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Rally Hatch build thread

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Old 10-07-2016, 09:02 PM
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Default Re: Rally Hatch build thread

Intercooler, HKS mushroom filter (I've wanted one forever finally got one and looks new too), piping, Bov, Couplers, clamps are all here.. put some of it together sorta, should fit my car.

Just need dp, solenoid and dump tube, not much of an obstacle really.

Planning on doing the big job in the next few days. It's already snowed here in my city though, ugh.

Woot! Incoming boost and new front end (new lca w sway bar new ball joints, new bushings, new axles, itr 4x114.3 knuckles hubs and brakes, new ball joints, new tie rods)..
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:00 AM
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Sat down and modified my ecu for pwm boost control. Took about 20 minutes, but I have soldering skill.

Should have turbo and new front end on within a week I'm hoping.
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:36 PM
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Buying an Endyn catch can kit this week for 100 CAD, guy wanted 150 last year but when I contacted him to see if he still had it he said 100, fine by me when it goes for 200 usd new. Comes with some random spare fittings too.

Might buy two more -8an fuel cell fittings and put them on my valve cover for more ventilation. Won't be running drain back, may run the drip line to a second larger cannister though.

May also be renting a garage with a fellow Honda friend as a workshop. He just told me he wants to do a j35 swap into his EK coupe, should be nuts torque if it happens.

Hoping to get started this week but I want to get a few extras maybe.. valve stem seals, new vc gasket probably as my last one I silicone'd on there good, new alt belt, new timing belt / waterpump.
Old 10-16-2016, 08:37 PM
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Default Re: Rally Hatch build thread

For turbo, just need the catch can kit, boost solenoid and exhaust.. may make my downpipe/dumptube myself or at least mock'n'tack and have an exhaust shop seal it.
Old 10-22-2016, 08:02 PM
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My ride started feeling fucked on my way back from picking up the Endyne catch can kit..

So I guess I forgot to retorque my lugs after my last tire change? I dunno, it looks like two lug nuts backed themselves off and snapped two lug studs, adjacent ones.

My brakes also started failing, the pedal kept going lower and lower, though I haven't visibly lost any fluid, if I pump it goes to normal so I must be pulling in air somehow.

I figured it was the opposing side / my axle, even had my friend watch the wheel as I drove slowly to see if anything wasn't looking right, as I was doing that a biker dude pointed out the wheel on the other side was wobbling, checked it out and only two lug nuts were holding it on and one was loose! Jacked it up a bit, tightened them up and parked it. Could definitely explain some brake issues.

My short shifter has also started "twisting", and knowing the assembly it makes me wonder how that's happening and why it hasn't completely broke yet, I haven't looked yet though.

I had already been planning on doing my front end swap any day now, I have a good friend who's going to help and he's a certified heavy duty mechanic and he's available for tomorrow so we're going to go to the shop tomorrow morning, get the lower ball joints out, try and get the uppers out without damaging the uca's and pUT in the E.S. bushings. If the ITR ucas do get damagedone trying to press the BJ's out I'll just reuse the current ones for now. I wasn't aware that it's generally easier to just replace the uca, generally I read the logic is that the bushings will be done if the bj is so might as well replace it however I had already decided to replace the bushings. I think I should be fine.

Once the new BJ's are in and any bushings that would be easier done in a shop installed, we leave and go to where my car is and I'll gently drive it to my garage with my friend following. I'm hoping to avoid a tow, also hoping to not lose a wheel though, fortunately it's not a huge distance.

Once there car goes up on 4 stands. Wheels, knuckle, rotor, caliper, lower control arms and 'radius' arms, upper control arms, axles, outer tie rods, front bumper, radiator, ex heatshield, exhaust manifold and downpipe all come off.

Then on goes new axles, new tie rods, LS sway bar with new ES endlinks, teg control arms, ITR 4x114.3 knuckle, hub, caliper, rotor, pads, new energy suspension poly bushings in everything, intercooler, aluminum radiator, charge piping, turbo manifold, turbo, hks mushroom filter, turbosmart wastegate, endyne cqtch can kit.

I may only get the front end stuff done first, I'll need an alignment right away and I want to also get a new timing belt and water pump and valve seals. I still need a 3 or 4 port boost control solenoid and some exhaust flanges and pipe for the dump tube and downpipe, I may just tack something together and have a shop weld it up though I've also considered just leaving it and having a shop weld it up but then I'll be forced to move the car with open headers to where my sedan is and drive the sedan for work for a bit then drive it to the exhaust shop open.

