tecatown2091

alright I swaped the 3 wire to 2 wire iacv that istantly turned that cel off
rewired a universal bosch o2 sensor to the ecu .the code clears then pops up seconds later
my I got
Black-sensor signal-D7
Grey-sensor ground-D11
White-heater control-A6
White-logic ground-A22

The second heater wire is the main question mark. It needs 12v switched. The stock wiring gets it from juction C123 which is to power with key on or running.

A11 (igp1) or A24 (igp2)?

redtherocket

You've got your signal/sensor going to a ground... D11 is a sensor ground..


A22 is also a ground.. Not power..


A6 - Heater control

D7 - Primary O2 Sensor 1 (signal)


I'm not to sure about the power and ground pin outs..

This charts isn't really specific enough to be sure.... http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/wiring.obd2a.htm

Possibly A11 for power?

D11 for ground? Or D12?


You need to do some more research, your doing an excellent job fella!

tecatown2091

I listed the 2 white ones backwards sorry

nub

Put a picture up of your plug with the two white wires, grey and black.

Right now you have:

Black-sensor signal-D7
Grey-sensor ground-D11
White-heater control-A6
White-logic ground-A22

The second heater wire is the main question mark. It needs 12v switched. The stock wiring gets it from juction C123 which is to power with key on or running.

A11 (igp1) or A24 (igp2)?

tecatown2091

i have the right ones posted now

redtherocket

So you got it running with no codes yet?


I was thinking the 12v power came from the harness somewhere..

If you trace the O2 sensor wires up into the harness, the wire for 12v becomes larger, and ties into the harness..


Good call whomever got that one.. Nub or Tecta

tecatown2091

in the stock 5 wire?how far along the .just one more code p0135 and I can hopefully pass smog

nub

He still has P0135. The second heater wire is the question mark. By the diagram what you said is right about it going into the harness and it hits C123 with several other sensors. Just looking for the quick and easy right now. Maybe a more permanent fix for later.

Do you have any ideas RR?

nub

There are solutions for the 5 to 4 wire for OBD1 . I haven't seen anything for OBD2. I'm sure there are other HX owners who could benefit from it.

The only one I found is on carolinahondas. It's from 2011 and the diagram lised is X.

redtherocket

I suppose he could tap into something that gets 12v with "key on"... But I dunno about that.. That's kinda hacking it... A fuse popping idea..


Or try and source out the 12v power from the original 5 wire connector...

A multimeter could tell you..


I don't know if I'm talking out my *** on this post or not because I'm getting confused..


I'm a "hands on" type.

nub

Actually it has been confusing. The difference with the 5 wire and the schematics has made my head hurt.

He has a thread on another site and someone who builds custom mil-spec harnesses confirmed the tie from the the C123 junction to A11 and A24. I've been a member there for years and trust his input completely.

Hopefully tecatown can update this for future users.

redtherocket

I'm interested to see what he does...

And which thread he posts it on this forum...


Do you have a link for his thread in the "other site"?

nub

Maybe he'll update both. I think this one is more short and sweet as far as his main issue with the heater code. What happens when he goes to smog or a ref station is another question.

There's nothing on the other site that actually "confirms" the solution. He didn't throw up a diagram or anything. it's the first reply and is short and to the point. He is well known there for his electrical knowledge though.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...4-wire-o2.html

redtherocket

^^

Thx



Maube after church, tecta will post up his results...