timsch75

I'm replacing the clutch on my '95 ex that I got a few months ago. I've printed off a clutch replacement thread from this forum (http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=139802) for a '99, and have the factory manual for the '94, so I have a fair amount of info to go off of. I have some questions on why some things need to come off

1. why do the change rod and change extension need to come off? Both connect to housing that is not being removed and both writeups state that they should be removed.

2. both state that the driveshafts should be removed. I can understand the passengers side driveshaft, but why the drivers?

Do both of these have to do with reinstallation of the transmission, like internal parts cannot realign with these components still connected or something?

Also, I used a balljoint fork to remove the balljoints, which squeezed a fair amount of grease out of the boots. Can I pull these boots off, repack and then reinstall them? I didn't see any cuts or cracks. Thanks

t

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timsch75 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm replacing the clutch on my '95 ex that I got a few months ago. I've printed off a clutch replacement thread from this forum (http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=139802) for a '99, and have the factory manual for the '94, so I have a fair amount of info to go off of. I have some questions on why some things need to come off

1. why do the change rod and change extension need to come off? Both connect to housing that is not being removed and both writeups state that they should be removed.

2. both state that the driveshafts should be removed. I can understand the passengers side driveshaft, but why the drivers?

Do both of these have to do with reinstallation of the transmission, like internal parts cannot realign with these components still connected or something?

Also, I used a balljoint fork to remove the balljoints, which squeezed a fair amount of grease out of the boots. Can I pull these boots off, repack and then reinstall them? I didn't see any cuts or cracks. Thanks

t</TD></TR></TABLE>

The tranny must be lowered in order to change the clutch... You need to remove the shift linkage (not 'change rod') and the axles in order to do this. DO NOT pull the boots off. Using a pickle fork is NOT the correct way of seperating the lower balljoint.

.Kevin.

yes you can put new boots on or atleast you should be able to (you can on ep3's) and you dont have to take the shift linkage off unless u want to do extra work all i did was lower it and leave the trany rite under the car and left it all conected.... also for the axles you dont have to take them both off just pull them out of the trans and let me dangle anyone tells u otherwise their wrong because ive done this 5 times the same exact way and everything was fine..

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_CvC99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes you can put new boots on or atleast you should be able to (you can on ep3's) and you dont have to take the shift linkage off unless u want to do extra work all i did was lower it and leave the trany rite under the car and left it all conected.... also for the axles you dont have to take them both off just pull them out of the trans and let me dangle anyone tells u otherwise their wrong because ive done this 5 times the same exact way and everything was fine..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I should have known an oakie rigger would jump in to say that I was wrong. Look, can you shortcut crap? Sure... SHOULD you? no. Hanging the tranny off the axle is a good way to kill it. Dangling a tranny by the shift linkage is a good way to bend it. I supposed if you want to wind up with a jacked up shift linkage which could lead to grinding down the road and a messed up axle all because you couldn't take the extra 4 mins to disconnect them, thats your choice. When I do my tranny/clutch, i'll be doing it the right way. Do it right, do it once. Half *** it, do it again.... and again...... and again.

timsch75

Well, I won't be using the fork again, but what's done is done and I'm just wondering if I need new ball joints or if I can repack the boots assuming I didn't damage them. I guess I'll disconnect the shift linkage (change rod in the OEM manual) and change extension to be safe. It seems that only the bell housing comes down, but I suppose I'll find out otherwise tomorrow. I hope I don't fubar anything else. thanks

99CivicSiBrian

I've done these clutches. I would definately remove the axles and stabilizer bar, but the actuator rod has the bitch pin, so I dosconnect that from the shifter (in the 'tunnel area') so I don't f' it up. Definately don't use the pickle fork on the ball joint anymore. There's a little nub on the LCA that you can tap w/ a med sized hammer and the thing just pops apart! IT's awesome!
B

civic_in_LA

I have noticed that this topic tends to appear pretty often. Someone should do a nice write up with pictures and all.

I am going to be changing my tranny in about a month, I'll try to get my girlfriend to photograph the steps I take. I'm a newbie at dropping the tranny and changing the clutch, but Im sure if I do something wrong, ill get feedback on how to do it better.

timsch75

West Coast Style did an elaborate writeup that I referenced in my first post. The only issue I see with it is the use of the pickle fork, which someone later in that post recommended against. I'd seen it, but had the fork and have only my dumbass impatient self to blame for using it.

litterbox

This will help you tremendously:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

Pitman ball joint/tie rod seperater is your friend.

Looks like a c clamp bascially.

Costs $5 bucks from vatozone.

I use this everytime!!!

lifeofbean

The reason both axles need to come out is there's a bolt that's a bitch to get to unless the drivers side axle is out - plus the chance of breaking an axle.

Trust me, do it right the first time. A friend and I tried to take a bunch of "short cuts" that wound up in my clutch taking 10 hours instead of 6, we kept having to go back and do everything the right way.

We didn't seperate any ball joints, but we did unbolt the entire front suspension from the car.

litterbox

When I had to pull my tranny to find out why it wasn't going into gear properly, this is what I did.

1)Drain it
2)Disconnect all plugs on it
3)Put a jack under it
4)Attached my hoist to the side of the motor facing the tranny, to support it
5)Removed both axles and half shaft (you must pop out ball joints to do this)
6)Unbolted tranny
7)Wiggled it apart
8)Lowered tranny and slid it out from underneath the car

I did all that on a friday night by myself. Now, you'll need another set of hands when you wanna remount the tranny.

Serioulsy, this will change your life:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859</TD></TR></TABLE>

timsch75

I hope my wife's hands will count as a second pair. I'm sure a good time will be had by all when I try to put the tranny back on....