honda1333

Hey guys, I am not sure if this is the right forum but it seems to be.

I have a 1994 Honda Civic LX, not sure about the specs but it's bone stock so a 4 cylinder 1.x, and automatic transmission. I am sure you guys know more.

A few weeks ago I went on a trip that lasted a week, when I tried to start my car it took a lot of cranking for it to turn on. Maybe a good minute, it was trying to turn over but just couldn't.

Fast forward a few weeks I was at the gas station just going to fill up, as I was ascending the small ramp like pavement they have before the pumps it started to sputter a bit. The gas wasn't too low, but low enough for me to just think it needed gas. I pumped a full tank and was off, it turned on with no issues. As I was descending the same ramp it sputtered even more and a few feet later just shut off. I tried turning it on many times and nothing happened, it was very similar to when I returned from my trip. Now I've had it towed to my house as I figured it would be one of a few things. Most of which are easy enough for me to do and not pay mechanic prices.

I figured it was either the fuel system or something with the spark plugs, its wiring or the distributor. Just wondering what you guys think it could be?

Things I have done so far, I checked the fuel pump and it does make a noise and I can sometimes even smell gas in the engine area. I have taken out the spark plugs and they seem to be in working order but I did see that the O rings needed changing as there was oil at the top. I cleaned that as best I could took out the plugs to see if there was oil or something in there and there seemed to be a bit, but the treads on the spark plug had oil on them so I figured it seeped through with time.

Anyway anything you guys can think of will help me a lot. I will be taking it to the mechanic if I can't figure this out myself. I am just hoping it won't be too much or I will have to put her out to pastures.

Thanks in advance guys.

Former User

Check for spark at the plugs. Click link in my signature. If you don't have spark, test the coil and have the igniter unit tested.

Any CEL codes?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

honda1333

Thanks a bunch Ron, sadly I have already taken it to the mechanic and yes it was the distributor. Must now shell out his payment , though it's not too bad I guess I called around to find how much the part would cost and he's only charging me a few extra dollars. He says it's for his time spent troubleshooting, which I could have done myself but was impatient.

I might be doing some preventative maintance myself though, I noticed my O rings are completely gone so will be getting up to that next weekend.

Anyway thanks again Ron I will be sure to come here first next time I have a problem.

honda1333

Now I got the beast back but I am noticing it's taking longer to get to speed, lagging. Is there any reason why this would be?

I was thinking of replacing the spark plugs and testing the wires/replacing them if need be.

Former User

You always want to ensure that the plugs and wires are in good condition. But whenever the distributor is replaced, it is critical to check/adjust the ignition timing. Start here:

honda1333

A good mechanic should have done that when he changed the distributor correct? I will have to go back later today to have him take a look at it. He said the issue I discribed was because of the transmission, which admitingly is old but it just feels different now. Like there is a lot more low end in the first two gears than before and it doesn't 'open' up until like 3,000RPM or so. Also it's idling at about 500 RPM where as before it would idle at around 1,000 RPM or just below.

Maybe I am just being crazy, I don't want to take the car back and look like a dick because I was mistaken. The reason I took it to them is to get the job done right, and I don't have a timing light to check if everything is alright.

Any advice would be great. Thanks a lot to Ron, and anyone else that might be able to offer advice

Former User

You are correct. The mechanic should check/adjust the ignition timing after replacing the distributor. But you know how that goes sometimes. Some auto parts offer free rentals of tools, including a timing light.

AGENT_47

You would think so I had my entire unit replaced at a Honda dealership and when I had problems later looking at the service report in the PC at the dealership they didn't bother to change the plugs.


This is also the same dealership that seemed dumbfounded on how to measure r12 ,they suggested converting to r134a and explained the procedure , not the good one .

So I spent $5 on a hose and recharged it myself with my Grandfather's r12 stock and have been at 45-50 degrees all day long in 100+ weather, no leaks so far so good.

My point is I always gave a large amount of respect to OEM Honda dealerships but in reality they're only as good as the mechanics are knowledgeable.

Actually Ron here is the man , thanks for all of your advice on this forum,cheers!

I've saved hundreds of dollars already coming to this website

honda1333

Thanks guys, Yeah Agent I can tell this forum will be of help for my time with the civic, I have had it for almost two years now and this is the first issue I encountered.

The mechanic wasn't from Honda just a normal mechanic shop. I will be going there in a few hours to have him test drive it and ask if he set the ignition timing which I am assuming he did not. I know for a fact the plugs and wires are the same, but I cannot understand how it can change so much as it wasn't like this with the old distributor.

I was thinking of changing the plugs myself before the mechanic, but was thinking he might just say that was the problem so I am putting it off.

How can I tell if the timing is off? Could what I described be a tell tale sign of it?

Thanks again Ron and Agent for your help!

Tico Loco

Hi

Most Honda have problems with the coil and the fuel pump when they have around 15 years old, so that´s normal. You should considered to replace the fuel pump in the next few month to avoid paying $50-150 to tow your car to your house, and you could check the oil seals ( crank, cam and distributor ).

Also check your timing belt and if you do not know how many miles since the last change , it may be a good idea to replace it. If you buy a new coil is much better because the coil in a used distributor may not last too long.

