johnnieh93

94 del sol vtec. replaced the iacv, fitv, coolant temp, map, o2, iat, checked for vacuum leaks and there are none. I replaced the booster also. When you start it up in the morning and it revs high like normal if you touch the gas it will drop and almost die. after it warms up it just gets a rough idle not bumpy or not any pattern about it. if you tap the brake several times in a row the idle freaks out too.

type-r swap

i had this problem with my gsr supercharge i went through 2 iacv so make sure the replacement is working good then after that adjust ur idle screw lower

johnnieh93

i am on my 3rd iacv. also my idle screw is bottomed out. That's where i get the best idle. otherwise it goes womp womp.

Acidcrakker

This is the Honda Prelude section.

Go to the Honda Del Sol section.

johnnieh93

any ideas? What about bmw coolant? I'm using the blue stuff.

austinkli

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnnieh93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any ideas? What about bmw coolant? I'm using the blue stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>
don't ever mix the coolants, bad idea, but that shouldn't affect the idle i don't think.

johnnieh93

I know that I didn't mix them I flushed out the **** that was in it and put bmw coolant in it cuz i get it free. I'm a mechanic. Anyway this idle **** is pissing me off. I can't figure it out.

fastrc2

if the idle screw is bottomed out, that is you subtracting air allowed in essentially, so you have a vacuum leak from somewhere else i belive, i have a 93 sol si, may sound dumb, but check the pcv valve, mine cause the womp womps, as you call it, and i chenge out a veyr old pcv valve, and it made a world of difference. i take it you work for beamer as a tech, well look at it this way, look at what the computer eneds for idle inputs, the fitv is its own mechanical baypass for cold, and once it sinks into warm or hot idle the iac takes over, for a proper idle when cold, the fitv should be in command of the air into the throttle body, and when its warm there should be no vacuum into its hole in the throttle body, indicating it shut off. if you have a vacuum leak else where, this was masked by adjusting the idle screw. i suggest follow the oem instruction of setting up the idle again assuming you have a factory non heavily modified motor.
this is for 92-95 models.
ok if canada model, 1st pull parking brake lever. then start and run the engine until cooling fan cycles with no loads activated. connect a tachometer. shut off engine, unplug the IAC start engine, may have to use the pedal to get it to run, stabilize at 1000 rpm then slowly lower to let it idle wherever it wants to. if it dies thats ok. the rpm on the tach should be for d15z1 manual 420 giver take 50 other manual engines same automatics, same number is neutral or park. adjust byt he screw hyou bottomed out. turn off ignition plug back in the IAC then unplug the 10 amp backup fuse for 10 seconds to clear the code you created. restart the hot engine with ALL loads off after one minute of running, check the idle speed, the specs are as follows, d15z1, amnual 600 giver take 50 other 670 giver take 50 automatic 700 giver take 50 idle the engine for 1 minute with the headlamps highbeams on, d15z1 manual, 700 giver take 50, others both manual and automatic, 750 givertake 50 then turn off all loads, and idle the ingine for 1 minute with blower on highest speed, and a/c if equipped is on. all engines 810 givertake 50

now if the idle is screwed up, which if another problem exsists it will be, follow this, if the rpms for cold start are too high, check these is the following order, fitv,iac, idle screw, if the idle is too high when hot, IAC, fitv, power steering oil pressure switch, idle screw. if the rpms are too low when hot, no load, the iac first then fitv, if anmything you do liek the steering or a/c triggers it to fall and not get picked back up correctly, let me know. if it still stalls while warming check the iac first, if it stall safter warming, check the screw first. i hope this helps, over all if the idle is too which i belive it will be, none of this will help, as i think you have a scondary air leak, or a internal vacuum leak.

johnnieh93

Good response thank you.

Ok Update. I just replaced the fuel pump cuz of no reason at all really. The idle has gotten better within the past few weeks. sometimes if I start it up in the morning and don't let the rpm's drop down it will bog down and almost die. All I have to do is tap the gas pedal and rpm drops to zero and catches itself and goes back to it's business. If I'm driving and it's warmed up say I just got off of the highway and threw in the clutch and watch the rpm's and they drop the same way.

If I am sitting at a stoplight with my foot on the brake, no loads, the rpm's will sit stable sometimes and if you piddle with the gas pedal you can get this rpm drop thing to duplicate. Keep in mind it's not a cold or hot situitation.

Update on work performed today. I smoke tested the car via the intake tube and used a screwdriver to hold the butterfly open. Found two leaks. One coming out of
the iacv connector. Just the black plastic was cracked and smoke was coming through there. I ghetto rigged that with some emoxy and got it to stop leaking. The other vacuum leak was comming from the thermostat housing area. haha and I have no idea why. This is a b16 94 del sol. I don't think there are any vacuum lines in that area. Not visually any way. It was not alot of smoke. Just enough to let me know that I'm not going to find where it is coming from. I don't know what is on the back of the block back there but I could not find where the smoke was coming from at all. I ran the engine and sprayed throttle body cleaner and brake cleaner everywhere. Still nothing.

I have replaced the pcv, the pcv oil catch canister, and all lines.