Question: Do I need a ball joint remover?
#1
Question: Do I need a ball joint remover?
Im trying to install a front skunk2 camber kit on my EK, and have all the bolts off, but cant get the upper ball joint seperated from the knuckle...any tips / tricks or is the only solution a ball joint remover?
#2
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keep the OEM A arm connected to your car. Remove the nut on the ball joint and disconnect your shock assembly from the axel. Take a metal hammer and start whacking as hard as you can where the ball joint meets the knuckle. Hit the knuckle, not the A arm. It eventually pops right out. I'm not kidding, that's what you're supposed to do.
#3
Re: Question: Do I need a ball joint remover? (sk8shorty012)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sk8shorty012 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im trying to install a front skunk2 camber kit on my EK, and have all the bolts off, but cant get the upper ball joint seperated from the knuckle...any tips / tricks or is the only solution a ball joint remover?</TD></TR></TABLE>
is it just spinning or will the bolt simply not come out?
is it just spinning or will the bolt simply not come out?
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Re: (pdiggitydogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">youre replacing the joint, so the safety of the stud's threads arent a factor......whack the bottom of the stud with a hammer and pop it out </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hell yea
Hell yea
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#8
Re: (jtchinoy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jtchinoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep the OEM A arm connected to your car. Remove the nut on the ball joint and disconnect your shock assembly from the axel. Take a metal hammer and start whacking as hard as you can where the ball joint meets the knuckle. Hit the knuckle, not the A arm. It eventually pops right out. I'm not kidding, that's what you're supposed to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you sir are a God. worked flawlessly.
you sir are a God. worked flawlessly.
#9
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Yeah, I had to figure out after 5 minutes of whacking with a rubber hammer, it had to be a metal hammer Now take your car to the shop to get an allignment Tighten all your nuts and bolts, you might get alotta thuds and creaking noises otherwise.
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Re: (JCracer723)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have one that looks identical to the one at the top left of this pic. it cost 100$ but it is mint. It even said it was made for import balljoints. that center pivot is essential imo. it is a little long for the upper a-arm joints, but hasn't failed me yet.
d
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have one that looks identical to the one at the top left of this pic. it cost 100$ but it is mint. It even said it was made for import balljoints. that center pivot is essential imo. it is a little long for the upper a-arm joints, but hasn't failed me yet.
d
#13
Re: Question: Do I need a ball joint remover? (hondakidn06)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondakidn06 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the wacking apply for lower ball joints too?</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct.
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