M.A.R.C.

OK I'm really lost, and the only reason I am posting and not headed to the dealership is because... well... I haven't had time (I'm at work as I speak).

Most people know about the IACV problems a lot of people have had or been having. OK well let me explain mine.

Car in case:
00 Civic D16Y8

Mods:
Injen intake, B&M FPR <-- only two things I think would make a difference Bosch platinum plugs, Autometer A/F gauge, AND 3 months PRIOR to the problem, I was running a Zex kit @ 55 shot.

OK history.

Intro:

I had no problems with idle prior to this, ran the Zex kit fine also, used from Sept. '01 - Nov. '01. Anyway, in January, while rolling to a stop (clutch in, or neutral) in rush hour traffic, my car's idle just rises to 1500rpm and sticks there. It would stay that way until I came to a COMPLETE stop. If I kept on rolling it would stay at 1500rpm. Gave no CEL or anything, so I just figured it was a fluke. Maybe the A/C or the fan turned on or something. I also disregarded it due to the fact that it wasn't consistent. It didn't happen at every stop and sometimes would go away when I turned the car off then back on again.


Part I:

Then sometime in March, it started happening more frequently. So I posted on H-T about what could cause it. Many said to check for vacuum leaks and to spray carb cleaner around the intake manifold, etc. Did all that. No change. A couple weeks after this, it threw a CEL. Checked the code. It was the code 14: Electronic Air Control. I was told that's the same as the IACV. When the CEL first came on, at idle, the rpms would bob fiercely from 2000-2200 back and forth. Made it hard to drive. The car would jerk violently (due to RPM fluctuations) at like 1/4 throttle and low rpms. I reset the ECU, the CEL went away as it should, but then it still would not idle normally, and now it would do the same thing a I said in the intro, but all the time, turning the car off then on again wouldn't help.

Part II:

Finally I decide I'm taking it back to the dealership (still under warranty) since I was due for an oil change as well. The idiots take the car, reset the ECU, and gave it back to me. I'm like ok. So I drive the car off, and it's still fluctuating. By the next day, the CEL is back. I make another appointment to get it checked out again. Leave the car there this time. This time they said they replaced the IACV and everything was fine... My ***. I get the car back, as I drive it off, the idle IS STILL fluctuating. I didn't get mad because I figured they replaced the IACV, and the CEL hadn't come on for almost a week. But then by the end of the week. It came back.

Part III:

Funny enough Honda was doing some customer serivce survey and so they called and I told them they didn't do a good job, etc. So they said they were gonna take it up with the head guy at the dealership, and they were gonna schedule me to come back again. They haven't called back as far as I know, and I have been busy with work, school, and Sundays the service dept. is closed. So. I'm PISSED. If started the car (warm or cold), let the car idle, it would just sit there seeking between 2k and 1k rpms for about 20 seconds until it settles at the normal idle. Driving it is fine. But occasionally the CEL would come on and it would do the same thing like I stated in Part I.

Part IV:

Same process kept on for almost a month (getting CEL, resetting CEL, getting pissed). So one day I decided to just forget about resetting and went home. Next day, with the CEL still on (remember I didn't bother reseting it), the car did the "seeking then setlle to normal " thing at idle all day, not like when the CEL first came on where it would go back and forth from 2000-2200. So I kept driving it around for the last week or so and it only did the seeking thing. Now, last night I'm at a light, and all of a sudden, the car begins acting like how it does when the CEL FIRST came on (2000-2200 rough idling). So I turn the car off, turn it back on. It kinda eases up. Drive around for a few more minutes, then it happens again. So I just turn it of... let it sit for 5 minutes at a friend's house. Drove home fine last night, drove to work this morning.


Present:

I was doing fine with it till last night. I was going to wait until I had time. But now I'm considering trying to borrow my dad's car this coming week and leaving it with the dealership with the instructions to just fix whatever it is and don't give it back to me till it idles right. But before that I also wanted to get the opinions of a few other people.

Could it be my fault:

Maybe it could be something that was MY fault. I'm going to try to get a stock FPR just to see if maybe that could be the cause (doubt it... I had that long before the problems started). Also someone was telling me that he experienced the same problem when he removed his Zex kit. He said that the tap on the TPS kinda tore up the wire and so it wasn't reading the correct voltage. So he cut it, and soldered the connection back together. I checked my TPS the wire doesn't look cut up, and also. I've removed the nitrous kit way before all this happened. Also, when installing my A/F gauge I had to tap a couple of wires before I realized which wire it was. One looks kinda hacked but it's not bad. But, once again... the problem started way before all this. I'm soooooo lost.


