FloridaCivic

After driving for a while and the car warms up the idle is at 8-900rpm which is normal. But sometimes it will drop to 6-700rpm.... is that normal? And also after doing the driving, if i run into a store and then come back out and start car and put it into drive it sounds like it wants to stall out....but doesnt. Any help with this? It's a 94 civic with a automattic b16asir2 in it

FloridaCivic

bump anyone?

MiX

I would adjust that screw above the throttle body just a bit, should fix your problem.

FloridaCivic

when the screw turns right what does it do and when the screw turns left what does it do?

I should also add that i recently installed a new radiator and cleaned out my iacv screen

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FloridaCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when the screw turns right what does it do and when the screw turns left what does it do?

I should also add that i recently installed a new radiator and cleaned out my iacv screen</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm pretty sure loosening it raises the idle and tightening it lowers it. Though I'm not positive.

Adjust idle by adjusting the throttle cable ftw!! (I haven't had much luck with my idle screw)

FloridaCivic

ok be more specific how the heck you adjust the throttle cable? im off to sleep now so ill check this in the am

schardbody

omg please do not touch the air mixture screw on the throttle body, they are calibrated at the factory and NEVER need readjusted, ever wonder why they covered them and painted it so they would know if it was tampered with???

your car should idle at 650rpm in drive once its fully warm. it probably just sounds like it wants to stall because you arent used to it idling that low, even though i agree they should have the idle set around 750 to smooth it out, they set it lower for fuel efficiency, noise level, and emissions reasons.

one thing, as the car get more miles on it the throttle stop wears and the blade can close a little further than factory setting, you CAN adjust this screw up a little to raise the idle, its the one under the throttle cable rotor. DO NOT adjust the throttle cable to raise idle. the throttle cable should have slack in it when the throttle is closed.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">omg please do not touch the air mixture screw on the throttle body, they are calibrated at the factory and NEVER need readjusted, ever wonder why they covered them and painted it so they would know if it was tampered with???

your car should idle at 650rpm in drive once its fully warm. it probably just sounds like it wants to stall because you arent used to it idling that low, even though i agree they should have the idle set around 750 to smooth it out, they set it lower for fuel efficiency, noise level, and emissions reasons.

one thing, as the car get more miles on it the throttle stop wears and the blade can close a little further than factory setting, you CAN adjust this screw up a little to raise the idle, its the one under the throttle cable rotor. DO NOT adjust the throttle cable to raise idle. the throttle cable should have slack in it when the throttle is closed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, he was talking about the idle screw .

PS don't go anywhere I g2 talk to u.

FloridaCivic

bump

hondamark35

first, that's not the "mixture" screw... unless you have a carb. it's the ldle screw and it needs to be adjusted regularly at service intervals par honda. the "honda bond" covering the screw from the factory is so that only mechanics or someone who knows what they are doing messes with it.

as for fixing your idle, there is a more complicated way to do it but, turning it in clockwise will "tighten" the screw closing the passageway and lowering the idle. you want to give it about a quarter turn counter clockwise, and no more than half a turn.

hope that helps.

schardbody

oh damn, i did say mixture didnt i, what i meant was air bleed screw. and it STILL SHOULD NOT BE TOUCHED. THERE ARE OTHER IDLE SCREWS TO BE ADJUSTED, THIS IS NOT ONE OF THOSE. THIS SCREW IS CALIBRATED FROM THE FACTORY AND AS LONG AS THE FITV AND EACV ARE WORKING AND THE THROTTLE STOP SCREW IS ADJUSTED PROPERLY IT WILL never EVER need ADJUSTED.