Painting Interior pieces
10-01-2005, 06:35 AM
#1
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Painting Interior pieces
I looked in the FAQ bu they only had one for how to remove paint and nothing of my sort came up during the Search, does anyoneknow where there is a DIY writeup of this?
10-01-2005, 07:05 AM
#2
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Re: Painting Interior pieces (97civicek)
most people here are gonna tell you not to paint the interior pieces, the reason being it will crack and flake away.
my friend painted his and within a week it was coming off.
if you are gonna do it however, take the time to do it right.
my suggestion is if you want ur interior a diff color, buy them already colored
my friend painted his and within a week it was coming off.
if you are gonna do it however, take the time to do it right.
my suggestion is if you want ur interior a diff color, buy them already colored
10-01-2005, 08:19 AM
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Re: Painting Interior pieces (97civicek)
i was watching horsepower tv this morning and they painted interior plastice peices....they took the peices out, cleaned them with a soapy solution...and then wiped them down with laqare thinner. The last step was they used a special dye paint in a can. i think you can get it at any hardware store....just make sure it will stick to plasic. i've never done it or known anyone who did it so i don't know where you could get a write up
10-01-2005, 08:22 AM
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Re: Painting Interior pieces (97civicek)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egsedan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most people here are gonna tell you not to paint the interior pieces, the reason being it will crack and flake away.
my friend painted his and within a week it was coming off.
if you are gonna do it however, take the time to do it right.
my suggestion is if you want ur interior a diff color, buy them already colored</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, don't do it its not worth it, and it will look like *** later.
my friend painted his and within a week it was coming off.
if you are gonna do it however, take the time to do it right.
my suggestion is if you want ur interior a diff color, buy them already colored</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, don't do it its not worth it, and it will look like *** later.
10-01-2005, 08:22 AM
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Re: Painting Interior pieces (Senses Fail y0!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Senses Fail y0! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go ahead and paint them... if you're a ricer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's his car, let him do what he wants don't be an asshat about it.
Maybe you could use model paint? After all most models are made of plastic. Just an idea.
It's his car, let him do what he wants don't be an asshat about it.
Maybe you could use model paint? After all most models are made of plastic. Just an idea.
10-01-2005, 09:33 AM
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Re: Painting Interior pieces (JDM-EJ1)
You need to get the plastic adhesion promoter from a Automotive paint store. I think its called Bully Dog. I have seen interiors painted last a long time as long as they were done right.
Good luck
Good luck
10-01-2005, 09:43 AM
#7
Re: Painting Interior pieces (Senses Fail y0!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Senses Fail y0! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go ahead and paint them... if you're a ricer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's his car, let him do what he wants don't be an asshat about it.
Maybe you could use model paint? After all most models are made of plastic. Just an idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>
has nothen to do with being an *** its just dumb to paint interior peices..do u like rice is that y ur protecting him?
i agree <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's his car, let him do what he wants don't be an asshat about it.
Maybe you could use model paint? After all most models are made of plastic. Just an idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>
has nothen to do with being an *** its just dumb to paint interior peices..do u like rice is that y ur protecting him?
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10-01-2005, 10:17 AM
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1. Remove all pieces you want to paint.
2. Wash, wash and wash those pieces until they are clean as f*ck. This step is extremely important.
3. For a professional finish, sanding is everything, start with a rough grit (300-400) and work yourself into a higher and higher grit, you want to remove that fake leather grain stamped into the plastic when you do this. You should have no traces of that fake leather grain left when youre done. Finish the sanding process with ultra fine grit. When youre done sanding it will look almost as if you had never sanded it at all. it will just be grainless and a lighter shade from being scuffed up.
4. Once everything is sanded and ready to go, wash, wash, wash and wash it again to get rid of all the dust from the sanding, there will be tons of it.
5. Once the parts have dried completely, lay out a newspaper, rest the parts on them, and have the following materials ready:
Plasti-Kote Sandable Primer (get the gray primer for light colors, and the black primer for dark colors).
- Plasti-Kote color spray paint of your choice.
- Plasti-Kote clear coat of your choice.
- Have some extra sandpaper laying around (wet sanding grit, super fine/Utra fine works just fine).
6. Now with all your materials ready start dusting the piece you paint with the primer. it will take several passes to dust it properly, any gaps, gouges, and scratches in the piece should be filled with a heavy coat of primer, then sanded smooth later.
