freakasis

93 DX hatchback

99 civic EX front brakes (same as the ek si)
95 GSR rear brakes

i have a prop valve from a 93 SI but it doesnt even look the same as mine. do i need the integra one? any particular trim/year?

also would i benefit from a differant master/booster combo? if so which one?

thanx

Jas9848

iTrader: (2)

94-99 non-abs integra should match up

Targa250R

The EH3 proportioning valve (is it stamped 3040?) is not the correct valve for your application. The closest thing that will directly bolt up and mate to your existing lines is the 4040 from a non-ABS '90-93 Integra; it's not an exact match but should work for your purposes.

Keep the stock booster and use a 7/8" master cylinder from a '90-91 CRX Si or '93-95 EX non-ABS 2dr. If you want a firmer pedal feel and shorter travel (which comes at the expense of ease of modulation), use a 15/16" master cylinder from a '90-91 Civic EX 4dr. Both of these options will bolt up directly to your existing booster and lines with no modifications.

Integra master cylinders will require you to swap boosters and in some cases reflare and bend lines.

freakasis

will the 90-93 teg one fit properly without bending lines?

and were they any differances between the civic boosters? because mine is leaking vacuum so im gonna need another one anyway. so i guess im asking when i do to get one which one should i get and does it matter as long its the right bolt pattern for the master?

spikehairboy

very informative.

"ease of modulation" - meaning harder brake pedal feel? or more force required for normal street light stops?

Is it possible to run the gsr 4040 prop valves? Is it even really necessary to change the prop valves on our cars, (unless you find that your rear is braking first) I dont really see why we need to..

EG_Warped

use the 4040 proportioning valve and the stock civic booster will work. It will most likely be cheaper to just get another eh2 booster... since you said your booster had a vacuum leak...

freakasis

modulation in this context means to ease from soft to hard brakeing.

yes it necessary to change the valve otherwire your braking wont be balanced. the rears might not even be working at all depending on what prop you had to start with.

Mashimaro

iTrader: (1)

Only the Integra RS (15/16 MC) will will fit without any bending or flaring of lines. but you have to get the matching booster as well (sounds like you'll need one anyways since you're having a vacuum leak).

The DA GSR MC is a 1" MC with the lines in the same location, however the hardline that is closer to the firewall will NOT bolt up to the the 1" MC as the MC needs a 12mm fitting to thread in.

The DA booster also has the bolt-pattern angled differently from the EG ones, so you can't run the RS 15/16" MC on an EG booster if that's what you're thinking.

freakasis

i was asking if the 90-93 prop valve would bolt up without bending, sorry i guess i should have been more specific.

spikehairboy

Where do you get the idea that the rear brakes may not even work? assuming you come from a drum set up, fluid for that setup will go to the rear FIRST then return to the front lines.

If you already came from a disk setup then you should already have a proper prop valve no?

Don't know if any of you have ever rode newer luxury cars, but I was wondering how to get that soft brake pedal feel but extremely sensitive.

Targa250R

The bolt pattern for all Integra/ABS Civic boosters is different from '88-95 non-ABS Civics, so you will have to swap boosters. I am not sure if the DA booster will fit you car, but a '92-95 Civic w/ABS or '94-97 Integra booster will definitely fit ('98+ uses yet another different bolt pattern and lines).

If you use an ABS master cylinder, you will need to reflare the rear line with a 12mm fitting. If you use a non-ABS '90-97 Integra/'88-95 Civic MC, both lines will bolt up.

Modulating the pedal is more difficult. Upsizing the master cylinder without changing the caliper piston area will create a firmer pedal feel with less pedal travel for the same amount of fluid moved. This does make it more difficult to threshold brake because the pedal has less distance to work with, meaning the margin between lockup and freewheeling is narrower. As another principle of hydraulic systems, the pedal will require more effort to exert the same pressure on the calipers - thus you will have to press proportionially harder. Some people prefer the trade off in favor of a firmer, shorter pedal feel since the human body is more sensitive to distance than pressure.

All GSR Integras have ABS. ABS cars do not use a proportioning valve but rather a dummy distribution block. The 4040 can only be found in non-ABS Integras.

If Honda felt it necessary, there's a reason. I do it for my cars, because I don't half-*** things and I need proper brake balance for my track car. Some others don't bother; these are usually the people who are clueless about brake systems, can't discern any real difference, and only swap parts because it's trendy.

spikehairboy

I see, I'm running the 96 itr setup, and I'm planning to swap the rear rotors and calipers to the 96 Prelude ones, and the fronts to 96 prelude rotors and 95 GS calipers with the 4040 prop valve from a non-abs DA (I guess that's what you said works); I'm still trying to figure out what master would be best.

Im looking for the sensitive, luxury type pedal feel. Any help?

freakasis

i will be going with the DA non-abs prop valve and as far as masters go i will try the 7/8" one and if i dont like how it feels ill change to the 15/16".

thanx for all the help.