The ignition module last longer, maybe around 20 year, so it should be OK for now.

About your timing, as far as I remenber those distributor only fit in one position, so it can´t be off but you can move the distributor to advance or retard the timing. A timing light only cost about $20 and if you take good care it can last 30 years.

As Ron wrote, the timing should be around 15 º Before TDC. Also if you have a stronger spark now, its normal to feel more torque in the low end but also better in the high rpm. The idle I think should be around 750rpm in neutral or park.

AGENT_47

Crap I better change my fuel pump 17 years old now, is it relatively simple to do?

Although my car runs perfect I probably should leave it alone

honda1333

I will replace the pump if you think that is wise, I know it is easy enough to change over. As for the seals well they are ****ed, the O rings are leaking oil into the spark plug wells quite a bit. The valve seal is also a bit bad.

The distributor I went for was brand new, the mechanic told me I could save a few dollars on used but there really isn't much of a point as I would be back in a few months. So I opted for the new, I want this car to last a while or at least until I can sell it to someone and I don't like selling **** to people.

The timing belt hasn't been changed in the two years I had it, about 30,000kms, but before that I have no clue so it might be worth looking into it.

As for the torque bit, yeah I did notice the high end reacting much better. I just thought something was wrong as the torque was never so low, then again I never had a new part on it so it may explain that.

Before I could 'punch it' and the car would make it's rounds changing gears just fine sometimes sticking a bit before changing. Now when I do that it will just be super low end and not change gears (which was happening before, I started to treat it like a standard, lol.)

I checked the plugs they seem fine from what I can tell, the top metal bar (sorry I do not know the technical name, the part just over/covering the tip of the spark plug) is not bent out of shape, which I hear is a common way to tell if they are bad. I took a wire brush to them to clean off some of the residue to see if it was that no change. I might invest in some plugs though. I am going to see what the mechanic thinks in an hour or so.

I do not think he used a timing gun at all from what he said to me it sounded like he just slapped the part on.

It is pretty easy, I had to do it a few times on my 2000 civic. If I can do it anyone can, lol. I love how easy the pump is to access as well!

Thanks again guys, you're a great help.

Tico Loco

To replace the fuel pump is optional but is a plus, you do not know if it´s going to last a couple of years or a couple of months, but not nice if you are planning a long trip in the next few months and the pump failed.

Good luck!

Anyone planning to go to the Nopi event in Atlanta in a couple of months?

honda1333

So I took it to the mechanic, he claims one thing has nothing to do with the other. Given the explaination from Tico I understand the torque is greater so I just took it for what it was.

Sadly I came out spending more as my tie rod was in pretty bad shape so I decided to change it.

Anyhow there is a new issue upon start up after it has been sitting for a while (like over night) it starts really rough, goes up and down the RPMs and sounds like it wants to die then I give it a bit of gas and everything levels out and works fine. Any idea as to what is going on? If it will help I will record a short video with the sound and RPM gauge. Thanks again guys.

Former User

Clean the FITV and IACV -- click links in my signature.

honda1333

Okay I have done this, but a problem persists every now and then when I start my car after it has been sitting it revs at an extremely low RPM. It barely even registers I took a video to show you and will post it soon.

I thought maybe it had something to do with what I cleaned so I took it all apart to make sure. Everything was as should be. I tested my spark plug wires and two of them have low resistance, something tells me the issue will not so easily be solved. Thanks in advance for suggestions.

94EG8

In all the Hondas i've worked on I have yet to see or hear tell of anyone having to replace a fuel pump. Main relay sure, but I have yet to see anyone need a pump.

honda1333

I have had to do so before on my 2000 EX but that was because I enjoyed offroading.

Anyhow I have uploaded the video, but do not know how to embed it so here is the link

http://vimeo.com/14137792

honda1333

So does anyone have any ideas what that can be?

Could it be the timing? I just want a solid answer so I can go to the mechanic with facts so I can be confident in what I am saying and fight/argue with him if needed.

Thanks guys!

Video link again! http://vimeo.com/14137792

Tico Loco

Do you fix your problem?

Problem occurs when engine is cold? Hot or all the time?

Check timing, plugs, plugs cables, dirty fuel injectors. If the problem occurs only when cold do not look like a fuel pump problem ( fuel pump, get worst after warm up, after severals minutes ).

If you need to argue with your mechanic to try fixing your car you may try looking for someone else!

honda1333

I haven't figured out the problem yet. I went by the mechanics yesterday but he said he was too busy and would take a look today or tomorrow. I asked him point blank if they checked the timing, in a round about way he said yes but wasn't straight forward with the answer so it could be a lie.

The problem seems to occur only when the car is cold, but it has happened a few times in the hot weather. I have checked everything else, the plugs look fine, two of the wires have low resistance (but the car was running fine with those wires before.)

He says he will check the timing, I said perhaps the distributor was faulty so hopefully all goes well.

I do get a CEL code now, the oil light blinks when the car is at low RPMs and sounds like it wants to die.

Tico Loco

Oil light blinks is normal with that very low idle. Do you you know the code?
Try to check the code because it could be a old /faulty spark plug cable. If the code is something like misfire, very big chances of having a faulty spark cable. Sometimes old spark cable damage after pull them out.