Rear Bumper Removal - 98 coupe
11-25-2007, 12:45 PM
#1
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Rear Bumper Removal - 98 coupe
Does anyone have any tips for removing the two bolts on the bottom of the rear bumper on a '98 Civic coupe?
I do not own a dremel!
My bolts seem to have rusted together. The nut on top is spinning with the bolt and doesn't seem to want to let go. We already bent a screwdriver trying to remove one of the bolts.
The bolts are flathead btw.
It's fine if you destroy the bolts (might have to cut them off I guess), but I don't want to damage the car or the bumper.
Here is a photo of the less torn up bolt.
And this is where they are.
Modified by NOFX at 11:06 PM 11/26/2007
I do not own a dremel!
My bolts seem to have rusted together. The nut on top is spinning with the bolt and doesn't seem to want to let go. We already bent a screwdriver trying to remove one of the bolts.
The bolts are flathead btw.
It's fine if you destroy the bolts (might have to cut them off I guess), but I don't want to damage the car or the bumper.
Here is a photo of the less torn up bolt.
And this is where they are.
Modified by NOFX at 11:06 PM 11/26/2007
11-25-2007, 01:22 PM
#3
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Re: Rear Bumper Removal - 98 coupe (pat92si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pat92si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you maybe grab it with a pair of vice grips really tight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
11-25-2007, 10:01 PM
#5
H-T White Ops
Thread Starter
There's room for the vice grips to grip the nut on top, but the bolt is just a flathead and it's hard to get any torque on it because of that.
Already used penetrating spray too.
Already used penetrating spray too.
11-25-2007, 10:03 PM
#6
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Re: (NOFX)
are they those POS plastic clip things? expletive i hate those LOL
ya when i was building my race car i just drilled out the centers and ripped em out
replaced the holes with zip ties........when we pull it into the pits to fix damage it goes by quick, cut the tie wraps off, rip bumper off, replace re tie wrap and go
shaved a good 5 mins off of our pit time
ya when i was building my race car i just drilled out the centers and ripped em out
replaced the holes with zip ties........when we pull it into the pits to fix damage it goes by quick, cut the tie wraps off, rip bumper off, replace re tie wrap and go
shaved a good 5 mins off of our pit time
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11-25-2007, 10:05 PM
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Re: (jdm_ekcivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_ekcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make it a Phillips with a dremel?
Either that or just cut it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2.. then replace it with new ones.
Either that or just cut it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2.. then replace it with new ones.
11-25-2007, 10:16 PM
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If you can get a dremel in there, cut two opposing sides of the nut flat and get a crescent wrench on it (worked well on my stripped alternator lock bolt). If not a dremel then maybe take the time to file it.
11-26-2007, 04:32 AM
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Re: (koa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by koa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to oreillys and get a reverse drill bit...it drills to the left so when you drill it out it will grab it and pull it out</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's exactly what I'd do.
Get a reverse drill bit and hope you can back it out that way.
If not, regular drill bit right down the center axis and you'll have to pull it out w/ needle nose in pieces (or it might come out easily through the top once split). I would say heat it but obviously it's right on your bumper so that's a no go.
That's exactly what I'd do.
Get a reverse drill bit and hope you can back it out that way.
If not, regular drill bit right down the center axis and you'll have to pull it out w/ needle nose in pieces (or it might come out easily through the top once split). I would say heat it but obviously it's right on your bumper so that's a no go.
11-26-2007, 11:30 AM
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The reverse drill bit wouldn't work at all. There's nothing for it to grab.
It's a round-top flathead screw set into an 11mm nut. They're rusted together, and for the most part, not attached to the car. They spin in place.
Even if I had a drill bit set into it, how am I going to get any more force on it than I already am?
The only decent sugguestion so far is to either cut it off completely, or make it into a Philip's head. These themselves are poor options because I don't own a dremel.
It's a round-top flathead screw set into an 11mm nut. They're rusted together, and for the most part, not attached to the car. They spin in place.
Even if I had a drill bit set into it, how am I going to get any more force on it than I already am?
The only decent sugguestion so far is to either cut it off completely, or make it into a Philip's head. These themselves are poor options because I don't own a dremel.
11-26-2007, 11:44 AM
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Re: (Neebs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neebs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use pliers on the nut so that you can loosen the other bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've tried that.