Wish me luck tomorrow it's going to be a big day.
Old 10-22-2016, 08:08 PM
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Oh and my Bluetooth adapter arrived..and of course it's not working with tunerview app..it connects but nothing. I've tried reversing the rx and TX and still nothing. Logging works fine over my ftdi cable. I'm going to try logging in ectune over a Bluetooth provided comport but I'll have to install Bluetooth drivers and a stack on my tuning laptop to test.
Old 10-23-2016, 04:45 PM
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Default Re: Rally Hatch build thread

probably using the incorrect lugs if they're backing off. shitty quality shifters bend/snap.
Old 10-24-2016, 09:42 PM
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Didn't feel like crawling on the floor today (or rolling, I do have a creeper) or reefing trying to free the tie rods, sore from yesterday still. Soaked the rods in some penetrating lube, sprayed them a few times last night and today.

Instead today I worked on a few other things. Pulled off the front bumper cover, found out it was only held on by two screw clips, was surprisingly sturdy considering (still not that sturdy really but more than I would have expected for two).

I spent about 30 minutes straightening out all the bent fins on the intercooler. I also painted it blue. Yes, I know painting an intercooler actually can reduce performance however it was already painted black and I kind of like the shade of blue.

Also took off my strut bar and painted it blue too, I didn't mind the red but I didn't like how it turned out, I originally did yellow, didn't like it (thought it would match better with my plug wires which are yellow but it didn't look good) and covered it with red in a hurry. Took my door panels off and did a coat of flat black on them as I never finished last time. They tend out pretty good considering I didn't finish though I HD used a semi gloss, now using flat and will finish with a satin clear.

The control arms are red, the compliance arms are yellow, I did them separate colors to emphasize they're different parts. My main reason for painting them was for rust protection anyway, I probably would have done the blue but I hadn't discovered the shade or bought it yet.

So, when getting the Energy Suspension bushings ready, I had no sleeves to fit in the shock mount bushing, the ones I had were too short. I thought perhaps I had mixed something up or lost them as I purchased the bushings a bit ago, had opened the boxes/bags to look at them and had them stored in a few different places. But, I had the exact number of sleeves I was expecting so I decided to call energy to see what was up.

Ring, ring, Hello, Energy Suspension?
...I'm waiting to hear "press one for sales, press two for support" or something. It didn't come, a human answered the phone in under 3 full rings, wasnt expecting that considering how popular/"big" energy seems. I expressed my shock, and continued to ask my question.

The rep was very patient as I bumble around my mess in the garage searching for a measuring tape and eventually confirmed that I did indeed have two incorrect sleeves. His very next questions were where/when I purchased, I answered telling him I got them at my local performance shop and it was a few months ago. His next question after that was what my name/address was so he could ship me replacement sleeves, 2-day priority shipping, at no cost to me. I told him I would probably go to the shop and exchange if I could but had him ship them just in case.

Called the shop to make sure they had them and then I went down and they gave me the right sleeves out of another kit. Pretty sure the sleeves were wrong in the 16.8102 kit, but it may have been the 16.3105. I believe there is 2 sleeves in each kit of the same dimension (if there's a difference it's only maybe 2mm in length, but I'm pretty sure the ES rep said they were the same). I could only find the receipt for the 16.3105 kit quick enough to make it before they closed so I got those. I'll have to triple check the sleeve size. The shop just opened another kit and gave them to me, when I asked if I could steal the lube (assuming it was going to get shipped back to ES) I was told that they would just order the right sleeves off ES, so instead i offered to bring in the ones ES is already shipping me to save them the trouble. He ended up giving me one of the tubs of grease anyway, yay.

I went home and put them in, they seem like 1mm or maybe 2 shorter than the bushing so I will triple check but I doubt it's an issue.

I took off the heatshield and all the nuts and bolts from the exhaust manifold and was surprised when it wouldn't drop, my exhaust is broken in the middle (just after the first joint after the O2 sensor) and only held together with sheet metal and hose clamps which has gotten louder since I did the fix. (Actually, I didn't, I went to a local car forums members house to use a welder, seemed like he didn't want me using his welder and went at it himself and that was the result, I didn't mind so much getting it welded by someone else but I didn't need someone else to throw together a shitty fix I could have done myself, but he was trying to help and I didn't want to be rude, besides it did make it quieter for a while). Again, I didn't feel like being on the ground today so I left it like that, will unbolt the rest tomorrow, sprayed it with pen lube too.

