motegicivic

I have a 96 civic 2dr ex with factory keyless.

I was working on the passenger side window molding, had the door panel off.

I put the door panel on and the door locks will not work. I did not touch any door lock connectors, the only connector I unplugged was for the window which works.


What happened, did some get unplugged or messed up when I put the panel back on?

Note: drivers door lock and passengers side does not work, with inside switch and keyless fob.

I checked fuses, and they seem ok, I check keyless fuse, door lock fuse which is shared with moon roof and moon roof works ok.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Take the door panel back off and check again.

Former User

Test 20A hood fuse 51 for voltage at both top test tabs.

honda fossil

i think maybe you ether blown a fuse of have a soft set connector<not plug in all the way> on the main switch

motegicivic

Ron what fuse is that for by the way? That is not the one shared with moon roof is it, because the moon roof still works?

You take a multi meter and put each probe on the little metal tabs on the top? With key on or off does it matter?

motegicivic

Where is the main switch?

honda fossil

on the door panel

motegicivic

Would the main be on the drivers side? I was only working on the passengers side?

honda fossil

check for a lose connection or broken wire in the door jam harness

honda fossil

in 96 they were kind of short and would pull out when the door was fully opened

Former User

Yes. Fuse 51 is good if the moonroof works.

Start by doing the tests for cavity 4 and 12 (power and ground):

motegicivic

Thanks Ron, I am wondering this say for instance there is a problem with the passenger side wiring to the actuator , say it got unplugged when I was working on it etc. Will it affect both doors, seems strange all of the sudden I was taking the passenger door panel off and now they both don't work?

motegicivic

I had that issue with the passenger door lock and window not working, I had it fixed about 2 years ago at honda they fixed and repinned it.

Former User

No. Doing the input tests will pinpoint the problem.

motegicivic

I am not great at electrical checking, do you need to put power to these inputs? or just use a multi meter? Also when doing it, does the key need to set II?

Former User

No and no.

yes

motegicivic

How do you test for continuity to ground?

Can anyone confirm if the passenger side actuator is unplugged will it knock out the whole lock system?

motegicivic

Ok, guys I was doing some reading, and one post said the drivers power lock switch goes bad it can take out the whole system...is this true?

Also, anyone know how to test the switch itself?

Former User

Set multimeter to read resistance on lowest Ohm scale. Touch one meter lead to indicated terminal and other lead to body ground (e.g., metal frame under dash).

Stop avoiding the input tests. They will pinpoint the problem.

motegicivic

Thanks Ron, what should it read when I do it?

Former User

50 Ohms or less (typically <10 Ohms) would indicate continuity to body ground.

motegicivic

Ron, when reading the pinouts above, you can manually check operation and I guess bypass the control unit to make the doors lock and unlock, my question is you jump the connectors they indicate above to do this?

After you jump the ports do you then hit the lock button to test?

Former User

Yes, and No need to hit the lock button. Do the tests exactly as indicated.

motegicivic

Thanks again, I wanted to bypass the control unit to at least see if I can get the locks to work, if so then chances are the control unit is bad.

If not then I know there is a bad ground, short, or cut wire maybe at the door jam.

motegicivic

delete, dup post