It's rusted so hard that I started to strip out one of the flat-heads.
It's like the people in here give no credit for common sense.
I've tried that.
It's rusted so hard that I started to strip out one of the flat-heads.It's like the people in here give no credit for common sense.
11-26-2007, 11:50 AM
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Re: (Neebs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neebs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Best is to yank that crap out really hard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yank? Are you aware what a 'thread' is?
Yank?
Are you aware what a 'thread' is?
11-26-2007, 01:18 PM
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Re: (Neebs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neebs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine didn't have the threaded one. Only the flat one where you pop it with a flat head.
The threaded is possible to yank out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think you're reading what anyone is posting:
THEY ARE METAL BOLTS.
The threaded is possible to yank out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think you're reading what anyone is posting:
THEY ARE METAL BOLTS.
11-26-2007, 02:53 PM
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Re: (Eran)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These themselves are poor options because I don't own a dremel. </TD></TR></TABLE>
From what you have described, it sounds as though the bolt and the nut have basically bonded together. I would have suggested to try to twist it off (the bolt isnt THAT big), but there's nowhere to grab onto it on the rounded side so you dont really have much of a choice but to cut it. Get a B&D dremel for ~20-30 bucks and cut the bolt. Its not like you wont have a use for it later...
From what you have described, it sounds as though the bolt and the nut have basically bonded together. I would have suggested to try to twist it off (the bolt isnt THAT big), but there's nowhere to grab onto it on the rounded side so you dont really have much of a choice but to cut it. Get a B&D dremel for ~20-30 bucks and cut the bolt. Its not like you wont have a use for it later...
11-26-2007, 03:14 PM
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Re: (Sundown)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sundown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what you have described, it sounds as though the bolt and the nut have basically bonded together. I would have suggested to try to twist it off (the bolt isnt THAT big), but there's nowhere to grab onto it on the rounded side so you dont really have much of a choice but to cut it. Get a B&D dremel for ~20-30 bucks and cut the bolt. Its not like you wont have a use for it later... </TD></TR></TABLE>
im just wondering how he works on his car if he doesnt have the most BASIC of tools......or even a welder! seriously after i bought my first one i would never work on a car without one it just makes everything on a car cheaper!
just get a 1/2" and turn the ******.........LOL thats how i take care of rusted bolts...
if not put your hand flat on it. hit your hand with your fist and itll break loose if not go get someone who is stronger than you...........its not hard
im just wondering how he works on his car if he doesnt have the most BASIC of tools......or even a welder! seriously after i bought my first one i would never work on a car without one it just makes everything on a car cheaper!
just get a 1/2" and turn the ******.........LOL thats how i take care of rusted bolts...
if not put your hand flat on it. hit your hand with your fist and itll break loose if not go get someone who is stronger than you...........its not hard
11-26-2007, 04:52 PM
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Re: (civic.slow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic.slow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im just wondering how he works on his car if he doesnt have the most BASIC of tools......or even a welder! seriously after i bought my first one i would never work on a car without one it just makes everything on a car cheaper!
just get a 1/2" and turn the ******.........LOL thats how i take care of rusted bolts...
if not put your hand flat on it. hit your hand with your fist and itll break loose if not go get someone who is stronger than you...........its not hard
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Once again .... someone who hasn't read the thread. The screw and bolt spin. They're also completely vertical and the flathead side is facing the ground. It makes it impossible to get any sort of decent torque, or to be held in place by the screw side.
im just wondering how he works on his car if he doesnt have the most BASIC of tools......or even a welder! seriously after i bought my first one i would never work on a car without one it just makes everything on a car cheaper!
just get a 1/2" and turn the ******.........LOL thats how i take care of rusted bolts...
if not put your hand flat on it. hit your hand with your fist and itll break loose if not go get someone who is stronger than you...........its not hard
</TD></TR></TABLE>Once again .... someone who hasn't read the thread. The screw and bolt spin. They're also completely vertical and the flathead side is facing the ground. It makes it impossible to get any sort of decent torque, or to be held in place by the screw side.
11-26-2007, 05:05 PM
#24
H-T White Ops
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My father has been a professional diesel eighteen wheeler mechanic for over twenty years.
I will have to ask how he has managed to get by for so long without owning such a basic tool as a dremel.
I will have to ask how he has managed to get by for so long without owning such a basic tool as a dremel.
