jvspimpstud

So here is the deal I have a 95 Honda Civic DX Hatch, it has a rebuilt D15b7 1.5 SOHC NON-Vtec and new clutch plus a bunch of power adders, such as full intake, aluminum IPT intake manifold along with IPT injectors, their same cc as stock just allow more flow if chipped, this does have stock computer in it as well, has performance spark plugs, can’t remember the level but their gaped according to car specs, vacuum on this is strong and in target range, 2 inch exhaust with cat back so it’s getting the back pressure it needs but flow is more since intake and all that has been upgraded, so I’m explaining all of this so I don’t get any dumb answers to what I’m about to ask and so you realize I have a understanding of cars somewhat.

So my problem is that even with all these power adders this car runs a lot slower than it should, now granted I know this car doesn’t respond to power adders a lot but if done right it should run with more power like any car does with these mods. So it bogs under full throttle, rev limit is at 5500 instead at the est. 6400-6800rpm that most people say they get with the motor, it gets around 25-30 mpg which isn’t anything to complain on but should get better being that it was rebuilt and I don’t drive it hard since the power isn’t there right now. So it’s coming down to distributor/cap/coil and timing is what I’m thinking also maybe MAF sensor possibly if it doesn’t know how to handle all the air but still considering the other stuff because of the rev limiter being so low, another computer from same motor has been tried out with car and nothing has changed, so thinking timing is what went wrong when the people rebuilt the car so if anyone can please tell me what I should be doing like testing the distributor or check cap, or timing gun stuff or MAF senor stuff I would be greatly appreciative! Also check engine light has been tested and works if there is a problem with sensors, although it does have a splice wire running from one of the wires on the computer if need to know which to maybe find more answer I can find out.
please email because I barely know how to use this site just need quick answers
jvspimpstud1@yahoo.com

Dioxine

When you say the rev limit is at 5400 instead of 6400, do you mean it loses all power or revlimits, like fuel cutting.

wholesaler

hook up some nitrous

MrRush

Its a b7... it has no power to begin with, what is it like 110hp at most ,which is like 75-85hp to the wheels. With All those "power adders" that you have probably bumped it up to like 90-95hp to the wheels (if your lucky) . Im not sure what the factory red line is on your motor but 5500 seems low. Plus most honda 4cyl dont make decent power until higher rpm's.
If your hell bent on keeping the b7 and want more power ,i say at the least get your timing checked, get the ecu chipped and get your car tuned.

stickboks

first off your correct in saying the motor wont respond well to power adders. it MIGHT when you use a classic I/H/E combo, but even then for the $ vs power gain...meh. even if a motor is rebuilt that does not guarantee better gas mileage. id bet that its those new injectors that replaced the more than adequate oem parts. check your timing with a gun.
you probably dont have data logging, but if you did youd be able to pin point that hiccup in the pulse (i mean if thats even it)
go to tunewithcrome.com download that free ****, load a .bin and check out all the cool settings you can mess with from your laptop. (its a lot of reading and time and **** you gotta put in man, because if not you can seriously **** your engine up. if you aint up for it dont kid yourself.) i mean goddamn "tuning" with the free version of CROME is guessing but still better than just slapping in a chip and calling it a day...or not i dunno i like to mess with my ****.
it might be your TAC i mean...i kinda laughed when i thought if it but you have a dx yea? well i dont know much (i have a d16z6) about your engine but i dont think a d15b7 revs to almost 7k (someone correct me if im wrong please, seriously i dont know know.) 5500 sounds about right. MAYBE someone took out your gauge cluster and replaced the tach face with one from a different civic..you know hahahaaa just to **** with you. ohh god that would be funny and ****ed up.

well if it comes down to a dizzy cap and coil...replace it. i mean order one from your auto store. use it, if it works dope. if not then return it! get cho money back son.
using a new ecu wont do **** because if you need a new ecu for a "bog under full throttle" then **** honda. you know? haha besides my ecu is rugged as **** ive dropped it, spilled bong water on it, its been out on the passenger side floor like the whole summer because i was too lazy to use a bolt to hold it in the kick panel. it never had the metal cover on the top, i just thought it looked cooler without it on? i hooked up some connections wrong the damn things started to smoke.. i dont know what resistor/diode thing broke and i never replaced it. i havent noticed any issues with anything. ecu=rugged, never forget.

