08-26-2006, 08:00 AM
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Re: (schlit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schlit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, not the retaining screws. There's two other holes in the rotors you screw bolts into to push the rotor off the hub (since they're usually rusted together)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Gotcha. I didn't have a problem getting them off of my car, but my truck was a little more difficult.
And to the OP, you should always bleed all four corners just to be safe.
-Shane
No, not the retaining screws. There's two other holes in the rotors you screw bolts into to push the rotor off the hub (since they're usually rusted together)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Gotcha. I didn't have a problem getting them off of my car, but my truck was a little more difficult.
And to the OP, you should always bleed all four corners just to be safe.
-Shane
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