Sassafrass

I'm gonna be storing my car for winter, whats the proper way to do so?

Tomek

Put it up on jackstands, add in fuel stablizer, drain the oil, and disconnect the battery. Also, Its actually better to have a full tank of gas to prevent condensation from what Ive read here.

Mar_DC2

i'd drain the coolant too.

HXMan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Btown_99Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd drain the coolant too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be dumb and pointless.

Mar_DC2

i have friends who's radiator hoses rotted after they stored their cars. i dunno if it's because they didn't drain the coolant, or if they were just old hoses, but i'd rather be safe than sorry.

HXMan

With all the anti corrossives in the coolant it is better off to leave it in.

Plus the coolant will prevent rusting of the cooling passages in the engine.

jlv55

you should definately drain the coolant. ask anyone who actually knows what they are talking about, and they will tell you to do that. dont listen to people who have OPINIONS, get the facts.

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by middleman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should definately drain the coolant. ask anyone who actually knows what they are talking about, and they will tell you to do that. dont listen to people who have OPINIONS, get the facts.</TD></TR></TABLE>


please post your FACTS then .

What kind of climate is it going to be stored in?

but deffinately do as stated above. I have NEVER had problems leaving the PROPER mixture of water/coolant in my car for long periods of time.

I even bought a car once that sat for 7 years....no problems with the internals even though coolant was left in the car. This was in Spokane, where there's 0 degree winters and 100 degree summers.

Put in the lowest octane rating your ca can handle also, with fuel stabilizer and FRESH fuel. The higher the octane rating, the faster it goes bad

HXMan

http://www.apra.org/GlobalConn...e.asp

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The coolant should also be looked at, and if it has been a while since it has been changed now is a good time to flush the cooling system and refill with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water. The reason for using distilled water is that tap water contains minerals that can lead to electrolysis that can do damage to the metals in the radiator, heater core, engine block and cylinder heads. A way to check to see if you have an electrolysis problem is to use a digital volt meter, the negative lead goes to an engine ground and the positive placed into the coolant in the radiator. If the digital voltmeter indicates a voltage of over ½ of 1 volt, there is a problem with the coolant, this electrolysis problem will create a corrosion problem that will shorten the life of all the metal parts in the cooling system. One way to fight this problem is to place a piece of zinc or magnesium in the radiator, the two most common methods used are placing a zinc tab available from any marine shop in the radiator or using a radiator cap from Rad-Cap Products which has a magnesium anode attached to it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

HXMan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Put in the lowest octane rating your ca can handle also, with fuel stabilizer and FRESH fuel. The higher the octane rating, the faster it goes bad </TD></TR></TABLE>

Any true merit to this? I would like to know.

jlv55

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HXMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.apra.org/GlobalConn...e.asp


</TD></TR></TABLE>

theres the facts Emerika. thanks HXMan.