re-threading ball joint
#1
re-threading ball joint
so, when removing axles one of the first steps is to remove the castle nut from the lower ball joing to you can slide out the axle. well, i regretfully messed up the threads on the ball joint while beating the nut with a mallet so now its tough to screw the castle nut back on... i managed to get it about 3/4 of the way on and enough to get the cotter pin through.
my questions are:
1) "how do i go about rethreading this ball joint?"
2) "if i can rethread it, what size, pitch and other die specs do i need?"
EDIT: found this thread...but it doesn't have the info i need
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=799148
my questions are:
1) "how do i go about rethreading this ball joint?"
2) "if i can rethread it, what size, pitch and other die specs do i need?"
EDIT: found this thread...but it doesn't have the info i need
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=799148
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Re: re-threading ball joint (Dan GSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe its 12mm x 1.5</TD></TR></TABLE>
alos after you remove the nut..just beat on the arm...that is the break point to make it pop out
alos after you remove the nut..just beat on the arm...that is the break point to make it pop out
#7
Re: re-threading ball joint (jovial111)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jovial111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my questions are:
1) "how do i go about rethreading this ball joint?"
2) "if i can rethread it, what size, pitch and other die specs do i need?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
1) "how do i go about rethreading this ball joint?"
2) "if i can rethread it, what size, pitch and other die specs do i need?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
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#8
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Re: re-threading ball joint (jovial111)
hmm i think if u want to rethread it. that means u have to do 1 size down.. and that would mean u are going to have to use a smaller nut.. i think u should just replace the ball joint
#9
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Re: re-threading ball joint (jovial111)
You can replace it, the whole piece is $50 at the dealership
I did the same, go the nut halfway on and drove very carefully to my friends house where we took an airgun and shot it on all the way... its basically never coming off again lol
but be careful, about a week ago my friend did the same thing... took my advice and tried to drive to a friends house w/ an air compressor.... 2 blocks away, his suspension collapsed and he fucked his fender in the ***... but it was once again only a $50 fix
I did the same, go the nut halfway on and drove very carefully to my friends house where we took an airgun and shot it on all the way... its basically never coming off again lol
but be careful, about a week ago my friend did the same thing... took my advice and tried to drive to a friends house w/ an air compressor.... 2 blocks away, his suspension collapsed and he fucked his fender in the ***... but it was once again only a $50 fix
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: re-threading ball joint (jovial111)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jovial111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my questions are:
1) "how do i go about rethreading this ball joint?"
2) "if i can rethread it, what size, pitch and other die specs do i need?"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe its 12mm x 1.5</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you don't know how to use a die, then you should have someone else do it
my questions are:
1) "how do i go about rethreading this ball joint?"
2) "if i can rethread it, what size, pitch and other die specs do i need?"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe its 12mm x 1.5</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you don't know how to use a die, then you should have someone else do it
#11
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I've done the same mistake. The bolt got fat because I didn't put a nut around it. I used a dremel to get the diameter about the same where I could rethread the part. It was a temporary fix until you get to replace it.
#12
Re: (jbs)
well, since the threads are not too bad, i think i can rethread it w/ out any trouble. i've found out from the helms that the nut is 12x1.25mm but that is a tough die to find at the online stores i've checked at. (sears, nope, ace, nope, mac, nope, random tool stores found on google, nope) so... i'm going to scout around my school's machine shop and see if we have it...our tools are so friggin unorganized that no one knows where the full tap/die set is. we'll see though...i am pretty confidient i can fix it fine w/ out replacing the ball joint which will be a bizzle cause its pressed in. i check the castle nut daily and it hasn't budged a mm. wish me luck.
p.s. be careful with your threads because they screw up even more easily than you think.
p.s. be careful with your threads because they screw up even more easily than you think.
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Re: (jovial111)
if u have access to your schools machine shop. and im thinking they should have a press. why don't u buy a new ball joint and call it a day.
#14
Re: (JCracer723)
If its possible to rethread it then that's what i'm going to do because it'll be easier than removing the whole spindle/suspension assembly. plus i'd rather spend no dollars fixing a part than $50 dollars buying a new ball joint. Also, sometime in the future i'm planning on getting front GSR brake assemblies so that'll be a better time for me to replace the ball joint
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