you said "when people rebuilt the car". so did you buy the car with all the "power adders" already or did you put them in piece by piece over time, and then have the motor rebuilt? did you drop it off at a shop have your motor done and then the motor runs like a pile of crap? did it happen suddenly? did you rev the **** out of it and she dont ride the 2am asphalt like she used ta?

if you dont know how to use this site and just want quick answers then. **** ME your not even gonna read this damn post. plus there are no easy answers on honda-tech unless you can use the search feature. EVERYTHING has been covered hundreds of times WITH pictures. NO EXCUSES. what do you mean you dont know how to use the site? its a forum. youve probably had the internet your entire life and this site is the one that confuses you. come on.

thats pretty much everything welcome to honda tech

jbpnoman

Chipping and tuning is a waste of money on a stock motor with mild bolt-ons. Just accept the fact that you drive an econo-box, and you won't get noticeable power gains without boost, serious motor work, or a swap. USDM civics, especially the 96-98 years lacking in an Si, were made for gas mileage, not speed or beauty.

HondaPartsHero

As stated above does it lose power or hit a rev limiter? You need to check and see when the last tune up was done (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter). Also check ignition timing. Post a pic of your engine bay as well to see if anything else looks out of place.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

None of the items you have installed adds power. None. You MIGHT get 10-12hp out of the whole thing. In essence you are still driving a stock car. They really have nothing to do with your issue.

Have you tried swapping back in the stock injectors? The ones you have in there are a waste.

jvspimpstud

Common now its not the tach do u really think i wouldn't notice that? anyways that has been swapped regardless cuzz of a light mod i did in the new one i got (didn't want to put lights in the one i was using wen i had a spare cluster gauge laying around) also wen i swapped it rpms did not change so plz don't be like ohh well it might of just been the one that u swapped, like i dont miss the obvious stuff, im dealing with more technical problem here not simple ****, anyways rev is way past 5500 if you dont no what the redline is of this car dont reply on this post saying u think that's right anyways, i don't drive a 4 cyl saturn this honda it goes wayy higher, the parts came into the car and they all work properly, IPT injectors plus fuel rail, and intake mani aren't **** bud sry they arent skunk 2 or some expensive brand as well they help me out during these time I add bigger cold air intakes also to the person who said they come in hondas stock, well who doesn't know that the point is that i got the upgraded parts, IPT has performance parts look on their site you can buy upgrade parts for this car, my ipt stuff compared to a stock honda's ipt **** is noticeable, also im not gonna chip a 1.5 unless its turbo'd and the vtech version, i know just as much as u guys wen it comes to this motor, I know it doesn't create that much horse and what it does and doesnt do, the point is that a stock honda same everything as mine besides performance ipt ****, felt quicker and more responsive along with revved higher than mine which made me realize mine really just isnt running perfect. Anyways i do appreciate all the replies and sry if i got onto anyways back i just figured i was going to get a bunch of dumb replies i just wanted to see how good the ppl on this site were.. found my problem though for, sure spent a little time adjusted my dizzy for awhile and car running noticeably better (check inside of dizzy and rotor and cap are worn might as well get a performance kit) and redline is higher (redline does feel like fuel cut to whomever asked) anyways plan on getting a msd dizzy kit and should fix everything once timed accurately, thanks everyone though, also some of you work on your manors though unless you are actually dealing with a dumb person who cant figure out a tach haha!

(i realize my spelling, grammar, and whatever else you can think of is not correct, if you were able to understand what i have said throughout the paragraph then you have nothing to complain about)

redm3turbo

I think I found the problem....

10-20hp you aren't going to notice.....and a DX hatch is the worst platform to start with. You'd have saved money and had more luck throwing a D16z6 / Y8 in there and getting rid of weight, it'd be FAR from fast though

flmzero13

lol

Former User

Bad start here. Some attitude adjustment is in order. Thread closed.

By the way, the stock D15b7 engine/ECU fuel cut at 5800 rpm.