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HOOKAY so my car still does not idle properly. i have to keep the gas pedal held down to keep it alive and it sounds like it has cams and i dont lol. it barely stays alive.

SPECS:
-its a 99 GSR motor in my 98 EK
-stock p72 ECU
-OBD2A

when i start the car it idles for about 1 second and then cuts out and is about to die.
heres what i changed and did so far:
-change intake manifold gasket
-change throttle body gasket
-chenged pcv valve
-re-calibrated TPS
-IAC Valve is good and cleaned
-Idle screw is opened up
-checked compression (about 175 per cylinder)
-changed primary o2 sensor

and now i have NO CLUE WTF could be my problem. if u have any other ideas please post them thanks.

Former User

Has the throttle stop screw been tampered with, causing the throttle plate to close too far?

Is the CEL on? If so, what codes are thrown?

Is the TPS properly calibrated (0.5V closed, 4.5V WOT)?

How do you know the IACV is working properly?

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no the throttle opens and closes good and doesnt stick, the only CEL code it throws is a 22.

and the TPS is calibrated to exactly those measurements

and the IACV is working properly.

*i am thinking it may be something telling the IACV to close? and not stay open?

(thanks for replying u are the man)

Former User

No problem. You might check the resistance of the 2-wire ECT sensor under the distributor and also bleed the cooling system of possible trapped air.

Do you have a FITV?

How do you know the IACV is working properly?

Is the ignition timing set to spec?

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okay ill check the resistance in that (that was next on the to-do list)

and i dont have a FITV

the iacv is working because i ran voltage through it and it clicks

ignition timing is not set because i cant get the car to idle (where should i set the timing for now?)

thanks for ur help again dude

Former User

Does the idle speed change at all if the IACV is unplugged? Is the port in the throttle body leading to the IACV possibly clogged?

What's the spec idle speed for your engine? Can a buddy hold the pedal down a little to achieve an approximately normal idle speed while you point a timing light at the crank with the service connector jumped?

-__-

i never tried to unplug the IACV while the car is running because it does not hold an idle.

and i guess we can try to adjust timing like that.

to-do list (as of now)
-clean throttle body and all ports
-ECT sensor
-do timing

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alright so i cleaned the throttle body and re-calibrated the TPS again. i also read the ohms on the temperature sensor and it was good.

*i now believe that it IS a vacuum leak. the rpms fluctuate rapidly between 500 and 1500 rpm. should i grab a bottle of carb cleaner or something and spray and look for the leak? where else should i look?

-__-

im now thinking that it is the alternator. this is because it migth not be supplying enough voltage to everything (the IACV as well). everything else has been ruled out. im also thinking its this because when i turn on my A/C it impacts the idle huge. ALSO the battery i had in the car before died in about 3 days. anyone have any other suggestions? bump.

Former User

An auto part store will check your alternator free of charge. Does the battery light ever turn on or flicker when you are driving? Does the battery light work?

Did you check the ignition timing?

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no the battery light doesnt come on and its a new battery. and the battery light works because when i reset my ECU and turn the key to (II) it turns on.

no i did not do timing.

so could this be a cause?

Former User

Yeah, I'm not sure that the alternator is the problem, but have it tested because it free.

The ignition timing is worth looking into because it could cause an idle problem and because it too is pretty easy to test.

Arthas

How do you check your engine for vacuum leaks? I honestly think thats the problem with mine.

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uhh spray carb cleaner over any intake mating surfaces and if the idle evens out or stumbles then u may have found the leak.

skaternak

bump