(After about 3 full coats of primer, lightly sand it down smooth, and wipe it down thoroughly with a clean dry rag. Once you have established a good coat of primer, and filled in imperfections, you are ready to move to the paint itself. Make sure your primer has thoroughly dried before you attempt to sand it or move to the next step, or it will glob up on the sand paper and ruin all your work, or it will bleed into your color paint).
7. Next, again using the dusting method, lay down about 3-4 fully covered coatings of your color. make sure you spray from an even distance if you use a metallic flake paint, or your flakes will not distribute across the surface evenly. avoid runs at all costs. If a run develops, wait for the color coating to dry completely, then sand it out and respray the area with another coat. You should give at least 30 minutes for drying time between each coat, depending on the weather, more time for cold/windy/humid weather, less time for hot/arid weather.
(Once you've finished with the color spray, evaluate the product and make sure there are no imperfections, even small ones will look worse ocne the clearcoat is applied. if you find them, fix them).
8. Now for the final step, using the same steps used above to paint your color, apply your clear, and allow for more drying time. You should put at least 4 coats of clear on to protect the piece from scratches and chips, interior trim pieces tend to take a beating.
9. Once your clear is finished, dried and glossy, evaluate your work again, any runs in the clear can be sanded out with ultra fine grit paper and then you can reclear over it. Once you are satisfied with the outcome, reinstall the pieces and enjoy.
OPTIONAL STEPS:
> If you want a professional looking finish, youll need to wait about a month for the clear coat on the interior pieces to cure completely. You probably noticed the orange peel on the final products, this is the way to get rid of that and make it ultra smooth and highly glossy. The orange peel in sethwas's picture is infact not orange peel, it is the fake leather grain stamped into the plastic, and it has caused the metallic flake to pool up in the low areas, and recede in the high areas. This will not go away when it dries, and the only way to get rid of this effect is to sand smooth and start over.
> The orange peel you should notice (if you followed my instructions), will be in the clear coat, and will be mainly visible when light reflects off of it showing redges in the shiny spots.
> To rectify this unavoidable event, you go to your local autoparts store, but some fine grit cutting compound, and rent a buffer with a fine cloth pad.
> Take some wet sanding grade sandpaper (1600 grit+), wet the piece down and sand lightly at it until youve removed the larger bumps in the clear. Once youve worn them down a good bit, you take the cutting compound, add it to a rag, and start sanding away with that. When youre finished you should notice a completely flat area, with no bumps or orangepeel whatsoever, however your clear coat will have fogged up and made the job look shitty. Have no fear this is where the buffer comes in handy. Take your buffer and begin to buff away at the clear coat, be careful not to overbuff or you will burn through the clear into your paint, just take your time, eventually your clear coat will shine back up like new, but without that pesky orange peel.
2. Wash, wash and wash those pieces until they are clean as f*ck. This step is extremely important.
3. For a professional finish, sanding is everything, start with a rough grit (300-400) and work yourself into a higher and higher grit, you want to remove that fake leather grain stamped into the plastic when you do this. You should have no traces of that fake leather grain left when youre done. Finish the sanding process with ultra fine grit. When youre done sanding it will look almost as if you had never sanded it at all. it will just be grainless and a lighter shade from being scuffed up.
4. Once everything is sanded and ready to go, wash, wash, wash and wash it again to get rid of all the dust from the sanding, there will be tons of it.
5. Once the parts have dried completely, lay out a newspaper, rest the parts on them, and have the following materials ready:
Plasti-Kote Sandable Primer (get the gray primer for light colors, and the black primer for dark colors).
- Plasti-Kote color spray paint of your choice.
- Plasti-Kote clear coat of your choice.
- Have some extra sandpaper laying around (wet sanding grit, super fine/Utra fine works just fine).
6. Now with all your materials ready start dusting the piece you paint with the primer. it will take several passes to dust it properly, any gaps, gouges, and scratches in the piece should be filled with a heavy coat of primer, then sanded smooth later.
(After about 3 full coats of primer, lightly sand it down smooth, and wipe it down thoroughly with a clean dry rag. Once you have established a good coat of primer, and filled in imperfections, you are ready to move to the paint itself. Make sure your primer has thoroughly dried before you attempt to sand it or move to the next step, or it will glob up on the sand paper and ruin all your work, or it will bleed into your color paint).
