FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

So i blew my engine a couple weeks ago and I just got the warranty company to cut me a check for $4.8k.
The shop that im going through sez I have 3 options:
they can go through their jdm source and get me a 97 or newer b18c for $3200 but it will cost about $600-$800 to make it C.A.R.B. legal. They typically have 30-40k miles on them.
or
I can buy an engine from a guy who works at the shop. His is Usdm and is off a 96 GSR but the block is brand new w/ 20k miles on the car itself. The guy claims that his block was covered under some warranty. He's selling it high because of the low milage @ $4k
or
I can buy a B16 off one of their customers for $2.5k that has 68k miles on it.

My questions are:
1)what do you guys recommend?
2)is there a way to read the block of a JDM to make sure I've got a 97 or newer b18c?
3)Is there a way to read the block to make sure someone didnt give me the switcheroo or the wrong year?
4)How much can one typically find a timingbelt cover, crankshaft pulley, crank angle sensor, oil pump, intake mani and P72 ecu (all the parts i need to make the JDM swap legal) on HT?
5)The worker at the shop says there's no VIN on his block because it is new. Is that true and could there be another VIN on the engine/tranny?

My personal opinion is the JDM B18c b/c the Usdm having it's block replaced after only 20k miles gives me the creeps and having a B16 would probably leave me wanting a tad bit more....but i want to see if theres anything i might of not thought of or maybe you guys know something i dont.

jameskersten1

I would stay away from the b16 if i had the choice. It would be a toss about between the 2 b18's, just depends on how comfortable you are with either.

TheNasty0ne

CARB Legal.... easy choice in my opinion..

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkAnK_aSS_BRyAn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CARB Legal.... easy choice in my opinion..</TD></TR></TABLE>


If they garentee CARB legal do it! Your in cali dont forget that.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


If they garentee CARB legal do it! Your in cali dont forget that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya they pretty much guarantee it. They did a 94 B18c swap into a 91 hatch and i saw the sticker. They said it went straight from their shop to the B.A.R. rep. It seems like they know what they're doing with JDM stuff because they're a big JDM dealer (spoon, toda)

also, do you guys have any info on questions 2-4?

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Jdm b18c..

Then get you a nice intake manifold, and some other little stuff and you'll have a stout *** motor..

goodluck

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FuNkDrSpOt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My questions are:
2)is there a way to read the block of a JDM to make sure I've got a 97 or newer b18c?
3)Is there a way to read the block to make sure someone didnt give me the switcheroo or the wrong year?
4)How much can one typically find a timingbelt cover, crankshaft pulley, crank angle sensor, oil pump, intake mani and P72 ecu (all the parts i need to make the JDM swap legal) on HT?
5)The worker at the shop says there's no VIN on his block because it is new. Is that true and could there be another VIN on the engine/tranny?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Newer blocks have VIN numbers on them, number 5 is incorrect. I just dont know what year they started it.

Incase if theres no vin look at the serial number. The first number tells the year. Example.

D15B7
2203252

thats my old D series Engine block number. The First number 2 indicates it was a 93 block. It goes by production. First B7 block came out in 92 in the DX hatchback. 93 is the 2nd year (which gives you the 2)

The GSR production started in 93 i believe. So for 97 you should see a 5. If you see 5 or up you know its 97 and up. Thats the way i learned it and its been proven with other motors i looked at. The other numbers after the first are the ID/VIN


For number 4 question you dont need to change any of that but the P72. And they should take care of that for you since they insured it to pass bar. You shouldnt worry about anything.

TheNasty0ne

Listen to Luserkid...he knows...

blaster834

stick to the b16. best bang for the buck

kaoss_11

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaster834 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stick to the b16. best bang for the buck</TD></TR></TABLE>
giggling at the thought of how mad he would be when he got it .

TheNasty0ne

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaster834 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stick to the b16. best bang for the buck</TD></TR></TABLE>

....Id rather have a LS non vtec then a b16... torque owns

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Newer blocks have VIN numbers on them, number 5 is incorrect. I just dont know what year they started it.

