Questions about SAFC-II (possibly SAFC-I related)
#1
Questions about SAFC-II (possibly SAFC-I related)
Recently installed and working properly.
Im trying to finalize settings and need a little explanation on the setup.
Under the [etc] -> [sensor] menu you will find options to set 'in' and out' values for hotwire, flap, pressure, and karman. I know that somehow the value of 'PR-6' relates to these menu's and even determines how they will be setup but the apexi manual gives no explanation on this topic.
Could someone with this setup give me a little insight.
Thanks
Modified by thinkbrianthink v2 at 2:35 PM 5/11/2003
Im trying to finalize settings and need a little explanation on the setup.
Under the [etc] -> [sensor] menu you will find options to set 'in' and out' values for hotwire, flap, pressure, and karman. I know that somehow the value of 'PR-6' relates to these menu's and even determines how they will be setup but the apexi manual gives no explanation on this topic.
Could someone with this setup give me a little insight.
Thanks
Modified by thinkbrianthink v2 at 2:35 PM 5/11/2003
#2
Re: Questions about SAFC-II (thinkbrianthink v2)
You need them both set at 06. That manual sucks for any kind of explanation.
EDIT: Also you need to set it on Pressure.
EDIT: Also you need to set it on Pressure.
#3
Re: Questions about SAFC-II (Trial User)
both what set at 06?
there are four 'sensors' listed in that section:
1. hot wire
2. flap
3. pressure
4. karman
i cant access the karman menu but im not sure if that is relevant for a 2000 dx...
there are four 'sensors' listed in that section:
1. hot wire
2. flap
3. pressure
4. karman
i cant access the karman menu but im not sure if that is relevant for a 2000 dx...
#4
Re: Questions about SAFC-II (thinkbrianthink v2)
No no no. You can only set one of them. You need to select Pressure and set both of them at 06. Then leave that menu and nevAr come back!!
#6
Re: Questions about SAFC-II (thinkbrianthink v2)
This didnt work...
OK. Here is the situation.
I initially hooked up the SAFC and everything appeared to be working properly. I checked and double checked my connection before and after soldering everything in. The battery was disconnected while performing all soldering so i know that nothing was damaged during installation.
Well i crank the car up and it stumbles for a sec, the idle bounces, the check engine light comes on and the car begins to idle steadily around 1k. I figured this was due to the SAFC not being set properly for the car so i check my connections one more time and initialize the afc. Reset ECU. Restart car. Same thing.
So i figure its a new unit, its not going to be damaged. Maybe my connections are bad. So i pull the afc halfway so that the wiring is still installed but all i have in the car is the hook up harness. I find my pressure wires (the only one that is actually cut during installation) and terminate this connection with a short piece of wire. I reset the ECU and plug everything back up. So at this point wiring is setup as if nothing was ever installed in the car. I turn the key... BAM car cranks right up. No check engine light. Idles fine. Nothing wrong.
So does this sound like the SAFC unit is defective?
The unit itself turns on. I get an RPM reading. I get a throttle % reading. Display is not garbled in any way. The only thing that i noticed that seemed odd was that there appears to be no input two on the sensor display. I get an input one voltage and a throttle voltage, but no input 2.
OK. Here is the situation.
I initially hooked up the SAFC and everything appeared to be working properly. I checked and double checked my connection before and after soldering everything in. The battery was disconnected while performing all soldering so i know that nothing was damaged during installation.
Well i crank the car up and it stumbles for a sec, the idle bounces, the check engine light comes on and the car begins to idle steadily around 1k. I figured this was due to the SAFC not being set properly for the car so i check my connections one more time and initialize the afc. Reset ECU. Restart car. Same thing.
So i figure its a new unit, its not going to be damaged. Maybe my connections are bad. So i pull the afc halfway so that the wiring is still installed but all i have in the car is the hook up harness. I find my pressure wires (the only one that is actually cut during installation) and terminate this connection with a short piece of wire. I reset the ECU and plug everything back up. So at this point wiring is setup as if nothing was ever installed in the car. I turn the key... BAM car cranks right up. No check engine light. Idles fine. Nothing wrong.
So does this sound like the SAFC unit is defective?
The unit itself turns on. I get an RPM reading. I get a throttle % reading. Display is not garbled in any way. The only thing that i noticed that seemed odd was that there appears to be no input two on the sensor display. I get an input one voltage and a throttle voltage, but no input 2.
#7
Re: Questions about SAFC-II (thinkbrianthink v2)
You didn't initialize the FC after you set the settings up did you? When you initialize it sets everything back to factory setttings. Excuse me if I understood you wrong. It sounds like it might be dumping the fuel into your motor causing a cel. Make sure it keeps your settings after you have the car started.
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#9
Soo....
No one else has an inclination as to what the problem could be?
Has anyone in the forum installed their own v/s-afc?
I cant imagine that im just an idiot and have no clue what im doing.
No one else has an inclination as to what the problem could be?
Has anyone in the forum installed their own v/s-afc?
I cant imagine that im just an idiot and have no clue what im doing.
#13
Heh. Seriously. Not that you havent helped me but i figured at least a few ppl would have jumped in by now. I guess 'look at my...' and 'help me pick out...' posts are more important.
The setup is pretty simple. Its just a 2000 dx. Stock motor. y8 intake manifold. Intake. Nothing more.
In the SAFC the setup is pretty simple. To my knowledge you only have to set the type of car (4cyl) and then these sensor settings that i keep referring back to. The only indication in the Apexi manual about how to set these settings is the value of [pr-6] that it lists for most (if not all) hondas.
The more I think about it, im lead to believe that the unit is bad. If I take the unit out of the equation and set the wiring back to 'stock' then everything is fine. But once i put the SAFC back into the loop the car acts as if its not getting a pressure signal.