Then I moved onto the intake manifold. I didn't really want to take it off yet, but I don't see how I could install my endyne catch can kit without removing it or tearing my hair out. Plus I want to stop coolant going thru my TB and install a thermal gasket if I can, my IATs N/A usually are more than they should be, in fact I recall tuning my buddys turbo and (at least for cruising) it had lower IATs. Injen intake removed (still considering using it as part of my charge pipes, but I would probably need to block the nipple unless I use it for something else. Someone n/a would benefit more from its "dyno tested" performance anyway (it's for sale!). Fuel rail unbolted, injectors removed and all but the one hard to reach (from up top) bolt under the intake manifold are out.

I'm likely going to do the valve seals, timing belt, water pump and alternator belt while I'm at it or at least very soon, I can't have my car in this garage overnight long term, though once the front end is done I can leave it outside and bring it in during the day whIle I work, but that's assuming it's drivable or I have someone to help me push it.

I can't wait til it's all done. It's funny, driving my car it feels like my struts still have some life left but then I drive my other car (same year, color, just is an auto d series sedan) and feel the difference, holy crap. I guess we'll see how much bushings help, struts are on the list soon though I don't want to spend much on street suspension for this car, I'd rather put that towards rally-friendly suspension.

I still need to get a downpipe, dump tube and boost solenoid too. Weee.
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:06 PM
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Did some more work up top. Exhaust manifold is off. Turbo manifold and turbo is in place for fitment. Intercooler is bolted on, fits nicely so far. Piping fits mostly, ended up having to use the injen pipe to make it work. A few pipes have to be trimmed a few inches, but otherwise it seems to line up and I don't think I'll have to deal with moving the washer fluid resevoir.

The aluminum radiator I got seems like it's actually for a Civic, it fits 98%, the stock bracket on top will have to be modified or replaced but otherwise it fits, seems that even the fan bolts are in the right spots though the previous owner Zip-tied whatever fan they used to it.

Can't wait to finish!!
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:43 AM
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Default Re: Rally Hatch build thread

Originally Posted by eghatch9295
probably using the incorrect lugs if they're backing off. shitty quality shifters bend/snap.
This.
Old 10-26-2016, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by tony_2018
This.
Because the stock lugs are incorrect? No...
Old 10-26-2016, 11:52 AM
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In case anyone is curious, that's a 1979 Camara Z28 under the cover.
Old 10-27-2016, 03:50 PM
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Got the tie rods out, one broke free relatively easy after some pen lubing and right torque, tho the pen lube didn't even get to the threads. The passenger side I had to grind off! I luckily didn't **** the inner up.

Old axles out, new ones in. That's it for today. I need a 14mm Allen/hex tool to install the catch can.
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Old 10-27-2016, 11:40 PM
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It's not a Honda but it was still fun...never rode on a monster truck before..

WEEEE! Wish I could've drove...lol
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:27 PM
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Picked up my turbo gasket, a 5 bolt flange and two O2 bungs.. just need to pick up some pipe and a flex pipe and I'm going to tack together a downpipe and have a shop seal it up, I'd do it myself but all I have right now is a 110 stick.

Also found a 14mm Allen key for my block plugs for the endyn catch can.

I don't know if I've mentioned this but I plan on running a vacuum pump on the catch can eventually as well as tee'd into the brake booster, hopefully that way I wont ever run out of pedal clutchless twofooting..
Old 10-31-2016, 10:09 PM
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Got a T3 gasket, a 5-bolt flange, a piece of 2.5" flex pipe, a 2.5" U/J tube and 2 weld in O2 bungs.

Drained the oil, took one more nut off the intake manifold, lol. Didn't feel like crawling under tonight much, plus once I started the oil draining I wasn't gonna go under til done.

Pulled my sandwich plate off, I think I'm actually lacking a fitting for the oil feed, so I'm going to have to make yet another trip to the performance shop. Grabbed some vacuum tees today too.

Need to grab a solenoid still..ugh. So close!

Still gotta throw my control arms and knuckles on too. Can't wait to see the new rims on, try the new bushings and bigger brakes. Wee.
Old 11-01-2016, 06:17 AM
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Did... Did you rattle can paint the intercooler blue?


