Paint question - Repainting Bumper?
#1
Paint question - Repainting Bumper?
Someone backed into my bumper the other day, hit and run. I guess the person I got the car from had some minor accident in the car and it had a non-OEM bumper that was not primered/prepped before painting. The paint where I was hit is now chipped off and peeling upwards. Is there anyway to touch this up for a few months until I get an entire new paint job or do I have to strip the entire bump and repaint the whole thing?
#2
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Re: Mods: Please read (Ty_)
sand it down smooth. spray some primer on it. wet sand it smooth. spray some duplicolor honda milano red spraypaint (pep-boys) on just the primed area. then wet sand it until its all smooth. the wet sanding of the final coat will take the gloss out of it. just put a few coats of wax. it won't look perfect but it will be sufficent for the time being.
#3
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hey, i had a question in terms of wet sanding. what grit do you use? and what exactly are you suppose to do when you "wet" sand? just wondering. ..maybe it could help this guy out too
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Re: (EJcoupe)
They sell wet sanding kits, but usually somewhere in the neighborhood of 1800-2000 grit paper(maybe more). And for it to be "wet" sanding. You soak the sand paper in water, then sand it while squeezing soapy water or just water onto the spot you are sanding.
#5
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Re: (EJcoupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJcoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey, i had a question in terms of wet sanding. what grit do you use? and what exactly are you suppose to do when you "wet" sand? just wondering. ..maybe it could help this guy out too </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wetsanding is where you have a very fine grit of sandpaper. Like 1500 + and you apply it with water.
Like DOHC said there are kits you could by, i personally dont know how good those kits are but i know they are around. Wet sanding is what you do right before paint, to make sure everything is smooth.
Wetsanding is where you have a very fine grit of sandpaper. Like 1500 + and you apply it with water.
Like DOHC said there are kits you could by, i personally dont know how good those kits are but i know they are around. Wet sanding is what you do right before paint, to make sure everything is smooth.
#6
Re: (Luserkid)
When I helped my dad when he painted when we wet sanded we would start out with 1200 to knock it down, then 1500 and then 2000. But you want to soak your paper in soapy water because the paper will last longer and keep it wet. Then when ou buff use 3M Imperial microfinishing compound then with another buff pad use 3M finess-it then we usually wax the car of if its a dark color use 3M swirl mark remover if there is any buff marks to get out. But when you sand make sure there is no shinny areas otherwise you will leave orange peel and it wont look flat. If you guys want I can take a pic of the right products so you can look for them.
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#8
Re: (92BlackSi)
When using real paint I wet sand with 400-600 grit paper. Also like stated above soapy water is a great idea. It cleans while you sand. One tip I would have given you is to manually peel off all that you can with your hands. Usually if you take off enough to where it doesnt come off easily youll save sanding time.
As for people using 1500-2000 sandpaper, thats used for color sanding. Not for preping for paint. Actually its too fine and in most cases the paint wont stick well to it.
Since most of you will be using spray cans to paint, Id recommend 600-800 sandpaper. Because spray can paint is "watered" down quite a lot just to get it to come out of the spray tip. For example in every can there is about 4 fluid ounces of actual paint. The rest is reducer and either hardener or basecoat binder.
Hope this helps.
Mike!
As for people using 1500-2000 sandpaper, thats used for color sanding. Not for preping for paint. Actually its too fine and in most cases the paint wont stick well to it.
Since most of you will be using spray cans to paint, Id recommend 600-800 sandpaper. Because spray can paint is "watered" down quite a lot just to get it to come out of the spray tip. For example in every can there is about 4 fluid ounces of actual paint. The rest is reducer and either hardener or basecoat binder.
Hope this helps.
Mike!
#12
Re: (Mikerocosms)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikerocosms »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When using real paint I wet sand with 400-600 grit paper. Also like stated above soapy water is a great idea. It cleans while you sand. One tip I would have given you is to manually peel off all that you can with your hands. Usually if you take off enough to where it doesnt come off easily youll save sanding time.
As for people using 1500-2000 sandpaper, thats used for color sanding. Not for preping for paint. Actually its too fine and in most cases the paint wont stick well to it.
Since most of you will be using spray cans to paint, Id recommend 600-800 sandpaper. Because spray can paint is "watered" down quite a lot just to get it to come out of the spray tip. For example in every can there is about 4 fluid ounces of actual paint. The rest is reducer and either hardener or basecoat binder.
Hope this helps.
Mike!</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep.. peel off paint.. wetsand with 400.. primer 2-3 coats.. wetsand 600.. apply spot and glazing putty to any scratches.. wetsand 600.. and you're done with prepping
As for people using 1500-2000 sandpaper, thats used for color sanding. Not for preping for paint. Actually its too fine and in most cases the paint wont stick well to it.
Since most of you will be using spray cans to paint, Id recommend 600-800 sandpaper. Because spray can paint is "watered" down quite a lot just to get it to come out of the spray tip. For example in every can there is about 4 fluid ounces of actual paint. The rest is reducer and either hardener or basecoat binder.
Hope this helps.
Mike!</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep.. peel off paint.. wetsand with 400.. primer 2-3 coats.. wetsand 600.. apply spot and glazing putty to any scratches.. wetsand 600.. and you're done with prepping
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Re: (Ty_)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ty_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mods.. please shed some light... don't make spend 20 days as trial user. I'm getting my wisdom teeth out on friday and a week in bed with no HT sounds kinda lame. </TD></TR></TABLE>
why dont you try private messaging them?
why dont you try private messaging them?
#15
Re: (CivicEX96)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicEX96 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why dont you try private messaging them? </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ty_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Trial is very frustrating as I can't post in GDD/classifieds/etc and cannot send PM's</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why Don't you read the orignal post?
why dont you try private messaging them? </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ty_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Trial is very frustrating as I can't post in GDD/classifieds/etc and cannot send PM's</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why Don't you read the orignal post?
#17
Re: (Mikerocosms)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikerocosms »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im beginning to believe that this thread has less to do with his bumper and more to do with his status.
Mike!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Finally!
Mike!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Finally!
#18
you deserve trial status dude! you tried to scam me.
<FONT COLOR="red">EVERY ONE READ MY POST IN HIS VOUCH THREAD</FONT>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=997895
Modified by xdjoynerx at 9:53 AM 10/7/2004
<FONT COLOR="red">EVERY ONE READ MY POST IN HIS VOUCH THREAD</FONT>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=997895
Modified by xdjoynerx at 9:53 AM 10/7/2004
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