stock99si

hey guys i recently purchases a 99 civic si, and it came with some shortshifter, i dont know which one, but if i shift a little quicker the gears dont go in smoothly, seems like something blocks the shifter from goin in for a second, but if i shift really slowly its fine.


i bought a skunk 2 short shifter now and i havent installed it yet, can someone just tell me if they think that that will solve my issue. thanks

killerB16A

i guess they call them crappy short shifter for a reason...lol but it may not be your shifter..it could be that the syncros are going bad....does it do this in evey gear?

amej8

I would say tranny too. When it's cold, my tranny does the same thing. Has a hard time getting into first until fully warmed up, especially when moving, even at 5MPH.

Short shifter shouldn't effect shifting itself other than a shorter throw.

stock99si

it does do it in every gear, but if im not moving its fine.

another thing i should probably say is my shifter is very abnormaly stiff so yea.

Heart4Audio

check all your bolts from whoever put the shifter in. check your linkage and bushings. i own the skunk2 on a 99 ex. works great. the bolt at the bottom of the shifter may have been tightened too much causing the bushing to be pinched and not move well. just some input

stock99si

yea im gonna put it the shifter tomorrow, its skunk 2, ill make sure i do everything right,


does anything need to be torqued?

and how tight should i make the bolts

Zeusfire69

Your clutch may be dragging a little bit. If it does not completely release, it will keep the trans spinning and the sincro hard to work really hard to slow it down. So it makes it hard to get into gear.

Try a test just to make sure. start the car, when it is idleing press in the clutch pedal, wait about 3 seconds, and put it in reverse. Reverse has no sincro, so if the trans is still spinning, it will grind going into gear. You wait about 3 seconds to let the trans stop spinning on it's own. If the clutch is dragging (not releaseing all the way) it will keep the trans spinning and will make it grind. I hope this makes sense to you.

To go one step further, if the clutch IS dragging, someone may have gotten under the dash and "adjusted" the master cyl rod. If it is not set properly, it will not completely release the clutch. There should be about 1/8" play at the top of the pedal travel (just a little wiggle room) before it starts to move the rod into the master. NO more, NO less, any other setting can mess up your release.

stock99si

yea it grinds the grinds the gear and doenst go in all the way into reverse, how can i be sure to adjust the cylinder correctly, and where exactly is this located.

Zeusfire69

It's right next to the brake master cyl. If you get under the dash and look at the clutch pedal, you will see where the rod hooks to the pedal. It has a lock nut on it too. You will have to loosen the lock nut to adjust it. DON"T loosen it until you check if it is adjusted correctly. You can psuh the pedal with your hand and see/feel when it starts to push the piston inside the master. There should bo VERY little endplay before it acually starts to move the piston. If is has lots of play..there's your problem. If is preloaded, it will cause it not to move enouph fluid eather. Think of it in terms of how much fluid you are moving down to the slave cyl. If it's too short (well that's obvious) if it's to long, the system will try to adjust itself and will not move enouph fluid eather.

THIS MAY NOT BE YOUR PROBLEM. You may have an issue with the clutch inside the trans. instead. This is just the first/easiest thing to check out. I have seen it quite a few times. BTW, this is the same for ANY hydraulic clutch release system,on any car. There is only ONE correct adjustment. You can adjust the pedal height on some cars...that is why the rod can be adjusted as well. So you can bring the rod back where it belongs if you want to adjust the pedal height for a shorter/taller person etc....

EJ8 GSR-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock99si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea im gonna put it the shifter tomorrow, its skunk 2, ill make sure i do everything right,


does anything need to be torqued?

and how tight should i make the bolts</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey um i had the same prob on my EX. THere is some ebay brand short shifter that dosnt fit properly with one of the exhaust hangers, as this prob could be a number of things im not implicitly suggesting this is the prob but when you do the new install make sure that from under the car the shifter can move all around freely.

stock99si

okay i did the test, the pedal moves the rod right away, but the clutch is very loose for about 2 inches, the piston doesnt actually go in until like 2 inches of play. but im a littl econfused on which to adjust, the one thats exactly behind the clutch pedal or the one that exctly connects to the piston.


if you have aim leave me a screenname please

Zeusfire69

It sounds like you faound your problem...

The rod should be adjusted longer so it moves the piston as soon as the pedal starts to move the rod...but <U>don't adjust it any longer</U> There should be about 1/8" of play at the very top (just a little wiggle room) before it starts to ove the piston. Sorry, I have no AIM...

The reason you want to make sure not to adjust it too long is that it will hold the clutch a little bit released and it can burn up your clutch VERY quickly.

stock99si

but there is a problem, i cant break the bolt, i dont know what tool to use, theres no room for a wrench, and also, should i just bleed my clutch for 20 bux at local shop?

Zeusfire69

Bleeding it will not change anything....it's a 10 or 12mm nut on the rod, can't remember, and yes you can easly fit a wrench in there. Kinda tough on the back, but you can do it. I have many times...

stock99si

iight kool. im gonna go try it and let u know whats up.


p.s. so what exactly does bleeding do?

Zeusfire69

Bleeding the system only takes air out of the lines (if there is any) air will compress where brake fluid will not. If there is air in the line it will not move the clutch fork far enouph to release. (because it's compressing the air)
What you are dealing with here is not air, it is actual movement of the fluid. If the piston does not move enouph fluid, it will not release the clutch.

stock99si

icic iight sounds good, im gonna try breaking that bolt, which tool should i use and how much should i turn it which way?

Zeusfire69

You should loosen the NUT. After you loosen it....you should be able to spin the rod around to move the lock nut backwards and forwards. Here's a picture...
After you are done...just tighten the nut back up so it will stay put.

Libertariat

Zeusfire FTW.

I can add x2 it's not your clutch

Otherwise he's got it covered.

trrbl1bmx

more than likley a shitty shifter. which has probably already caused the syncronizers to wear out.

stock99si

oooo icic, dude that helps so much, thanks.


and what happens if my syncros are worn out, and how do i find that out.

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">more than likley a shitty shifter. which has probably already caused the syncronizers to wear out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shifter is a shifter, there's shitty shifter installs (Hard to install a shifter incorrectly.)

And there's shitty shifting, you're best bet is shitty shifting. If your synchros are toast your easiest option is to get a new tranny.

stock99si

yea i really dont think that my shitty shifting ive been driving for a long time, maybe the previous owner was shitty shifting, but how can i tell if their bad?

stock99si

how can i tell if the syncros are bad, can someone tell me this please

stock99si

okay yea i adjusted the clutch now, its release point is like half way out, if not further, but theres only a little play of the clutch. did i do this right?