Incase if theres no vin look at the serial number. The first number tells the year. Example.

D15B7
2203252

thats my old D series Engine block number. The First number 2 indicates it was a 93 block. It goes by production. First B7 block came out in 92 in the DX hatchback. 93 is the 2nd year (which gives you the 2)

The GSR production started in 93 i believe. So for 97 you should see a 5. If you see 5 or up you know its 97 and up. Thats the way i learned it and its been proven with other motors i looked at. The other numbers after the first are the ID/VIN


For number 4 question you dont need to change any of that but the P72. And they should take care of that for you since they insured it to pass bar. You shouldnt worry about anything. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well your avatar scares me so ill just believe whatever you say . j/k, So basically i should see a '5' as the first digit on the B18c block whether its a JDM or USDM....and all i should need is a new ecu? I was told by the shop that i needed a crankpulley because the JDM doesnt have a crank angle pulley and the same goes for the oil pump, timing belt cover and intake manifold because it doesnt have something that i need to make it USDM spec. They guaranteed that i could get B.A.R.'ed but if i search for the other parts it'll cost a lot less.

Can anyone verify that all i need on a Jdm b18c swap is just the USDM P72 ecu to make it B.A.R.'able?

Luserkid

There telling you to get way to many things. What you need for sure is all the sensors and make it to US specs. Crank pully has nothing to do with the crank angle sensor. That sensor just chills right where the timing belt goes and its under the timing belt cover. It goes on with 1 or 2 bolts i cant remember. Weither or not JDM motors have that i dont know, mines OBD1 not OBD2, so you might have to change the cover but i dont see why yours wouldnt have one already.

What was your motor you had before anyway and whats the car? I got my JDM motor on by using all my D series sensors on the motor. Then i got a USDM ecu, carb intake and carb header and i was set.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There telling you to get way to many things. What you need for sure is all the sensors and make it to US specs. Crank pully has nothing to do with the crank angle sensor. That sensor just chills right where the timing belt goes and its under the timing belt cover. It goes on with 1 or 2 bolts i cant remember. Weither or not JDM motors have that i dont know, mines OBD1 not OBD2, so you might have to change the cover but i dont see why yours wouldnt have one already.

What was your motor you had before anyway and whats the car? I got my JDM motor on by using all my D series sensors on the motor. Then i got a USDM ecu, carb intake and carb header and i was set. </TD></TR></TABLE>

97' ex civic - D16y8. And were you set to drive or set to B.A.R. your car? They said the engine would come with everythign needed to drive the car out of the shop but not everything to B.A.R. it.

maybe i should make a thread about B.A.R.'ing a 97 JDM b18c so i can get some people to verify everything for me.

Earthworm Jim

Do a search and in the long run get whatever you feel necessary.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheGeneral &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do a search and in the long run get whatever you feel necessary. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thank you for contributing absolutely dick to the thread. Isnt one of the rules of the board NOT TO TELL PEOPLE TO DO A SEARCH IF THATS ALL YOU HAVE TO SAY?! Becides, i did but i wanted to verify this with others who might have gotten their car B.A.R.'ed and i wanted other enthusiasts opinions, not 'do a search and do whatever you feel'.

Ur friggin useless

Luserkid

If your car is able to drive and doesnt throw a code with a virgin USDM ecu then youll pass BAR no problem. Any sensor you need take it off the y8, those guys should know what there doing, BAR is overrated to scare people

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your car is able to drive and doesnt throw a code with a virgin USDM ecu then youll pass BAR no problem. Any sensor you need take it off the y8, those guys should know what there doing, BAR is overrated to scare people </TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate your expertise Luser. Thank you. My only thing that makes me think it was easier for you than it is for me is that your OBDI while im OBDII. Basically this FAQ

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=906684 – Converting JDM Motor to US Specs

confirms that either im going to have to get a 99 b18c1 or part this crap out. ARG!.....maybe i can save some money by dropping the motor myself if they let me borrow an engine hoist.....