7. Next, again using the dusting method, lay down about 3-4 fully covered coatings of your color. make sure you spray from an even distance if you use a metallic flake paint, or your flakes will not distribute across the surface evenly. avoid runs at all costs. If a run develops, wait for the color coating to dry completely, then sand it out and respray the area with another coat. You should give at least 30 minutes for drying time between each coat, depending on the weather, more time for cold/windy/humid weather, less time for hot/arid weather.
(Once you've finished with the color spray, evaluate the product and make sure there are no imperfections, even small ones will look worse ocne the clearcoat is applied. if you find them, fix them).
8. Now for the final step, using the same steps used above to paint your color, apply your clear, and allow for more drying time. You should put at least 4 coats of clear on to protect the piece from scratches and chips, interior trim pieces tend to take a beating.
9. Once your clear is finished, dried and glossy, evaluate your work again, any runs in the clear can be sanded out with ultra fine grit paper and then you can reclear over it. Once you are satisfied with the outcome, reinstall the pieces and enjoy.
OPTIONAL STEPS:
> If you want a professional looking finish, youll need to wait about a month for the clear coat on the interior pieces to cure completely. You probably noticed the orange peel on the final products, this is the way to get rid of that and make it ultra smooth and highly glossy. The orange peel in sethwas's picture is infact not orange peel, it is the fake leather grain stamped into the plastic, and it has caused the metallic flake to pool up in the low areas, and recede in the high areas. This will not go away when it dries, and the only way to get rid of this effect is to sand smooth and start over.
> The orange peel you should notice (if you followed my instructions), will be in the clear coat, and will be mainly visible when light reflects off of it showing redges in the shiny spots.
> To rectify this unavoidable event, you go to your local autoparts store, but some fine grit cutting compound, and rent a buffer with a fine cloth pad.
> Take some wet sanding grade sandpaper (1600 grit+), wet the piece down and sand lightly at it until youve removed the larger bumps in the clear. Once youve worn them down a good bit, you take the cutting compound, add it to a rag, and start sanding away with that. When youre finished you should notice a completely flat area, with no bumps or orangepeel whatsoever, however your clear coat will have fogged up and made the job look shitty. Have no fear this is where the buffer comes in handy. Take your buffer and begin to buff away at the clear coat, be careful not to overbuff or you will burn through the clear into your paint, just take your time, eventually your clear coat will shine back up like new, but without that pesky orange peel.
10-01-2005, 10:37 AM
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Re: (C2daIzZle)
^^^^ good write up
cmon guys dont be so negative, why do you assume he is gonna ricew out his car??? i painted a few pieces in my car but they were painted black to match the rest of the black that came stock with the car.
i was sick of the black and gray sceme that honda made, so i got a black headliner and had to rattle can the plastic pieces flat black to match.
just sand and scuff, clean, red scotchbrite pad with comet soap, clean with soap and water, wipe down with laquer thinner, let them dry in the sun, wipe with a tack cloth then spray with either a plastic adheision promoter then paint or use plastic spray paint.
cmon guys dont be so negative, why do you assume he is gonna ricew out his car??? i painted a few pieces in my car but they were painted black to match the rest of the black that came stock with the car.
i was sick of the black and gray sceme that honda made, so i got a black headliner and had to rattle can the plastic pieces flat black to match.
just sand and scuff, clean, red scotchbrite pad with comet soap, clean with soap and water, wipe down with laquer thinner, let them dry in the sun, wipe with a tack cloth then spray with either a plastic adheision promoter then paint or use plastic spray paint.
10-01-2005, 10:01 PM
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Re: (C2daIzZle)
After you do all of your prep work on the pieces b4 you apply the paint wipe down the pieces with DENATURED ALCOHOL it'll help.
