chicklet

So last October i was driving to a car show and i noticed that my car was steaming a bit. My being the genius I am figured that it was because it was hot and that the motor wasn't liking the heat all that much. So when it got dark after the car show I started to head home. Same thing. Watched the temp gauge and saw that it was rising higher then it normally goes. Immediately pulled over and got it towed back to the house. Called and around to see what the cause was and mulitple shops told me it was a blown head gasket. And that it wasn't worth fixing. They said it would be around 1200-2000 to fix it. Im thinking im just going to replace the head if it is warped. If i do so my head code is a p72-1(LS/VTEC swap). Are all p72s the same? Or are they different. I need to know before i buy one and find out that it wont fit. And any knowledge on replaced the head would be much appreciated!

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Same but may want to consider a B16A head just to keep your options open (would require a matching manifold I believe).

chicklet

Would it fit on the b18a1?

m90polk1

To resurface the head and a new head gasket is less than 400 ....Where are you getting these prices, if your getting it done at a shop for those prices your crazy. I can get it done by a mechanic with machine work and parts for under $1k

Jimi Hondrix

Shops just gave you quotes without seeing the engine or diagnosing? Overheating can be caused by:
1) failing/ failed waterpump
2) failing/ failed radiator fan
3) failing/ failed thermostat
4) clogged radiator

Do a block test on it. Do a dry and wet compression test on it.

chicklet

These are quotes that are provided by "reputable" shops around my area. Reason why they are in quotations is because I live in bumfuck middle of nowhere in NM. And to drive somewhere decent is atleast an hour away.

chicklet

My next question is with the LS/Vtec set, do I go with these The Official ARP Web Site | Kits ??? Or do I need different ones.

Jimi Hondrix

Answer the question... Did you bring the car in to the shop or just call them on the by phone?

chicklet

I just called

skier

iTrader: (5)

did you look where the steam/coolant was coming from? that may answer a lot of questions. (If it popped the cap off the coolant reservoir, or was a leak dripping all over your exhaust etc.)

Post a pic or two of the leak at the highest-up point you find it or source if you can find one (unless it's just the reservoir)

jonsey1886

Don't forget air in the cooling system folks.

fliberdegibbet

There are plenty of easy tests for a blown head gasket: try putting a glove/balloon around the radiator fill port with the cap off, start the engine. Glove dances, you got a leak.
Right now, your only symptom is overheating, don't let shops who haven't seen the car convince you it's something big yet.

chicklet

I dont need to test it. There is coolant in the oil and oil in the coolant. You can see it. That is a main test for a blown head gasket.

Jimi Hondrix

That is pertinent info that would have been helpful in your initial post. There are many symptoms of a head gasket breach: AGCO Automotive Repair Service - Baton Rouge, LA - Detailed Auto Topics - Symptoms of a Blown Head Gasket
Don't want to drive it like that for long, as at minimum coolant can accelerate internals wear and worse case hydro-lock the engine.
Machine shop(s) shouldn't charge much to mill (resurface) it if it's warped.They will check it with a precision straight edge and feeler gauges. They will also test for valve leaks and cylinder head cracks.
Milling + Valve (job) Lapp + new stem seals + hot tank cleaning should be somewhere between $225-$350. If it doesn't need a valve job (but, most likely will) then knock $100 or more off the price.

Make sure to check the block for level as well. If block is warped (rare) then time for engine swap. If you have a mechanic do the HG replacement...make sure they do a dry and wet compression test to rule out compression loss and the possibility of damaged or stuck compression rings. If there is compression loss in just one cylinder during dry compression test then during a wet test (adding 1 or 2 tablespoons of oil to cylinder) if the compression rises significantly in that cylinder it shows that there is compression ring damage.. If no increase in compression then could be compression loss through valve(s).
A head gasket can cause compression loss too and will generally show loss in two adjacent cylinders due to gasket damage between those two cylinders.

Better yet, or an addition to, than just a dry/wet compression test is a leakdown test. The point of both is if there is compression loss through cylinder ring(s) then you will need to consider additional expense and labor for to fix the compression ring(s) compared to an doing an engine swap.

