GP02A

Hello all:

I am wondering what front strut bar u guys r using in order to have an easy access to the ajustable knock of the koni yellow in your eg.
I search before and what I know is that it is difficult to reach that knock connection w/ the gsr strut bar. Anyone can confirm that?
thanks

GP02A

life sux die

Spoon

h22John

Neuspeed 4point.....................John

hayabusa160

type r or the type r style one works

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22John &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Neuspeed 4point.....................John</TD></TR></TABLE>

definetely
I'm using the one for EK's cuz it mounts directly to the strut mount bolts,
instead over lower on the frame.

you have to move your wiring harness down alil on one side tho(which is why they made the EG one different i'm guessing).

good bar though, solid, rigid, one piece design,
simple, and looks good.

oh and it wont cover up your adjustment bolt at all.

frostcivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hayabusa160 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">type r or the type r style one works </TD></TR></TABLE>

GP02A

hello all:

thanks for the reply.

I am wonder if there anyone out there is using cusco type MT?

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GP02A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hello all:

thanks for the reply.

I am wonder if there anyone out there is using cusco type MT?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

that looks like a jointed bar, IE it has a pivot in it.

any bar with a pivot point, no matter how expensive, or shiny, or cool looking,
or if it has a "mugen/cusco/tein/spoon/etc" label on it, is going to be LESS effective than a $50 solid piece bar

I believe carbing is the only bar I have seen that is a single piece that connects to the firewall also, and doesnt run over the top of your strut mounts.
it looks heavy as **** though, and actually does have clearance problems with some strut mount devices like the tein edfc.

again, I recommend the neuspeed EK bar.

Dengar

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22John &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Neuspeed 4point.....................John</TD></TR></TABLE>

Neuspeed 4point....................Matt, too

SkyeC

i have a gsr bar. works fine. probably wouldn't work with extended strut tops unless you dremel off a little, though.

h22John

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that looks like a jointed bar, IE it has a pivot in it.

any bar with a pivot point, no matter how expensive, or shiny, or cool looking,
or if it has a "mugen/cusco/tein/spoon/etc" label on it, is going to be LESS effective than a $50 solid piece bar

I believe carbing is the only bar I have seen that is a single piece that connects to the firewall also, and doesnt run over the top of your strut mounts.
it looks heavy as **** though, and actually does have clearance problems with some strut mount devices like the tein edfc.

again, I recommend the neuspeed EK bar.</TD></TR></TABLE> The benen bar is pretty nice isnt it? 3 point to the firewall?no pivots?
don't think it'd work on my h22 though................John

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22John &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The benen bar is pretty nice isnt it? 3 point to the firewall?no pivots?
don't think it'd work on my h22 though................John</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it is verrryy nice,
looks great too.

BUT its not perfect, I wouldn't use it personally, because it doesn't mount directly to the
strut mount bolts. IMO thats the best place for a strut bar..
now theres probably very little difference actually, especially no noticeable difference..
but i'm just picky like that.

also by mounting up higher, it runs directly over the strut mounts,
so if you have extended mounts like I do, this could be a problem.

which is kinda wierd cuz benen is the one who made my extended mounts, haha.

GP02A

hello all:

thanks all for the reply.

Tad- is that pivots a welded connection? what exactly "one piece" mean? I thought as long as there's no joint, movable connection .... is a one piece.... or did I miss something in the pic?

GP02A

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GP02A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hello all:

thanks all for the reply.

Tad- is that pivots a welded connection? what exactly "one piece" mean? I thought as long as there's no joint, movable connection .... is a one piece.... or did I miss something in the pic?

GP02A</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, no joint or moveable connection,

I suppose 1piece is a bad description cuz there are multiple piece bars that function as 1piece(like typeR style bars)

GP02A

oh... even type R style consider as 1 piece?

I thought this carbing type 1 is one of the one piece kind.

https://passwordjdm.com/shop_i...K.jpg

seems like it work w/ the koni yellow too...

GP02A

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GP02A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh... even type R style consider as 1 piece?

I thought this carbing type 1 is one of the one piece kind.

https://passwordjdm.com/shop_i...K.jpg

seems like it work w/ the koni yellow too...

GP02A
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah that carbing bar is cool.
looks kinda heavy 2me tho.. but who knows.

and yeah well.. the typeR style is technically 11pieces.. 3 pieces held together with bolts nuts and washers, heh.

but it functions as one piece.. thats what matters.