Edit: Nvm, found the message above.
Old 11-02-2016, 12:20 AM
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Lol nice edit I was about to quote myself.

The shade looks better IRL, I admit it looks kinda meh in the pic.

Oil feed fitting, boost solenoid tomorrow along with a bunch of working on stuff!
Old 11-04-2016, 11:19 PM
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Took IM off, took the two plugs out of the block and installed the two from the endyne kit.

Spent like 70 in intercooler fittings since I was a few short, got the wrong sizes have to exchange, doh.

Oil feed/drain is done. Switching to a copper line of my oil pressure gauge and put in an electrical sender on my spare port, I will use this for data logging.

Gotta find a spot to mount the can!
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Old 11-05-2016, 10:16 PM
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Endyn Catch can installed. Had a hard time finding a spot to mount but I found a place just in front of the brake MC, there was even a tapped hole there already.

Since I have an OBD2 block I didn't have to remove a breather box or plug anything.

I think I'm going to drill two -10 AN ports on my valve cover soon and tap them into the lines though usually it's done with a second can..

I'm also debating eliminating the drain back.

Intake manifold is back on (minus the bottom ones, will crawl under tomorrow), injectors back in.

Need to finish clamping the ic pipes and put the knuckles and control arms back on.. almost done!
Old 11-05-2016, 10:54 PM
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I also looped the coolant feed to the TB. It leaked on me before and my IM is always way too hot.

Not sure if I have to make block off plates? It doesn't seem so from what I saw on the coolant diagram I found.

Also replaced my rad hoses, the lower had a recirculation heater in it and it already has a block heater, plus the recirculation heater is rusted and looks fucked and the wire is messed.

New rad is in, need to make the mounting bracket fit better, this rad is slightly taller than stock though it seems to be for a civic, has mounts for the fan and a nub on top for the bracket.

Need to tee in my BOV still too..

Swee.
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Old 11-06-2016, 10:10 PM
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F**k.

So, I button up the engine as best I can and go to fire it up and...*spew*...fuel everywhere..I lost the damn o-ring for the fuel return..oops.

Pretty close though. Still have to throw my control arms and knuckles on and cut/tack my downpipe together. Found a nice little air manifold, gonna use it for vac lines stuff.

Hopefully I'll get to take it for a test drive tomorrow.
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:00 PM
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So I had a snag with the compliance brackets I got off an Integra being the type off an EK? It still doesn't make sense to me.. see thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-help-3288133/

Got my old compliance brackets off finally, and the bushings out. Took a break from that and started cutting my some pipe to make my downpipe. Couldn't find my welding rods so called it a night.

What's left, of this current job:
- cut, tack downpipe together including o2 bungs, will have an exhaust shop seal it up unless I can find a better welder to use (I has a 110v stick)
- put on bottom bolts for IM, torque them all.
- put on exhaust manifold bolts, torque.
- figure out my shifter issue (it wants to spin and it shouldn't.. its an eBay shortshit, maybe it took a dump, if so I'll put the stock on for now til I order the k-tuned shifter)
- try and figure out what caused my brakes to loose pressure just before I started this (gonna throw the new ones in and test..may use the ITR lines that came with the knuckles..depends what the issue was)
- install control arms, knuckles, hubs and wheels
- make/find a bracket for my rad as the stock one doesn't quite line up
- wire in my ECU switches and boost gain potentiometer.
- wire my LED washer squirters to right/left signals with a switch and some relay logic.. eg, I can turn them on or off, if they're on, it will blink off with the signal, if they're on, it blinks on..
- wire in the foot well lights I got, to door pins and bypass switch
- tune it

Close! O
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Old 11-10-2016, 09:17 AM
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Keep up the good work, dude.
Old 11-10-2016, 02:34 PM
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Default Re: Rally Hatch build thread

Originally Posted by CX-Adam


Keep up the good work, dude.
Thanks! Always appreciate positive comments, helps with motivation, especially when frustrated.

Just glanced over your thread, you should send your Dad up here to help me tackle my rust, lol..

I can rebuild just about any engine but never done any body work, and don't have much confidence in my abilities to do so, though I should since I do fiberglass enclosures and such.

Had to take the day off for errands and work tonight, wasn't planning on it but what can you do?

More soon.


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