Hatchamaback

Would it be safe to retorque the head after maybe 100 miles of dirivng after a fresh rebuild I did a search already and was seeing if it is safe, to me it seems logical.

Im using ARP head studs on my LS. Just wondering if anyone hasdone this or their opinion on it etc.

Thanks.

Luserkid

Youll have to call ARP direct for the actual spec. But yea you could.

Have some 30 weight only handy though or get some more of the ARP lube. I know my GSR head studs were 80ft lbs retorque with 30 weight oil. And that came direct from them so yes you could reuse them, theyll never stretch.

Hatchamaback

Actually my question wasnt about the Reuse of them, its about re torqueing the head to make sure everything is sound after running it for a while.
Beucase i did 3 step torque it down and all and i just want to know if i could torqu it down again on the last ft Lb. without hurting anything. Just asking about experiences.

HondaFanatic708

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchamaback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually my question wasnt about the Reuse of them, its about re torqueing the head to make sure everything is sound after running it for a while.
Beucase i did 3 step torque it down and all and i just want to know if i could torqu it down again on the last ft Lb. without hurting anything. Just asking about experiences.</TD></TR></TABLE>Making sure the head studs and nuts are torqued to spec after some mileage sounds logical to me. It's better to be safe than sorry. Besides if it is out of spec it needs to be tightened. I perosnally would quickly check the torque on the bolts every time I was in the area, just to make sure all is 100%..

Hatchamaback

Good stuff, Thanks.

Toxidomask

I did retorque mine also, but thats because after puting everything together, i noticed a leak around the HG area; at first close to the tranny area, then but noticed even the front area. (I am certain it is not my dist. seal, i used new GE cam caps, new cam seals; no leaks were noted coming from top of head). So after 50 miles, i opened the valve covers and retorque it again, from the 70lbs that I satarted with to 75lbs last setting on my torque wrench, hehehe. Leak stopped; wierd huh? I called ARP, they said since im using the lube that came with the kit, the torque should be 70lbs. I read some where here, that when using ARPs, you torque it to the recomended setting, and leave it overnight, then after 24 hours, you should retorque the same settings; so you dont have to waste time and opening the valve covers/taking the cams out again. because they settle or something. I always hear about taking it out after a 1000 miles, which is waste of time and money. Been past my 1500 mark, still no leaks thank goodness.

nocturnaldragon

I dont see how it can hurt it, I checked the manual and it dosent mention retighting anything so you should be alright without it. Do what luser kid said and call arp and ask them what you should retorque everything too if you want to feel a little better about your setup, I would in your case.

Eddiebx

yoru actually suppose to retq the head studs after you run the engine through a few heat cycles, so your doing the right thing

Hatchamaback

GOOD STUFF! Thanks alot guys for the feedback.

HondaFanatic708

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yoru actually suppose to retq the head studs after you run the engine through a few heat cycles, so your doing the right thing </TD></TR></TABLE> Because the head/block will expand and contract with the heating and cooling.

Toxidomask I don't see how you would be wasting money by double-checking the torque on your head bolts. If it's a waste of time or not is all one's opinion. I think that connection is rather critical..

GS-Rcivic

you suppose to and i did it as well but everything was to spec so all that work for nothing. Its one of those "what if" things, if you dont mind doing it then do it and feel confident that its on there pretty good.

Eddiebx

yeah sometimes they are dead on sometimes i find a few loose ones, but definitely something i would do. i would hate to blow a gasket just cuz i was too lazy to spend an hr and check em

Toxidomask

ohh, no i didnt say a waste of money or time, I spent close to 3000bux in parts i wouldnt want to mess that up either. Im saying, its time consuming to have to redo torquing. And they say this to most of the ARPs. (only ARPs). I have not heard of people retorquing AEBS's, or Golden Eagles.

rmcdaniels

I re-torqued my ARP studs after about 600 miles. They were a bit off, but nothing major. I haven't had any problems with it since re-torqueing the studs, and I'm running 18 PSI of boost.

HondaFanatic708

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I re-torqued my ARP studs after about 600 miles. They were a bit off, but nothing major. I haven't had any problems with it since re-torqueing the studs, and I'm running 18 PSI of boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah ARP is good ****. Just ordered mine for my LS/VTEC build..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toxidomask &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ohh, no i didnt say a waste of money or time, I spent close to 3000bux in parts i wouldnt want to mess that up either. Im saying, its time consuming to have to redo torquing. And they say this to most of the ARPs. (only ARPs). I have not heard of people retorquing AEBS's, or Golden Eagles. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah it does take some time but not even an hour. I would just do it or check it before valve adjustments. Or are those a waste of time too? Not as much time as it would take to replace that $3,000 in parts..