Questions about rebuilding D16Z6 with 120K miles
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Questions about rebuilding D16Z6 with 120K miles
Alright here is the deal,
My buddy has a Ek with a y7 in it. He was wanting to make it a little quicker so I found a z6 for dirt cheap with around 120k on it. He wants to make sure the motor is going to last a while so he can play with it for a while and then sell it. (But wants to do it the most effective but cheapest way.) I have had a few motors built by shops but have never really just rebuilt one by myself.. Thats why I'm about to ask some questions that may sound stupid but just try bear with me, Plz keep all negativity out of the thread.
We got the motor and tonight I pulled the head off of it and the cylinder walls look fine. As far as I can tell they don't need bored over. (He wants to keep the internals. Pistons,Rods,Crank.) I havnt pulled the pan off yet so I don't know what condition the rods and crank are in.. Im sure they are fine. (The engine was pulled from a running car)
I have new main and rod bearings, (They are standard size) If the old bearings look fine can I just swap them out with the new ones? What are some signs that I may need to take it to the machine shop?
Will I be alright not changing the piston rings? The guy said it had newer rings in it. But you know how that goes...
What else should I check while I have everything apart?
Thanks for your help.
My buddy has a Ek with a y7 in it. He was wanting to make it a little quicker so I found a z6 for dirt cheap with around 120k on it. He wants to make sure the motor is going to last a while so he can play with it for a while and then sell it. (But wants to do it the most effective but cheapest way.) I have had a few motors built by shops but have never really just rebuilt one by myself.. Thats why I'm about to ask some questions that may sound stupid but just try bear with me, Plz keep all negativity out of the thread.
We got the motor and tonight I pulled the head off of it and the cylinder walls look fine. As far as I can tell they don't need bored over. (He wants to keep the internals. Pistons,Rods,Crank.) I havnt pulled the pan off yet so I don't know what condition the rods and crank are in.. Im sure they are fine. (The engine was pulled from a running car)
I have new main and rod bearings, (They are standard size) If the old bearings look fine can I just swap them out with the new ones? What are some signs that I may need to take it to the machine shop?
Will I be alright not changing the piston rings? The guy said it had newer rings in it. But you know how that goes...
What else should I check while I have everything apart?
Thanks for your help.
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Re: Ek swap questions..
your going to have to measure your bore on your cylinders they may look ok but doesnt mean they are. if its fine and not making noises why pull the bottom end apart it just ends up costing money. if you do pull the main caps off and the rod caps look for scoring on the crank if there is best bet get the journals measure up and if they are within spec get it polished
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Re: Ek swap questions..
your going to have to measure your bore on your cylinders they may look ok but doesnt mean they are. if its fine and not making noises why pull the bottom end apart it just ends up costing money. if you do pull the main caps off and the rod caps look for scoring on the crank if there is best bet get the journals measure up and if they are within spec get it polished
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Re: Questions about rebuilding D16Z6 with 120K miles
Dont just throw new bearing on it. If your gonna take it all apart it needs to be machined again...
#7
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Re: Questions about rebuilding D16Z6 with 120K miles
buy a chilton manual,and you need to PLASTI-GAUGE your rod and main journals and buy bearings in THOSE measurements for replacement.
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Re: Questions about rebuilding D16Z6 with 120K miles
While you have it apart I would definitely check the bearing clearances. With 120k you should be good just depends on how it was treated and if it got regular oil changes or not. I would probably reuse everything but use all new seals and gaskets because if he thinks that he is going to sell it down the road I wouldn't want to invest a whole lot of money into it.
The z6 is better due to having 2 oiling holes on the crank so typically the bottom ends are better due to the extra oiling of the main bearings whereas honda gave the y series only 1 hole to lubricate them. I have 185k+ on my 97 hx w/ y5 and still runs great and uses very little oil if any.
The z6 is better due to having 2 oiling holes on the crank so typically the bottom ends are better due to the extra oiling of the main bearings whereas honda gave the y series only 1 hole to lubricate them. I have 185k+ on my 97 hx w/ y5 and still runs great and uses very little oil if any.
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