Using a mechanic or DIY the head gasket replacement?

chicklet

My bad i thought i put that in there. I plan on doing it myself. I plan on ripping the head off and getting it evaluated. If it needs to be resurfaced then I might just replace the head depending on the cost of the resurface. Either way i plan on doing it myself cause it shouldn't be to hard to replace that stuff. The only tedious part is going to be re-timing the cams. If you guys have any tips on that then let me know. Also no one answered my question as to the head studs i should get. Since it is a ls/vtec swap I'm not fully sure what ones i should get. Please help

94 Civic Si

I am sure ARP has a kit, they seem to be a trusted name for studs/bolts.

chicklet

Will these fit my setup? The Official ARP Web Site | Kits

Jimi Hondrix

You'll know when you take the valve cover off and the first head bolt off. Studs have nuts that remove from the top of the head and bolts (factory) are bolts. If it has studs you can use re-use them. You can reuse some bolts too as long as they're are not torque-to-yield (T.T.Y) Bolts are cheap ($2.50 each) so it's good practice to replace them regardless. If you find that one or more of the bolts/studs block holes is stripped it will need a helicoil or time-sert repair. Hopefully, that won't be the situation though.

Since it's been overheating you can pretty much count on the head being warped. Also, wouldn't be surprised if you have some valve leakage too..as most high mileage engines do. Do a dry/wet compression test at minimum before you take the head off as I stated previously or you might be doing a lot of labor and spending money for nothing..due to a possible blown compression ring(s). Don't cheap out and buy a sh!tty E-bay kit..use OEM parts from places like HondaPartsNow or other OEM vendors.

There's a few ways to do the timing belt.. referring to the service manual is generally the best option. Vids below will show you some alternatives.
96-00 Service manual download: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46...nda-Civic.html

Great video for general HG replacemement how-to and tips:

HG without removing timing belt (he has a lot of great vids on DIY repairs including HG replacement):

chicklet

Thats the thing. It has overheated twice and for no more than a couple mins each time. Is that still going to make it warp?

Jimi Hondrix

Anyone's guess. Most likely..yes but, you will know when the machinist checks it or you can get a precision straight edge and feeler gauges and check it yourself.
As I previously mention check the block for warpage too. While it's unlikely the block is warped it's certainly a possibility. Harbor Freight sells feeler gauges and straight edges for cheap.
While a head gasket replacement isn't very complicated..you (or anyone else) want to do it right the first time. Getting the mating surfaces as clean as possible is crucial. Make sure the block's bolt holes/threads are clean and dry before installing the head bolts/studs (mentioned in 1st video posted). Follow torque sequences and specs outlined in service manual. You will need to buy, rent or borrow a torque wrench if you don't already have one.

chicklet

You guys keep saying that the block could be warped too... And its making me worried cause I don't have the time nor the money to potential do an engine swap.

Jimi Hondrix

I said this: " While it's unlikely the block is warped it's certainly a possibility" and this: " Make sure to check the block for level as well. If block is warped (rare) then time for engine swap."

You will only know when you get the cylinder head off and check the block for level. What I;m trying to get across is that's it's better for you to know for sure whether or not the block is true/level rather than not know and try to attach a machined head on a warp block that will never seal properly. It's easy to measure (youtubes) with a straight edge and feeler gauges. You will need feeler gauges to recheck valve adjustment anyway after the head is back on. You're asking about head gasket repair and I'm trying to be realistic with you about what's involved so you limit any possible errors.

A head gasket replacement (all parts included) that includes a machinist doing a resurfacing, cleaning, stem seal replacement and valve lapp is roughly about the same price as a used engine depending where you purchase the engine from. However, doing an engine swap you need a hoist of some type and unless you buy an engine that is running and you can compression test, block test, check spark plugs for fouling, leakdown test, etc... you really don't know what your getting. Used engines from junkyards are always a crap-shoot. JDM stores are more expensive but, probably a better choice.

chicklet

No no i got you. Its just seeing that makes me want to cringe. Im going to see if the block is level and hope for the best. If it is then i will just swap the head with a good if it is in fact warped. If not then hallelujah. Ill just buy the gasket and the head studs.

jonsey1886

Heard good things about these guys for quality head remans:

Cylinder Heads International

chicklet

Does anyone have experience in resurfacing their head themselves??? Cause i watched a video of a dude do it with some sand paper and it looked like it was working pretty freaking good.