civicb16eg

My cousin is having problems with his 2000 ITR swap in his 1994 honda civic ex.. Everything went in fine, cranks and starts up perfect but when test droved, car bogged when vtec kicked in.. Vtec sounds strong but doesnt pull for ****... We're using the stock ex harness and changed the dizzy plug to match the ITR dizzy.. running on a p28 kenji chipped ecu.. What can be the problem?

mister_ej2

is it a jdm or usdm motor/vtec solenoid.......check grounds too maybe....

civicb16eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mister_ej2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it a jdm or usdm motor/vtec solenoid.......check grounds too maybe....</TD></TR></TABLE>

its a usdm motor...trying switching solenoid and checked all ground but still having the same problem

gizzerhatch

get the correct ecu.

civicb16eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gizzerhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the correct ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what would be the correct ecu that will fit onto my obd1 harness? i would love to know that!!!

93preludeh22

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicb16eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what would be the correct ecu that will fit onto my obd1 harness? i would love to know that!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought it was your cousin?

RyanA

I'd check ECU and fuel pressure. Sounds like a fuel problem to me. Could be due to the ECU not putting enough in or it could be due to the fuel pressure being too low. I have done one swap that the fuel pump just couldn't supply enough fuel (it was in a 93 DX so it had the crappy pump anyway) on a stock GSR swap.

civicb16eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93preludeh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought it was your cousin? </TD></TR></TABLE>

u know what i mean...... POST *****!!!

civicb16eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd check ECU and fuel pressure. Sounds like a fuel problem to me. Could be due to the ECU not putting enough in or it could be due to the fuel pressure being too low. I have done one swap that the fuel pump just couldn't supply enough fuel (it was in a 93 DX so it had the crappy pump anyway) on a stock GSR swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What ecu should i be runnning?? we have done many b series swaps and never had problems with the fuel pump not supplying enough fuel...but i guess ill check on that...

wickedegd16

sounds like an ecu problem....

spooled_lsvtec

you said you wired the dizzy from obd1 to obd2? maby you have a wire off somewere just use your obd1 dohc vtec dizzy will work great!

civicb16eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spooled_lsvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you said you wired the dizzy from obd1 to obd2? maby you have a wire off somewere just use your obd1 dohc vtec dizzy will work great!</TD></TR></TABLE>

if i wired it wrong, the car wouldnt start rite? because im getting spark from all the plugs... and wouldnt it throw a code if it wasnt wired rite?

civicb16eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wickedegd16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like an ecu problem.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive tried a p72, stock p28 and a kenji chipped p28.... what other obd1 ecu can i use????

RyanA

If you have done "a bunch" of swaps you well know that you need a P73 (obviously obd2) so that means you need an ECU that is tuned for your combo. ITR's run higher fuel pressure than other B series engines so crap will be all out of whack unless you have an ITR basemap in a P28 or P30. No need for a P72 (but you already knew this) because it runs IAB's and ITR's don't come with those.

So, you need an ECU that is programmed to run your engine. Pretty much rule 1 in the swappers manual; use the proper ECU for your engine or an ECU with proper tuning.

So, if you are running ANY stock OBD1 ECU from the US, you aren't even playing the the same ballpark as your engine is. Fix it right and be done. Get a socketed ECU and burn a chip for your combo.

AS for not being a fuel problem, how do you KNOW? Have you checked the fuel pressure? If so, what is it?

Just an FYI, here is the fuel pressure for the B18's:

B18A/B: 40-47
B18C1: 48-55
Type R: 47-54

EDIT: If you or a friend has a wideband, this would be the way to go. You could see how lean you are (or how rich). Would also come in handy when you tune the car.

civicb16eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have done "a bunch" of swaps you well know that you need a P73 (obviously obd2) so that means you need an ECU that is tuned for your combo. ITR's run higher fuel pressure than other B series engines so crap will be all out of whack unless you have an ITR basemap in a P28 or P30. No need for a P72 (but you already knew this) because it runs IAB's and ITR's don't come with those.

So, you need an ECU that is programmed to run your engine. Pretty much rule 1 in the swappers manual; use the proper ECU for your engine or an ECU with proper tuning.

So, if you are running ANY stock OBD1 ECU from the US, you aren't even playing the the same ballpark as your engine is. Fix it right and be done. Get a socketed ECU and burn a chip for your combo.

AS for not being a fuel problem, how do you KNOW? Have you checked the fuel pressure? If so, what is it?

