fkbsar

Newbie question here so please bear with me. I have a 94 Civic Honda LX that had a check engine light on when I bought it. My mechanic determined that the engine needed to be changed. My mechanic changed out the engine but he said that the CEL was still on afterwards. I tried taking out the 7.5 amp fuse under the hood and the CEL light came back on. I haven't tried unhooking the battery but I figured the mechanic had to do that when he changed out the engine. So the engine light is still on and I don't know if the light is still on from the original engine or if its throwing codes for the new engine. I did the jumper trick that I read in another thread on there, but my connector is blue (96-00) instead of the grey (94) that I was expecting to see. But that's neither here nor there I guess . I read the code that flashed as two long and 4 short (24) but I can't find that code listed anywhere.

Thank you in advance for your help.

h22a4_sol

well the only reason u cant find that code is cause it doesnt exist. make sure its 2 long and not 1 long. cause im thinking MAYBE!!!! you read it wrong and its supposed to be code 15 ignition output signal. double check

fkbsar

Thank you for that suggestion because now I'm definitely questioning how I interpreted what I saw. I know that it is two long and 4 short BUT there was definitely a long time between the two longs so it could be a 10 and a 14 possibly? The second long and the 4 shorts come right behind each other.

I just looked up the codes for 10 (IAT - intake air temperature sensor) and 14 (IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve)) and to my newbie mind or way of thinking these codes make more sense since they seem to be related.

Is there any way to upload a short clip here so maybe someone with more experience can take a look?

Jockone

So did the car have other problems apart from the check engine light when you bought it?

fkbsar

At purchase the CEL light was/still is on, the SRS light was/still is on, and there was the smell of oil (changed out the engine - antifreeze in the oil). The airbag light is my next fix is there a way to deal with that? After the replacement of the engine the car drives like a champ - just the light continues to stay on. So I don't know if this is a left over code or a new code.

h22a4_sol

Just upload to youtube.com and post link here

BLeSR

have you tried to reset thes ecu?

fkbsar

I tried taking out the 7.5 backup fuse, but don't know if I left it out long enough last night. I'm going to try again this evening. If that doesn't work I'll try the battery unhook. Will let you all know what happens in the morning and hopefully will get the youtube code blinking posted.

fkbsar

Well....I got one of the three done. I got the video clip. Didn't have a wrench to get the battery cable off. Popped out the backup fuse but the light came back on anyway and jumped the SRS cable but instead of the light blinking like it was supposed to in the instructions it stayed on solid. So maybe one out of three is good for me.

Here's the video:

http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...t=CELLight.flv

miguel329

looks like 24

0HAMOTORSPORTS

I'm seeing a 10 and a 14...

I'm betting on it that somebody has the two plugs switched as they are the same connector on EG's

I'd try switching the plugs, see if it fixes the IACV code, if it does, pull out the intake air temp sensor because it will be fried, replace it, clear codes, and I bet you will be good. We see this error all the time. It is a very easy mistake...

h22a4_sol

thats what im seeing. like he said check those plugs cause yeah they are alike and confusion on those two happen alot. thats why on every car ive had i mark the plugs i can get to just incase i ever gotta take a few of them off for some reason

fkbsar

I did look under the hood and found the two plugs that you all were talking about and I did try and switch them. The only thing is that one is quite shorter than the other so that I could not switch them they only seemed to be able to reach the device where they were plugged into. I mean that the shorter one could not reach the IACV. I even tried pulling on the shorter one and couldn't make it reach. So I just plugged it back the way it was. By the way I am definitely not a mechanic or mechanically inclined but I like to tinker. I hope I'm looking at the right parts I circled the ones that I tried to switch without success.

0HAMOTORSPORTS

Wrong plugs, we are talking about switching the intake air temp and Idle air control valve...

fkbsar

Which two parts are those? I'm trying to learn as I go. Thanks. Where can I find a a diagram of what we are talking about. Using a diagram that I found in the forum I see the plug for the IACV now I'm looking for the other one - are the ones circled the ones I need.

0HAMOTORSPORTS

yep, switch those two.

fkbsar

Update Well I took my car back to my mechanic, we looked at the codes again, I showed him this thread that I had printed out and watched while he switched the two plugs that I circled in the last picture. After switching the plugs we ran the codes again and it still came up 10 and 14. This kinda confused me because I thought the switch would have at least deleted the code 14.

fkbsar

Another Update: My mechanic cleaned and put in the IAC from my old motor and I just ran the code on the car and I believe its a 10 and the SRS light is now blinking. So as one of the other posters stated now all I have to do is change the Idle Air (that should clear the last code) and then figure out why the SRS is blinking it was on before but solid - after starting the car it stays on solid. Here is a video to make sure its a 10 that I'm reading (and you can see the SRS blinking). Thanks for the help. Sry about the bad image.

[IMG]

h22a4_sol

im getting 10. replace the iat and see if it stops it.