Things I've tried:

-Vacuum Leaks
-Carb cleaner
-TPS sensor (just the wire)
-Different ECU (tried a 00 B16A)
-New IACV (dealership replaced it)

Thing I haven't checked:

-Actual TPS sensor
-FPR

If you want to help me out, reply to this post, or email me or IM me at MemphBlak (AOL/AIM), CivicRyda2k (Yahoo), 6605258 (ICQ). Thanks.

Marc

DragII

there is no way I'm reading all that...sum it up for me.

M.A.R.C.

my idle is fucked up...

DX Generation

If your idle is revving up and down constantly, it could be your TPS. I'm saying this because a customer came into the shop with the same problem recently, and it was his TPS. So check the actual sensor, it may be shot. Hope that helps.

SpeedRacerEX-R

Just replace your IACV. I had the EXACT same problem. Replaced it and now it's fine. When you take it off, try to blow through the coolant inputs. If you can't, then the plunger is stuck. That's just my 2 cents.

M.A.R.C.

Well it doesn't move up and down CONSTANTLY. But like if I'm at idle and I revv the car, when the RPM needle is coming back down it drops then jumps up a little the kinda goes up and down a little, then settles at idle. I checked the voltage on the TPS and it's fine (0.5-4.5). Also, you hear like the IACV when u do this. I posted videos of the car idling/driving, etc if that can help.

M.A.R.C.

Dealer already replaced it. Funny though how as I got in the car to drive it off... it was still idling bad. The only reason I didn't turn right back around and curse them out was because I had to head to school and I really haven't had time to go back. I'm gonna try on Monday though since I'm off that day and don't work till 3. I might try a different dealer too.

I took it off yesterday. When you save to blow thru the coolant inputs, you mean the port with the mesh in it, and the port next to it?

M.A.R.C.

I'm posting some vids of how my car idles. Peep them then tell me what u think.
this is a normal start up, well... not normal but when I say that I mean no CEL. The car was already warm. The only difference if the start is from cold is that it stays at around 1500 or 2000 rpm (can't remember which one) for a while:
http://www.tiora.net/~civicryda2k/Vi.../normstart.avi

taken right after rolling to a stop (the car idles at 1500 while rolling until COMPLETELY stopped... then it does what is shown in this video). then the motor is revved. Again, the car was already warm. Notice how it goes up normally when on the throttle, but when I come off, it drops quickly and drops low then jumps back up:
http://www.tiora.net/~civicryda2k/Vi...e/normrevv.avi

This is a video of how the car acts just as the CEL comes on (code 14: IACV):
http://www.tiora.net/~civicryda2k/Vi...initialcel.avi

This is how the car starts up from with the CEL on (after turning the car off then on again or just driving it with the CEL on for a while):
http://www.tiora.net/~civicryda2k/Vi...e/celstart.avi

sitting at idle, a short drive, then rolling to a stop. as u see the rpms drop and then jump back and stick to 1500... that's right when i put the car in neutral. In the end where it kinda goes down then settles is when the car is at a complete stop.
http://www.tiora.net/~civicryda2k/Vi...le/celroll.avi

That's it... hoping this helps someone find out what's the problem. Any problems with the links you can go to the vids directly here: http://www.tiora.net/~civicryda2k/

Black_eh2

it's the fast idle valve :
it's a valve directly underneath the throttle body - it's actually attached to it on th underside of the throttle body): there's a plastic piece in it that backs out and only makes the idle worse...... take it out, open it up and see - there's also a spring in it that can break too...): if thwhite plastic piece has backed itself out, then take it out, put some Hondabond on it and screw it back in so it won't back out again.... usually when this is loose it's revs up and down .... screw this back tiiiiite and your set to go.


[Modified by SleeperEG6, 10:17 AM 5/10/2002]

M.A.R.C.

OK Thanks. I'll try it when I get home. Not doubting that you're right or anything but would this be the cause of the IACV check engine light (code: 14 - Electronic Air Control/Idle Air Control Valve)?

SpeedRacerEX-R

Yeah, sleeperEG's probably right. I didn't read your book the last time I posted. That's weird that it still trips the code though. Almost sounds like air in the coolant. Strange.

M.A.R.C.

hehehe my book... ya i dunno man I'm stumped. it doubt it's air in the coolant either. The thing is... the car almsot drives like an auto! like unless u FLOOR the brakes, the car won't stall. At a light, once I get the car rolling, I can pretty much roll it along (like an auto) without giving it gas. Like the point of stalling is much lower in the rpms now or something. Weird.

M.A.R.C.

I just thought of something... when the idle problems FIRST started... it would only idle bad if i ran the car hard.