streetsweeper

I just swapped my drums out for the integra rear disc conversion and now after i drive my car for a few miles my brakes keep locking up on there own. How can I fix this? What could the problem be? 1 of my friends said to change the master brake cylinder, but I know of numerous people that did the conversion and didn't have to change anything. If it is the master brake cylinder which one should I use? A new stock 1 for my car or an integra one? Someone else said it could be the proportion valve but I thought those were all the same in 96-00 civic's. PLEASE HELP THANKS!!

streetsweeper

bump! someone please help!

skrewloose78

proportioning vavle isnt the same. did you re-use old calipers or did you put new ones on? if you used old ones they may be sticking

JasonGhostz

Have you already ruled out hub failure? I only ask this because I find it odd that the brake hydraulics would gain pressure over time (causing your calipers to eventually clinch the rotor) as opposed to losing pressure over time (more common of a case). The only thing I can think of is heat causing air or brake fluid to expand enough to do this, but I don't have a lot of confidence in this.

If you are sure that your hubs aren't freezing on you (keep in mind how many miles they may have driven on the donor vehicle, particularly in your area), then the only other thing I can think of is to check your parking brake setup. Perhaps somewhere things are too tight, causing your cables to provide friction even when your handle is all the way down.

Since you don't mention any pedal stiffness/softness/travel problems, the problem sounds more mechanical than hydraulic. But regarding the prop valve, I recommend staying within the same chassis family as your current vehicle (i.e. get a 99-00 SI Prop Valve (46210-S04-902), since you mentioned the 96-00 Civic).

Also, which side(s) is(are) affected, and how gradual or sudden is this behavior? If it's both sides and gradual, I'd be thinking parking brake. If it's isolated to one side (corner), that will help determine things too. If the stoppage is sudden (VERY DANGEROUS), then definitely check your hubs.

Good Luck!
JasonGhostz

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetsweeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... It is gradual if you consider driving like 3 or 4 miles the all of a sudden the pedal gets real stiff and the car doesn't want to budge. It only seems to happen when the car is running for a while or I'm driving a short distance like i said 3 or 4 miles is the furthest i've gone so far. I did a search and found that I should change my master cylinder to a 99-00 civic si 1 is that true? I know alot of people that have done this swap and never encountered this problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you say you drive for 3 or 4 miles, do you use the brake *at any time* while driving this distance? I'm now thinking that your caliper(s) doesn't(don't) release the pressure after being used, and the piston gets stuck in a friction position (as opposed to retracting back into the caliper after you release the brake pedal like it's supposed to). This might be a mechanical and/or hydraulic problem. Hopefully, it's just a matter of cleaning the piston assembly of any rust/scale, lubing it back up (with new seals if necessary), and reseating it within the caliper.

It sounds like you have a hydraulic problem now that you mention the pedal stiffness (I'm thinking: seized piston). However, a mechanical problem like a seized piston could lead to the symptoms you described (stiff pedal). One thing to consider is which corner(s) is(are) being affected. This will help determine where the problem might be, as well as if it's a mechanical or hydraulic problem (or both). Next time it happens, or if you have an opportunity to test it, try to determine which caliper(s) is(are) causing the lockup.

The thing is that it's very uncommon (in my limited experience) that a brake's hydraulics would gain pressure (causing the calipers to clinch) with time. It's usually a leak or bad seal that leads to a *loss* in pressure. Any other HTers encounter this before?

Anyway, regarding the MC, it is probably best to go with the same one used within the same chassis family for a model that came with disc brakes (from the sounds of things, the 99-00 2DR SI). If you drive an EK, get Honda P/N#: 46100-S04-A14. Tell us what you have, and we can make a better determination of what you need (year, model, trim level)... If you have a 99-00 Coupe EX, then don't worry... they use the same BMC as the 99-00 Coupe SI.

Keep in touch and good luck!
JasonGhostz


Modified by JasonGhostz at 4:12 PM 10/12/2005

streetsweeper

I have a 97 dx civic.

JasonGhostz

In that case, if you want to replace your MC, get the one for the 99-00 SI (46100-S04-A14). If you want to replace your Prop Valve, get the one for the 99-00 SI (46210-S04-902).

Just remember that your problem might still persist even after replacing these. Try to isolate the problem first, fix it, then proceed with the rest of the upgrade/mods. While you might be better off, you shouldn't get a heart transplant because your ankle hurts, KWIM?

Either way, you can always carefully drive your car to the shop to get things checked out by a pro. They might not say the things you like, but you can be certain that if anything's wrong, they'll point it out to you in the hopes of getting more of your $$$. Make sure they can fully explain what's wrong with your car, and what they will do to fix it, then DIY!! ... and always ask for your old parts back.

Unfortunately, you might not have the right place to test your car or check things out yourself. But if you did the work yourself, then you must have a workshop in which to do it, right? Either way, try to get a friend to help diagnose your problem, and find out which calipers are clinching or binding. Othwerwise it's just more of the guessing game.

Good Luck,
JasonGhostz