putting springs on, am i going to run into trouble?
03-01-2008, 08:47 PM
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putting springs on, am i going to run into trouble?
how many people on here have run into some serious problems with frozen bolts, the car is a 95 so its got some miles on it. I am doing the springs soon on my car but i don;t want to do it at my house unless its pretty certian that im going to run into some broken bolts, if so then i will do it at a friends with some more tools. thanks for any input.
03-01-2008, 08:56 PM
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Re: putting springs on, am i going to run into trouble? (fitbmx86)
spray down everything a day ahead with a penitrating oil or something to loosen them up a bit
03-01-2008, 08:58 PM
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Lots of PB blaster. I never had any problems with seized bolts on the suspension, although, i did run into lots of fun situations with replacing lower control arms.
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03-02-2008, 10:07 AM
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seriously, if its a stock civic and its been up north for that long i would just go ahead and buy new lca's before you snap bolts..
whatever bushings in there are probably shot anyway.
whatever bushings in there are probably shot anyway.
03-02-2008, 04:50 PM
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Re: (fitbmx86)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fitbmx86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so get entire new lower control arms? how much do they usually go for.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ebay. $75ish. Or hondaautomotiveparts.com $110ish.
Clock them or the bushings will tear. Use a little anti seize on the bolts on re-assembly.
If you have to replace bolts, get the real genuine honda (or alike) suspension grade bolts.
You can also burn out the LCA bushings, chop the shocks off or bolts off or whatever. Slash and burn. Then use polyurethane bushings. You dont have to clock poly. bushings. This will be the cheapest, but most messy method. Prepare to invent a swear word.
Ebay. $75ish. Or hondaautomotiveparts.com $110ish.
Clock them or the bushings will tear. Use a little anti seize on the bolts on re-assembly.
If you have to replace bolts, get the real genuine honda (or alike) suspension grade bolts.
You can also burn out the LCA bushings, chop the shocks off or bolts off or whatever. Slash and burn. Then use polyurethane bushings. You dont have to clock poly. bushings. This will be the cheapest, but most messy method. Prepare to invent a swear word.
03-02-2008, 07:50 PM
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sorry im a little lost by what you are saying... what does it mean to clock them? i think im going to pick up some skunk 2 or blox LCA's will they come with bolts or should i take a ride down to my local honda parts dealer and grab some.
03-02-2008, 10:55 PM
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Re: (fitbmx86)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fitbmx86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry im a little lost by what you are saying... what does it mean to clock them? i think im going to pick up some skunk 2 or blox LCA's will they come with bolts or should i take a ride down to my local honda parts dealer and grab some.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com Wholsale FTW.
Clocking bushings:
You have to tighten the bushing bolts at ride height. This means you will have to loosen bolts that may have nothing to do with lowering the car. The affected joints are:
-Rear LCA to shock
-Rear LCA to chassis
-Rear LCA to trailing arm
-Front LCA to chassis
-Front LCA to shock
-Front UCA to chassis
Once you're done with your install, and you have a ride height set, put the car back on jackstands, take the wheels back off. Loosen all the bolts of the affected joints listed above. Jack up each corner's LCA (near the balljoint in the front, near the trailing arm in the rear). Jack it up till the car comes up off the jackstand in that corner. Then tighten all the bolts on that corner for the affected joint(s) listed above.
I keep forgetting to PM a mod to try to make it a sticky'd topic.
If you dont clock them, they will tear. OEM bushings take a while to tear. Aftermarket rubber bushings like the ones in aftermarket LCAs will take about a week to tear.
OEM quality > aftermarket quality almost always. The website adress that I linked you to above will have great prices on bolts and factory LCAs should the need arise to buy an LCA(s).
The aftermarket LCAs look pretty and are a little cheaper, HOWEVER.... factory rubber bushings are about 100 billion times better than the aftermarket rubber bushings.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com Wholsale FTW.
Clocking bushings:
You have to tighten the bushing bolts at ride height. This means you will have to loosen bolts that may have nothing to do with lowering the car. The affected joints are:
-Rear LCA to shock
-Rear LCA to chassis
-Rear LCA to trailing arm
-Front LCA to chassis
-Front LCA to shock
-Front UCA to chassis
Once you're done with your install, and you have a ride height set, put the car back on jackstands, take the wheels back off. Loosen all the bolts of the affected joints listed above. Jack up each corner's LCA (near the balljoint in the front, near the trailing arm in the rear). Jack it up till the car comes up off the jackstand in that corner. Then tighten all the bolts on that corner for the affected joint(s) listed above.
I keep forgetting to PM a mod to try to make it a sticky'd topic.
If you dont clock them, they will tear. OEM bushings take a while to tear. Aftermarket rubber bushings like the ones in aftermarket LCAs will take about a week to tear.
OEM quality > aftermarket quality almost always. The website adress that I linked you to above will have great prices on bolts and factory LCAs should the need arise to buy an LCA(s).
The aftermarket LCAs look pretty and are a little cheaper, HOWEVER.... factory rubber bushings are about 100 billion times better than the aftermarket rubber bushings.
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