10-01-2005, 10:06 PM
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Re: (built562)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by built562 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^^ good write up
cmon guys dont be so negative, why do you assume he is gonna ricew out his car??? i painted a few pieces in my car but they were painted black to match the rest of the black that came stock with the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was wondering.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just sand and scuff, clean, red scotchbrite pad with comet soap, clean with soap and water, wipe down with laquer thinner, let them dry in the sun, wipe with a tack cloth then spray with either a plastic adheision promoter then paint or use plastic spray paint.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I painted some power window switch housings black until I get the $ for some stock black ones. I just used soap, water, brillo pad, and that Krylon Fusion paint. I haven't noticed it acting bad yet, and it almost looks as good as stock.
cmon guys dont be so negative, why do you assume he is gonna ricew out his car??? i painted a few pieces in my car but they were painted black to match the rest of the black that came stock with the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was wondering.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just sand and scuff, clean, red scotchbrite pad with comet soap, clean with soap and water, wipe down with laquer thinner, let them dry in the sun, wipe with a tack cloth then spray with either a plastic adheision promoter then paint or use plastic spray paint.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I painted some power window switch housings black until I get the $ for some stock black ones. I just used soap, water, brillo pad, and that Krylon Fusion paint. I haven't noticed it acting bad yet, and it almost looks as good as stock.
10-02-2005, 01:47 AM
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Re: (C2daIzZle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C2daIzZle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Built562, thank you. Do you have pictures of your painted black interior? I'd be interested in seeing them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no sorry no pics, but i remeber using some cheap flat black from autozone, along with bullydog plastic adheision promoter and primer. its the cheap paint that comes in the blue and white can. but it went on easy and came out greta and it lasted long too.
i just hated the way the civic came with a black dash and gray healdliner and pillars, so i did mine all black, well i had the headliner recovered in black vinyl similar to oem texture and painted the rest, like the pillars and seat belt bolt covers.
no sorry no pics, but i remeber using some cheap flat black from autozone, along with bullydog plastic adheision promoter and primer. its the cheap paint that comes in the blue and white can. but it went on easy and came out greta and it lasted long too.
i just hated the way the civic came with a black dash and gray healdliner and pillars, so i did mine all black, well i had the headliner recovered in black vinyl similar to oem texture and painted the rest, like the pillars and seat belt bolt covers.
10-02-2005, 05:22 AM
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good thread. if he wants to paint interior pieces, let him. i will probably do the same to match interior pieces on my EG to an integra dash.. so this is helpful to me :D
if u can get these pieces OEM in the color u are after, then i would agree that is better than painting though.
if u can get these pieces OEM in the color u are after, then i would agree that is better than painting though.
10-02-2005, 06:03 AM
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Re: (Paul1985)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cypher0117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was watching horsepower tv this morning and they painted interior plastice peices....they took the peices out, cleaned them with a soapy solution...and then wiped them down with laqare thinner. The last step was they used a special dye paint in a can. i think you can get it at any hardware store....just make sure it will stick to plasic. i've never done it or known anyone who did it so i don't know where you could get a write up</TD></TR></TABLE>
when they put them all back in, they tuned it up on the dyno...... -17whp
when they put them all back in, they tuned it up on the dyno...... -17whp
10-02-2005, 11:43 AM
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Re: Painting Interior pieces (97civicek)
they have this special acrylic spray paint for plastics in most stores that sell paint.. just get some fine sand paper and rough up the pieces so the paint sticks smooth... painted mine from light blue to black and it looks great.
10-02-2005, 01:18 PM
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Re: (H-BADGE)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H-BADGE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no such thing as rice!</TD></TR></TABLE>
And even if there was, get over it. We all drive RICE BURNERS!!! Be proud of being a "ricer" because IMO in the Honda scene there is the "ricer" and the "poser", thats it.
Use SEM colorcoat. About $15 a can but well worth it. SEM also makes plastic adhesion promoter as well. I wouldn't use the cheap vinyl dye or spray paint since you will most likely be doing it again in turn wasting $$.. Clean and scuff with 400 grit paper. Just enough to allow for better adhesion. But cleaning is the most important part. Take your time and be patient, everything will turn out good for you.
And even if there was, get over it. We all drive RICE BURNERS!!! Be proud of being a "ricer" because IMO in the Honda scene there is the "ricer" and the "poser", thats it.
Use SEM colorcoat. About $15 a can but well worth it. SEM also makes plastic adhesion promoter as well. I wouldn't use the cheap vinyl dye or spray paint since you will most likely be doing it again in turn wasting $$.. Clean and scuff with 400 grit paper. Just enough to allow for better adhesion. But cleaning is the most important part. Take your time and be patient, everything will turn out good for you.
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