Come on guys. Is there anything else i can do?
The setup is pretty simple. Its just a 2000 dx. Stock motor. y8 intake manifold. Intake. Nothing more.
In the SAFC the setup is pretty simple. To my knowledge you only have to set the type of car (4cyl) and then these sensor settings that i keep referring back to. The only indication in the Apexi manual about how to set these settings is the value of [pr-6] that it lists for most (if not all) hondas.
The more I think about it, im lead to believe that the unit is bad. If I take the unit out of the equation and set the wiring back to 'stock' then everything is fine. But once i put the SAFC back into the loop the car acts as if its not getting a pressure signal.
Come on guys. Is there anything else i can do?
#14
Re: (thinkbrianthink v2)
Ok, one last try. You do have the "car select set on "4 cylinder" and the other one on "/" pointing up, right? Other than that I would have to say it is a bad unit which doesn't surprise me at all. Mine has been flashing on and off and its almost brand new. POS. It still seems to work when its flashing, but it doesn't make me feel all warm and cozy inside.
Anyways bump ttt and hope you get it fixed.
Anyways bump ttt and hope you get it fixed.
#15
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Re: (thinkbrianthink v2)
if i recall correctly, with the SAFC 1, you have to cut the MAP wires and have MAP in and MAP out... on the Fields its called SFC in and SFC out... But you say there was only 1 wire for the a/f (MAP)?
#16
Re: (ScrapinSi)
Yes. You cut the wire coming from the ecu and connect the yellow wire to the ecu side and the white wire to the map sensor side.
One more question, You did follow the instructions and put the brown and black wires on the ecu ground so that the brown wire is closer to the ecu, right?
One more question, You did follow the instructions and put the brown and black wires on the ecu ground so that the brown wire is closer to the ecu, right?
#17
Re: (Trial User)
Trial: Yes. i put it to 4cyl throttle rising (/) not (\).
Scrap: Yes. The map wire is the only wire that you actually cut, while the rest are just tapped.
Trial: Yes. Brown is closer to the ECU with about an INCH between brown and black.
I will also double check all of these because anyone can make a mistake.
Scrap: Yes. The map wire is the only wire that you actually cut, while the rest are just tapped.
Trial: Yes. Brown is closer to the ECU with about an INCH between brown and black.
I will also double check all of these because anyone can make a mistake.
#20
Re: (thinkbrianthink v2)
Code 3 for map sensor malfunction. I know the Sensor is ok though. I think i mentioned it earlier but just to make sure ive done everything i can, Ill explain my troubleshooting again...
With ANY [ANY] (ANY) settings in the AFC I can clear the ECU and set the ingnition to on. CEL comes on and goes off as normal. Then i try to crank the car it stumbles and then the CEL comes on ('limp' mode). The car then begins to idle right around 1k.
If i REMOVE the SAFC and LEAVE the wiring in the car i can terminate the map signal by using a small piece of solder as a jumper between the yellow and white wire on the halfway connection for the AFC. Then clear the ECU and repeat the cranking process. Boom. Starts right up no map signal. This means...
1. The ecu and motor (all attached sensors) are functioning.
2. My SAFC wiring is ok, or else the solder wouldnt work as a jumper to bridge the cut map wire.
Im pretty sure this is a bad unit now.
Id like to take this time to thank Trial and Scrap for their suggestions and to say that im seriously disappointed in honda-tech. I thought for a few minutes about what forum to put this in. I decided that it would be best in the Civic forum (even though its about the AFC) since its installed on my car (00 civic).
After 283 views there were only 19 posts. OVER half of which were my own.
It might sound like im whining but i seriously expected more of a response to a legitimate dilema.
With ANY [ANY] (ANY) settings in the AFC I can clear the ECU and set the ingnition to on. CEL comes on and goes off as normal. Then i try to crank the car it stumbles and then the CEL comes on ('limp' mode). The car then begins to idle right around 1k.
If i REMOVE the SAFC and LEAVE the wiring in the car i can terminate the map signal by using a small piece of solder as a jumper between the yellow and white wire on the halfway connection for the AFC. Then clear the ECU and repeat the cranking process. Boom. Starts right up no map signal. This means...
1. The ecu and motor (all attached sensors) are functioning.
2. My SAFC wiring is ok, or else the solder wouldnt work as a jumper to bridge the cut map wire.
Im pretty sure this is a bad unit now.
Id like to take this time to thank Trial and Scrap for their suggestions and to say that im seriously disappointed in honda-tech. I thought for a few minutes about what forum to put this in. I decided that it would be best in the Civic forum (even though its about the AFC) since its installed on my car (00 civic).
After 283 views there were only 19 posts. OVER half of which were my own.
It might sound like im whining but i seriously expected more of a response to a legitimate dilema.
#21
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Re: (thinkbrianthink v2)
in my findings you are more likely to get better replys at around 5:00 pm, when a lot of people that are knowlageable about this type of thing get off work. of coarse this isn't always the case as scrap and trial were here to help. try bumping it later on.
hmm just saw that this has been going on for a little while now, including a good time. oh well. try calling a shop and asking them for help, often times they are more than willing to help for free, but no always. it seems to be a small prob so they should help ya for free. worth a try
hmm just saw that this has been going on for a little while now, including a good time. oh well. try calling a shop and asking them for help, often times they are more than willing to help for free, but no always. it seems to be a small prob so they should help ya for free. worth a try
#22
Re: (tek_civic)
Yeah, this is day #4 for this. I'm going to have to agree with the unit being faulty. I have only received a code when I had the settings too rivh and hit too much boost. It threw a cel 3 of course. I couldn't see any other reason for his problem. I hope it can be brought back for a refund or replacement.
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