KJI

Hi,

My stock 2000 Honda Civic DX has been having random cutting off problems for a while. Sometimes it can go for months without having a problem, and sometimes it has a problem every few days.

There seem to be 3 possibly related problems:

1.The engine occasionally suddenly cuts off at stop lights/stop signs or when I'm driving slower. When it does this happens the radio stays on, but any dash lights on blink off then come back on usually with the battery light.

2. Even more rarely the engine misfires while driving faster (such as on the highway) and loses power. This usually leads to slowing down and sometimes cutting off.

3. After it cuts off it used to not start for minutes to a half hour. In these cases it would take multiple tries to get it to start.

What I've done:
First I took it in for an oil change as it was due. After still having problems I changed the ignition switch due to finding out it was a common cause. After having more problems, I then did a tune-up: air filter, fuel filter, dizzy cap and rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires.

At this point I found that one of the wires were broken. Replacing this seemed to fix the problem for a few months. However, after these few months the problem showed itself again. After this I replaced the spark plug wires with better wires, but still got the problem until summer started. During summer it didn't cut off once... but the problem reemerged after sumer was over.

I then took it into a Honda mechanic. He pulled the codes (P0300-P0304, P0420) and told me to come back when the CEL came on again. I replaced the spark plugs yet again along with the igniter coil and re-crimped the wires connected. This seemed to fix the problem, but only for a few weeks. I guess this did fix the starting problem though, so it now starts back up right away after cutting off.

After it started cutting off again I took it back to Honda mechanic. He pulled codes (only P0420), and told me it needed a new catalytic converter... but that the catalytic converter being messed up only rarely caused it to cut off. I was told that other than that I could only pay to get parts tested at about $90 per part, with most of them probably being okay. I've also read that the catalytic converter most likely got messed up due to all of the starting and misfiring, so with the problem still around it doesn't yet make sense to buy a new one.

Any one have any suggestions? Should I just go ahead and replace the catalytic converter or is there anything else I should check? I should note that I'm in California and it's a bolt on so the catalytic converter is pretty expensive...

david420

If its misfiring could be your fuel injectors, it would be hard for you to check because it has to be misfiring while you check and your car only misfires occasionally. I would get a new distributor if yours is messed up but thats just me, why are they more in CA? I have very little knowledge but since the good people of HT help me Ill give what I have, also search and search some more, someone probably has had this problem.

motegicivic

Don't forget inside the distributor there is the icm, which can be tested as well.

When it happens I would test for spark right away, or does it start up right away?

KJI

Sorry, the references to the distributor at the end of my post should've been "catalytic converter." He told me the catalytic converter is bad and it would cost more in California.

I don't know why I wrote distributor...

It usually does start up right away, and usually if it doesn't it's not somewhere I can easily test at.

motegicivic

Believe it or not a Cat can do that, I have read that an SI had the same issue, but typically a bad cat will trigger a CEL when it is really bad.

Order a cali legal cat online with headers since the dx they are combined if you search there are aftermarket versions, jsut not sure about cali legal, and have a muffler shop install it.

KJI

Well, I am pricing a cat but I keep reading (and I was told by the mechanic) that it probably isn't the primary problem. I keep reading that if the cause isn't fixed the new cat would probably mess up again.

Seems I've experienced all of the symptoms of a bad fuel pump according to these links, so I'm also considering that right now. Then there's the O2 sensor, IACV, MAF sensor, PVC valve, ICM, etc... I almost just want to take it to another mechanic to see if they can actually try and diagnose the problem.

While researching I also remembered that twice or so when it was taking a long time to start it burnt an abnormal amount of oil and produced smoke out of tailpipe. Coolant level was okay, though.

KJI

Well, in the end I decided to take it to an actual Honda dealer for diagnostic and they told me the cat was plugged up and causing back pressure. They said fixing it would most likely solve the problem, then charged me half the normal diagnostic fee because I told them I already knew the Cat was bad.

Now I'm looking at a cheap place to replace cats in California...

david420

Id say your better off buying the cat/header yourself and having someone put it in for you, look on majestic honda or you could go with aftermarket. You could also maybe find one for cheap if someone is parting out their car.

Laven79

I had the same problem. I kept fixing everything because the Dizzy was reading correct. How ever once i replaced the Dizzy problem went away and never came back. Another issue that wasnt helping was my exhaust manifold was cracked on the back side where i couldnt see it. so you might want to check that as well. The Dizzy is a comman issue with hondas though and they often test properly even though they are bad.

lthao61

Do a visual inspection of the internal on the catalytic converter. And then have the cat tested. I've replaced plenty of catalytic converters with the p0420 code. 9/10 it's the correct fix. Run a data stream to see if you upstream/ downstream o2 have any abnormal readings

KJI

Problem is it has to be California legal and it's an exhaust manifold one. I don't think the majestic honda one is california legal.

I'm actually planning to take it to a mechanic who told me he could install a california legal magnaflow for $500, which seems to be about as low as I can buy it for online. The next lowest quotes for this were around $550-$575.

Yeah, I see a few reasons it might be distributor related what with the connector service bulletin, ICM, and igniter being there (as well as cap and rotor). Hoping changing the cat fixes the problem though.

KJI

Welp, replaced the cat and bottom O2 sensor. The inside was all broken and clogged up and they told me it might've affected the sensor. Cost $700 for both, which isn't the cheapest I could've got it done for...

Problem is, a few minutes afterwards it cut off twice in traffic and then a few more times during city driving. No lights have come on yet, though.

motegicivic

700 seems high to me for that, maybe a cali cert is more? After all that still cutting out? How does the car start up? Does it only cut after running, or say at idle?

Still might be distributor related.

Test the coil simple to do, then test the icm in the distributor.


Long shot might be main relay as well.

jbpnoman

Last I checked, Cali-cert cats were ~$150 more than cats for the rest of us. I'm still waiting to see what the difference is. Anyone have some money they want to **** away to buy one of each, and cut them in half for us?

$700 for a shop to do the work, with shop mark-up on the parts, isn't too bad.