LSVTEC426

Assume there's no difficulty in acquiring either engine nor putting it in. Assume both are bone stock. Which would you prefer to boost if you have no plans on modifying the internals at all?

Archidictus

D16A6 VTEC?

If those are your choices, the Y8 is the best option. If you were able to source a Z6, I'd go with that instead, but since it's not on your list, I'm assuming you can't get one.

LSVTEC426

D16A6 SOHC VTEC.

Versus D16Y7? 'cause we def. just found a bone-stock one with 40,000 mi on it, but already have the D16A6.

And we can get a Y8 head to bolt onto the Y7 if that'd work better?

97Ej6mike

Where is the D16a6 from again?

LSVTEC426

They're from like an OBD-0 Si.

JDMFantasy2k

Y8+ boost FTW

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC426 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D16A6 SOHC VTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The D16A6 is not a VTEC engine, dude. Either you're thinking of a D16Z6 (OBD1) or you have a mini-me swapped A6.

http://hondaswap.com/reference...29128/

b20vtecturbe

d16y8 boosted great choice

hatchnideas

z6 for boost all the way. unless you build it then it really doesnt matter anymore what engine you use.

LSVTEC426

1) to the guy above: Def. didn't say anything about a z6.

2) meh, i saw somewhere that a D16A6 had vtec? I think it was a 1991 Si.

Either way, I'm just worried about which to boost.

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC426 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) to the guy above: Def. didn't say anything about a z6.

2) meh, i saw somewhere that a D16A6 had vtec? I think it was a 1991 Si.

Either way, I'm just worried about which to boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The A6 is not and never has been a VTEC engine. Yes, they came in Si CRXs, but they were 108hp/100tq weaksauce motors. Nothing special about them at all.

Boost a Y8 and be done with it. It has the best intake manifold, the best transmission and the best flowing head of your choices.

hatchnideas

negatory on the y8 transmission. steel shift forks bend and tear you tranny to bits. aluminum breaks and only destroys a few parts. plus gearing is very similar. a6 is fine for boost but indeed never had vtec. just look on the head, see a vtec solenoid? nope. and you can boost any d series, some just take it better than others. the 1.6 engines have a broader amount of aftermarket support unlike the 1.5s. id say if the a6 is already in your hands id say build it and boost it and be done. i know of a few quick turbo'd a6's

what car would it be going into anyways?

Archidictus

I've never had any trouble with Y8 transmissions destroying themselves.

hatchnideas

ah but when they go, they go badly. ive seen the difference between the 92-95 and 96-00 trannies breaking... the y8's look like they just tore themselves to pieces while the z6 shifter fork broke but ended up just sitting where it broke off difference of a couple hundred bucks in repairs easy

Archidictus

I guess I've never worried about it since I get Z6 and Y8 transmissions for $100 a pop. No need to repair something that cheap.

hatchnideas

lol

Archidictus

LSVTEC426

How do I identify the tranny model in the car now? It's def. a d-series, but the history of the car is somewhat unknown.

Also, what is the best d-series tranny of them all?


[off topic]
By the way, my boy said that a D15B with the CVT would theoretically be awesome with a turbo b/c it always stays in boost due to the CVT. Now this is assuming it could handle the power (which it probably can't) but is that true? He said it would rev to best power spot n' just stay there while I accelerated.

--&gt;&gt; http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cvt5.htm &lt;&lt;-- [example]


Modified by LSVTEC426 at 5:56 PM 6/27/2007

JDMFantasy2k

do the tranny differences really matter? We're not talking about NSX drivetrains here, they're dammed D16 transmissions. Who cares if one has shift forks made of twinkies, if it eats itself you can have be driving in another day with a hundred bucks, and a few hours with nothing to do. Do what's easiest, and or cheapest. /End thread.

schardbody

of the options you listed i would opt for the a6 ANYDAY, Y motors have weak oil pumps, usually lasting 100k miles or less.

a6 on the otherhand cheaper (you already have it too), easier to find parts for (SOOOOOOO many EF's in the junkyards). and once boosted the vtec isnt going to make more than a few HP more.

if you would have thrown z6 in there it would have been my vote though.

LSVTEC426

reason i was going to swap to a Y, was because local shop told me stock for stock the y's have stronger rods and handle boost better

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">of the options you listed i would opt for the a6 ANYDAY, Y motors have weak oil pumps, usually lasting 100k miles or less.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's an outright lie. "Usually" suggests that the majority of D16Y_ engines must have their oil pumps replaced and/or serviced at or before 100k. This is simply not the case. The oil pump is more fragile than the A6/Z6 unit, yes, but it's plenty strong to hold up to 10psi, even daily driven. I know people who have clocked 40k and more on bone stock boosted Y8s without so much as a hint of an oil pressure issue.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and once boosted the vtec isnt going to make more than a few HP more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The VTEC heads flow WAY better in addition to having the added lift and duration of VTEC. Again, you are incorrect - unless by "a few HP more" you meant like 30-40 to the wheels at the same boost level.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC426 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, what is the best d-series tranny of them all?

By the way, my boy said that a D15B with the CVT would theoretically be awesome with a turbo b/c it always stays in boost due to the CVT. Now this is assuming it could handle the power (which it probably can't) but is that true? He said it would rev to best power spot n' just stay there while I accelerated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Z6/Y8 transmission gives the best gearing (the Y8 is just slightly shorter) and the Y8 has steel shift forks. Whether or not the shift forks are going to make a difference in your setup, no one can say. I say get whichever one you can find cheap.

As to the CVT, if you want an automatic transmission, you might as well not even boost your car. Honda automatics are fragile and they soak up a lot of power through internal friction and torsional losses. Technically, a CVT could be designed to be a badass addition to a boosted setup - I think some Audi cars use them, actually - but none of the ones Honda makes will suit.

schardbody

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's an outright lie. "Usually" suggests that the majority of D16Y_ engines must have their oil pumps replaced and/or serviced at or before 100k. This is simply not the case. The oil pump is more fragile than the A6/Z6 unit, yes, but it's plenty strong to hold up to 10psi, even daily driven. I know people who have clocked 40k and more on bone stock boosted Y8s without so much as a hint of an oil pressure issue.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok you lost me, im not saying that the Y motors oil pump cant handle boost, im saying it cant handle normal driving, and are KNOWN to crap out around 100k miles on a STOCK car. once upgraded to a toga they are probably fine, but its a big risk to me.

oh, and vtec is NOT going to add 30-40whp over a non vtec head even if all other variables are the same.

LSVTEC426

Thanks for the feedback man. No i dont want to run an auto tranny it was just the theory, and i figured it would be weak, but the concept was there. So i think after all i got from this thread im going to go with the y7 that i found and put the y8 head on it. Would you recommend using arp head studs no matter what on this build?? Its going to be boosted 8 psi and daily driven.

hatchnideas

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC426 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do I identify the tranny model in the car now? It's def. a d-series, but the history of the car is somewhat unknown.

Also, what is the best d-series tranny of them all?
Modified by LSVTEC426 at 5:56 PM 6/27/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

well there is either an s40(96-00) or s20(92-95) marking. and then there is a small round stamp by the fill plug that will say B0000. thats the one you want. if it says A000 ditch it because its either a dx/lx/cx etc and has looooonnggg gears. and as for the y8 head being so badass, you can port the y7 head and drop a cam in and make up that difference quickly. vtec on higher boost levels really doesnt do much. again what car is this going into? because you also have to think about obd conversions... and is the tranny hydraulic or cable?