s1ngle

iTrader: (1)

What is a good way to test the proper functioning of a secondary oxygen sensor. I have a 96 civic EX. I measured resistance across the 3rd anf 4th lead, that is within specs (13.3 Ohms), but i am still not certain if it is functioning properly.

Anyone have any knowledge of this?

built562

what makes you think its not working properly.
no CEL and its within specs, its still working IMO.

Cynical 1

Pull the data stream using a scan tool. Should be fluctuating between 0 and 1 volt, ideally between .2 and .8 volt. Should stay at one number no more than a few seconds at a time.

Ricey McRicerton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Revolveu2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pull the data stream using a scan tool. Should be fluctuating between 0 and 1 volt, ideally between .2 and .8 volt. Should stay at one number no more than a few seconds at a time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Also, if you pick up some software for a laptop called AutoEngenuity (I think, I can't spell) you can go in and watch your fuel trim and what all of your sensors are doing. Best money you can spend IMHO. Also lets you check and turn off CELs.

2000CX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, if you pick up some software for a laptop called AutoEngenuity (I think, I can't spell) you can go in and watch your fuel trim and what all of your sensors are doing. Best money you can spend IMHO. Also lets you check and turn off CELs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you need a scan tool to work in unison with this software? sounds like a good investment

Ricey McRicerton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

do you need a scan tool to work in unison with this software? sounds like a good investment </TD></TR></TABLE>
It was right about 200 dollars and it comes with a parallel port attachment to plug into the scan port. Pretty damn awesome. You can datalog and look at EVERY single sensor. I watched my intake temps drop more than 25 degrees when I got my FMIC.

That software + WB02= you can tune if you have half an idea what you're doing.

s1ngle

iTrader: (1)

its the secondary o2 sensor, doesnt that go by resistance instead of voltage?

Ricey McRicerton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s1ngle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its the secondary o2 sensor, doesnt that go by resistance instead of voltage?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried to test my primary to be sure that the heater was working and that was run off of the resistance. I would assume that you are measuring the heater and possibly not what the sensor is seeing. It should be seeing voltage.

s1ngle

iTrader: (1)

eh, I took the sensor off, and tried a test that i read about. I held a propane torch near it while measuring resistance. Resistance went up, however, the sensor was very slow to react and slow to return to normal after i took the torch away. Like, seriously a few minutes to adjust. That makes me think something is wrong.

civicmon

what is your problem exactly?

My o2 sensors were all messed up so I bypassed one and have been crusing around with one of them unhooked and guess what, the car runs a lot better. I have two replacement ones in garage, doing it over spring break this week.

Try that if you suspect a bogging problem

s1ngle

iTrader: (1)

how did you bypass it exactly?

civicmon

unhook it and tape the wires together so they're not connected.

The ECU doesn't get a signal so it doesn't make the proper adjustments - what that means is if the o2 sensor is misreporting what it's reading, it will actually fix the problem. I had heavy bogging under 4k rpms and doing that fixed it. I just did this with the topside o2 and not the underside one, but I have two new ones sitting in the garage till I can do them this week.