paint job question!!
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
paint job question!!
im planning on painting my car at a local college..
how many base coats and clear coats should i paint to make it last and look clean
like...say... one of mobworks cars??
also..what brand should i get? ppg, dupont..?
we're currently using sherwin williams..but i dont think i want that.
planning on painting it green..
or something flat matte...
gimme some codes..or suggestions.
how many base coats and clear coats should i paint to make it last and look clean
like...say... one of mobworks cars??
also..what brand should i get? ppg, dupont..?
we're currently using sherwin williams..but i dont think i want that.
planning on painting it green..
or something flat matte...
gimme some codes..or suggestions.
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (JDM EJ1 95)
My friend is going to paint his car and his going to put like 3 base coats and then like 5 or 6 clear coats. He wants it that it looks like a damn mirror.
What college are you painted it at?
What college are you painted it at?
#6
Re: (civicdx860)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My friend is going to paint his car and his going to put like 3 base coats and then like 5 or 6 clear coats. He wants it that it looks like a damn mirror.
What college are you painted it at? </TD></TR></TABLE>
1 coat sealer, 2 coats base, 2-3 coats clear.
People get the get the impression that the more clear, the more it will shine but this is not ALWAYS true. Clear is a protective layer to your paint...shooting more than 3 coats of clear will just be a waste of money b/c painting products is not cheap. For you...i think you should shoot 3 coats of clear b/c if you spray it a little dry..there will be enough clear on there to wet sand and buff. JUst becareful when shooting the clear..it tends to be the thoughest part not to have it run but still having a "wet look". How much shines depends on how well you can "finish the paint" with wet sanding and buffing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esoterEK.. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im planning on painting my car at a local college..
how many base coats and clear coats should i paint to make it last and look clean
like...say... one of mobworks cars??
also..what brand should i get? ppg, dupont..?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used to work for a body shop for 2.5 year before i went to college. Anyways, at our body shop we have a ppg system setup, but when i paint my car, i chosed to shoot dupont. I like it a lot better. I feel that the paint flow a bit better and for a intermediate painter like me....i could make the paint flow really well without running and dry spots. I didn't have to wet sand after the paint was done baking..i just buff with fine grit compound. Soo....Dupont for me . The name of company you named are all make good products. Just personal perferences.
What college are you painted it at? </TD></TR></TABLE>
1 coat sealer, 2 coats base, 2-3 coats clear.
People get the get the impression that the more clear, the more it will shine but this is not ALWAYS true. Clear is a protective layer to your paint...shooting more than 3 coats of clear will just be a waste of money b/c painting products is not cheap. For you...i think you should shoot 3 coats of clear b/c if you spray it a little dry..there will be enough clear on there to wet sand and buff. JUst becareful when shooting the clear..it tends to be the thoughest part not to have it run but still having a "wet look". How much shines depends on how well you can "finish the paint" with wet sanding and buffing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esoterEK.. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im planning on painting my car at a local college..
how many base coats and clear coats should i paint to make it last and look clean
like...say... one of mobworks cars??
also..what brand should i get? ppg, dupont..?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used to work for a body shop for 2.5 year before i went to college. Anyways, at our body shop we have a ppg system setup, but when i paint my car, i chosed to shoot dupont. I like it a lot better. I feel that the paint flow a bit better and for a intermediate painter like me....i could make the paint flow really well without running and dry spots. I didn't have to wet sand after the paint was done baking..i just buff with fine grit compound. Soo....Dupont for me . The name of company you named are all make good products. Just personal perferences.
#7
Re: (civicdx860)
If you want it really glossy there is a thing that some painters do and its called a beauty coat. How its done is really simple and it makes the car shine like no other. Its used mainly for kandys. House or Kolors recomends this when painting. But your base down it might be 2 or 3 coats at the most. Then clear your car 4 coats topps. Then wet sand your car with 400 not too hard because you dont want to break through the clear and hit the base coat. Then reclear the car again then sand with 1000 knock all the dust if any out then move to 1200 then 1500. I swear this does make such a difference and if you have the time and money for another gallon of clear its well worth it. I use Limco base coat and Limco LC4100 clear. Limco is Dupont and a gallon of clear is only 100 with hardner and reducer. This clear is actually very clear, some other brands of clear have like a yellowish tint and can change the color ever so slightly. I cant think of the codes but I like black cars and the GM black that came on the impalas is the truest black it has no metalics or other colors added. I plan on painting my car with that when I get a chance. If you need to know anything else about it or would like to see some pics let me know.
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#9
Re: (civicdx860)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicdx860 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so this can be done urself in ur own garage right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can do it outside even...just be ready to spend the next 7 days wet sanding and buffing the dirts/ imprefection out.
You can do it outside even...just be ready to spend the next 7 days wet sanding and buffing the dirts/ imprefection out.
#10
Re: (ProJectCvic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProJectCvic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1 coat sealer, 2 coats base, 2-3 coats clear.
People get the get the impression that the more clear, the more it will shine but this is not ALWAYS true. Clear is a protective layer to your paint...shooting more than 3 coats of clear will just be a waste of money b/c painting products is not cheap. For you...i think you should shoot 3 coats of clear b/c if you spray it a little dry..there will be enough clear on there to wet sand and buff. JUst becareful when shooting the clear..it tends to be the thoughest part not to have it run but still having a "wet look". How much shines depends on how well you can "finish the paint" with wet sanding and buffing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not only a waste of money to just stick hella clear on there but you will have alot of build up and that will make it chip easier and the door jambs gap could become a problem.
1 coat sealer, 2 coats base, 2-3 coats clear.
People get the get the impression that the more clear, the more it will shine but this is not ALWAYS true. Clear is a protective layer to your paint...shooting more than 3 coats of clear will just be a waste of money b/c painting products is not cheap. For you...i think you should shoot 3 coats of clear b/c if you spray it a little dry..there will be enough clear on there to wet sand and buff. JUst becareful when shooting the clear..it tends to be the thoughest part not to have it run but still having a "wet look". How much shines depends on how well you can "finish the paint" with wet sanding and buffing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not only a waste of money to just stick hella clear on there but you will have alot of build up and that will make it chip easier and the door jambs gap could become a problem.
#11
Re: (cappa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cappa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not only a waste of money to just stick hella clear on there but you will have alot of build up and that will make it chip easier and the door jambs gap could become a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES !!!
Not only a waste of money to just stick hella clear on there but you will have alot of build up and that will make it chip easier and the door jambs gap could become a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES !!!
#14
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: You Dont Want nO Problem in New Hoeleans
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Re: (civicdx860)
-youll need a big enough compressor to hold the psi.
-youll need a gun or 2. primer/paint
-youll need a booth with draft. (or youll get trash and dirt and **** on the paint)
-youll need enough lights
-youll need filler/fiberglass/dent hammer/sand block/paper etc.
theres more stuff that i left out, but you get the idea.
hope you have some kind of experience, or youll be wasting a lot of money on supplies and material alone.
might as well let a friend or shop paint it if you have no idea what you're getting into.
-youll need a gun or 2. primer/paint
-youll need a booth with draft. (or youll get trash and dirt and **** on the paint)
-youll need enough lights
-youll need filler/fiberglass/dent hammer/sand block/paper etc.
theres more stuff that i left out, but you get the idea.
hope you have some kind of experience, or youll be wasting a lot of money on supplies and material alone.
might as well let a friend or shop paint it if you have no idea what you're getting into.
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