chillerice

Does this sound like a spun bearing? 98 civic auto (80105 miles), Never low on oil or over revved...


I had a engine rattle that I asked about just under 1 month ago. It was suggested to do a valve lash adjustment. I messed up on the mm & inches because of so much stress in terms of my health.I couldn't find .20 & .25mm on the feeler gauge I bought,As I didnt read the package fully. Anyway I ended up using .020 & .025 inches twice and hella lot of noise came with that.

I looked at my manual and saw my specs were very wrong. I seafoam my car through the brake booster vacuum last night at 3000 rpm. About half of a 8oz cup. Revved it up to 6k rpm on/off, no further to get the smoke out after the 10 minutes then drove it 22 miles spiritedly ( never went over 4.5k rpm ) and started it today & heard the noise like a loose part. The valve lash is fixed to spec. now (no noise) but that loose part is still there like below my intake manifod or close by.

Miguel613ekb18c

That's your valves man the valve lash should be 0.007" on intake and 0.009 on exhaust if u had a spun bearing u would loose oil pressure and stall out

chillerice

I adjusted my intake to 0.008 inch/.203mm & my exhaust to 0.010 inch/.254mm today.

Manual says .007 -.009 inch Intake. Exhaust : .009 -.011inches

It only stalled once at idle. And I drove it after restarting,it's been hesitating quite a bit since I put it back on the road with idle surge then it picked up and vtec kicked in. It's been sitting 1 and half years.

I know I have a possible bad iacv. It sputters & rpms drop to 0 every second but smooth out when warm & drops in gear again but I'm worried about the sound at 8 and 21seconds in the video.

apexi_rsx

take big very solid screwdriver and put the tip on each header runner and put ur ear up to the handle and listen as u rev it up and see if u hear any clanking in the bottom end.... ive done this for years and have determine knocks in specific cylinders before disassembly... a poor mans stethoscope... you can move the tip of the screwdriver around (valve cover, intake...etc..) and listen around the motor where ever u are... I know the headers a good spot for the noise to echo in the chamber...

chillerice

Are you talking about the exhaust header or the intake manifold?

98ekb18c

Spun bearing will not make you stall out until after you break a rod. Please don't spread false information. OP that def sounds like its coming from the head. Recheck the valve clearances.

chillerice

If I did spin a bearing how would it sound at start up?

All I did was run 5 ounces of seafoam slowly through BBV hose then after 10 minutes started it, revved to like probably 5 or 6k just a couple of times. & like 3.5 until the smoke died out somewhat. Loud valve tick was still there when I took it for a spirited drive but we never passed 4000 rpm or hear any knocking.

I was ashamed of myself when I realize by adjusting them 0.025 and 0.020 it sounded worse.

It's my fault though,never read the package carefully to see the measurements. I did that setting twice and was wondering why the hell is it louder than when I had the last summer parked.

I did adjust it back to .008 and .010 but that wasn't good enough apparently. I bought a gauge with the specific honda requirements and did it over last night. Haven't started the car since.

fragmare

I'd say recheck the valve lash. It's very easy to screw up the clearance you just made by tightening up the locknuts.

Miguel613ekb18c

Well if a connecting rod was broken the the egine wouldn't even turn over, I drove my d16y8 for a week with a spun bearing, kept dying when at a stop, until the connecting rod blew out of the block and well gues what the car did not stall because the engine won't even turn over
Shows how much u know about engines 98ekb18c

Former User

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