Just an FYI, here is the fuel pressure for the B18's:

B18A/B: 40-47
B18C1: 48-55
Type R: 47-54

EDIT: If you or a friend has a wideband, this would be the way to go. You could see how lean you are (or how rich). Would also come in handy when you tune the car.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the help...but i never ruled out the fuel pressure..i just said that with the swaps we have done, we've never had to change the stock fuel pump...but besides that i checked the fuel pressure and its way below the ITR specs... would changing the fuel pump work or do i have to run an ecu wit an ITR chipped basemap?

RyanA

Well, you need to get the fuel pressure up to par first. After that, a P72 would get you in the ballpark and should run OK but it won't run as good as an ECU with a chip flashed for your setup. There are plenty of people that will flash you a pretty decent chip for cheap on the internet these days. If you have a friend that does it, that is best because they can actually adjust your setup nearly perfect. Mail order is usually close but you may still have to tweak it a little to get it really good.

Ryan

gsrhatch2356

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have done "a bunch" of swaps you well know that you need a P73 (obviously obd2) so that means you need an ECU that is tuned for your combo. ITR's run higher fuel pressure than other B series engines so crap will be all out of whack unless you have an ITR basemap in a P28 or P30. No need for a P72 (but you already knew this) because it runs IAB's and ITR's don't come with those.

So, you need an ECU that is programmed to run your engine. Pretty much rule 1 in the swappers manual; use the proper ECU for your engine or an ECU with proper tuning.

So, if you are running ANY stock OBD1 ECU from the US, you aren't even playing the the same ballpark as your engine is. Fix it right and be done. Get a socketed ECU and burn a chip for your combo.

AS for not being a fuel problem, how do you KNOW? Have you checked the fuel pressure? If so, what is it?

Just an FYI, here is the fuel pressure for the B18's:

B18A/B: 40-47
B18C1: 48-55
Type R: 47-54

EDIT: If you or a friend has a wideband, this would be the way to go. You could see how lean you are (or how rich). Would also come in handy when you tune the car.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Swappers manual, I didnt know there was one and its got rules too! just kidding. anyway he is very much right proper fuel pressure is a necessity and just think a lean condition causes excessive temps, MELTING PISTONS. once you get the fuel pressure back up you do need to get a base map for the type r or get it tunned if you got a bunch of bolt ons. good luck man!

blkegcoupe

no oil?

civicb16eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkegcoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no oil?</TD></TR></TABLE>

of course theres oil...

civicb16eg

will a gsr/LS fuel pump bring the fuel pressure up to par?

RyanA

GSR fuel pump should get you where you need to be as long as the FPR is not leaking down.

B18C5-EH2

Sorry to butt in but I wanted to say to those of you ripping on his ECU that's not the problem unless it was a bad chip.

Kenji's ECUs are IMO the best "off the shelf" ECU for an ITR swap. I ran his ECU for years with mine and netted 175/122 to the wheels with only his ECU and a CAI and exhaust - stock USDM iron exhaust manifold too.

A STOCK ITR P73 SUCKS *** FOR THIS SWAP!!!

"But why if it's the right ECU?"

...because the USDM one has all the OBD2 bullcrap to deal with, and the JDM ones can have speed limiters and less than ideal VTEC cross overs and fuel mapping when you consider the i/h/e mods we all do to these swaps. I mean if by "better" you mean it's "better" to have to wire up a 2nd o2 sensor, evap canister, CKF sensor, and worry about the 30 extra OBD2 codes they throw then yeah go for it. also if by "better" you mean being slower/making less power then you know what you're doing I guess.



I have personally ran a JDM P73 with a jumper harness and the engine did not make as much power or pull as nicely as it did with the Kenji ECU.

RyanA

Not to mention if you run a USDM ITR ECU, you have to do a CKF bypass along with the secondary O2. Japanese ITR ECU does not use the CKF or even a VTEC pressure sensor but it's still OBD2. If you have an OBD1 car, I'd definitely stick with an OBD1 ECU.

Ryan

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to mention if you run a USDM ITR ECU, you have to do a CKF bypass along with the secondary O2. Japanese ITR ECU does not use the CKF or even a VTEC pressure sensor but it's still OBD2. If you have an OBD1 car, I'd definitely stick with an OBD1 ECU.

Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the JDM ITR ECU is only OBD2 in plug-type, but as you outlines is an OBD1 program lacking CKF, 2nd o2, evap readings, and it won't throw system too lean/rich, catalyst codes, etc.

civicb16eg

thanks everyone for the input...will be swapping in a gsr fuel pump this weekend..so ill update after that is done..lets hope that is the problem..