igo4bmx

http://www.omnipowerusa.com/Pr...r.asp

just saw this in a magazine today....
look like they designed a new master cylinder which enables faster shifting...

any thoughts about this product?

_Spugen_

Hrmmmmm

e jay one

i would have tried that if it were out a while ago when my clutch mc went out but i think i would be missing shifts if its half the length. thats crazy i really dont see a need for it. is it even for sale yet? how much is it?

splitime

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1241244

PlayDepot

Well the idea is correct. If the piston is bigger it will push more fluid equaling less travel of the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch. But if you push too much fluid out of the master cylender, u risk blowing the seal on the slave cylender. Also who is only going to push the pedal far enough to disengage it, the clutch should be floored when racing anyway, taking the same amount of time, but with even more effort required. OEM imo

Archidictus

MSRP of roughly $220 supposedly. No offense, but **** that

NonovUrbizniz

So I see the one you got was 22mm and they're thinking of marketing either the 20 or 21 or both...

What is the stock master's size...

I'm with "playdepot" though... if you floor the pedal is it going to bust the slave or does it have an altogeter shorter stroke...

IE the pedal sits lower when fully released?

Combustion Contraption

The clutch pedal will be roughly 45% lower , so you will be "flooring it" every time you shift.

Remember all the discussions about short shifters ruining syncros? The problem is that your hand has already gotten the shifter into gear, but your foot still has to travel the same distance to engage the clutch. The "throw" ratio between hand and foot is now off.

As far as MSRP, you know hardly anyone ever sells products at that price. I like the idea and i myself will be giving it a shot. My idea, the quicker you get into gear, the quicker you can accellerate. Drag races are often won by .1 or less, im sure you all know this.

splitime

The stroke is like half that of the OEM one. So far i've beaten the crap outta it (3 track days so far) and have enjoyed it.

Basically.. it fits my desire for less pedal time during shifts.. without short shifter junk.

PlayDepot

Nono, it may infact have a shorter stroke, but, like i said pushing the that much shorter is going to affect the 'effort' required to push the pedal in. The ratio of power to mass is different than with the stock master. So its going to be alot more difficult on daily driving when u dont have alot of space to ease the clutch. Like i said, as long as you can floor the clutch ur fine. Just retime the ur shift/pedal steps. Not to difficult.

Combustion Contraption

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PlayDepot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nono, it may infact have a shorter stroke, but, like i said pushing the that much shorter is going to affect the 'effort' required to push the pedal in. The ratio of power to mass is different than with the stock master. So its going to be alot more difficult on daily driving when u dont have alot of space to ease the clutch. Like i said, as long as you can floor the clutch ur fine. Just retime the ur shift/pedal steps. Not to difficult. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree with this. Im expecting the pedal feel to get a bit stiffer, but i dont think its going to be linear with how much the throw has been reduced.

igo4bmx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stroke is like half that of the OEM one. So far i've beaten the crap outta it (3 track days so far) and have enjoyed it.

Basically.. it fits my desire for less pedal time during shifts.. without short shifter junk.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice review...
it seems like a very neat product and kudos to omnipower for thinking of something new

PlayDepot

Well think about it, Ill bet i synchronize my shift just as well as some one with the new master. All you have to do is know when to shift and be quick on the pedal. I dont mean to brag but i can shift and alot of my friends marvel how quick i am on the shift.

Combustion Contraption

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PlayDepot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I dont mean to brag </TD></TR></TABLE>

But you are.

Think about this though. When actually racing, whether it be drag strip or circuit, in the heat of the moment to leave the shift up to human error when the adrenaline rush is on, , youre more likely to miss your perfectly well synchronized shift. wouldnt you rather just have a system that eases the burden on the driver?

PlayDepot

Ahh but with a short throw that only leaves room for more error, when you reduce the amount of space to shift you could more easily hit the wrong gear, especially when you using this master to even more quicken the shift. I dont have a short throw, its almost hard to mis-shift with an oem shifter.

Combustion Contraption

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PlayDepot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> its almost hard to mis-shift with an oem shifter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

The larger piston will displace more fluid per unit of travel. Each unit of travel will now require an equal increase in effort to move said fluid. The end result will require the exact same overall work to get the pedal to the floor. With this new master cylinder, you exchange travel for effort. It's not like your brake system where you can just add a bigger brake booster to help with pedal effort.

PlayDepot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The larger piston will displace more fluid per unit of travel. Each unit of travel will now require an equal increase in effort to move said fluid. The end result will require the exact same overall work to get the pedal to the floor. With this new master cylinder, you exchange travel for effort. It's not like your brake system where you can just add a bigger brake booster to help with pedal effort.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly

NonovUrbizniz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The larger piston will displace more fluid per unit of travel. Each unit of travel will now require an equal increase in effort to move said fluid. The end result will require the exact same overall work to get the pedal to the floor. With this new master cylinder, you exchange travel for effort. It's not like your brake system where you can just add a bigger brake booster to help with pedal effort.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually you can... I won't be able to find the link here... I'll have to ask around for it...

BUT... someone took a geo metro booster (and possibly master (for the brakes of the geo)) and installed it for his clutch... result was next to effortless clutch operation.

I'll try to find the link... but no promises.

spoolingb20

So then what happenes if you jsut adjust your clutch pedal ("the piston rod going into the MC") so that you just have to tap it and your at the engaging point. Not arguing this basically just want to be told otherwise? But do see how internally it will require less action and less fluid movement. As for 220 dollars verses 95 at your local parts store (just replaced mine a week ago) thats double the price...ummmm

NonovUrbizniz

Are you getting a chipmunk high in your avatar????

PlayDepot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you getting a chipmunk high in your avatar????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha! It looks like it

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolingb20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So then what happens if you just adjust your clutch pedal ("the piston rod going into the MC") so that you just have to tap it and your at the engaging point. Not arguing this basically just want to be told otherwise? But do see how internally it will require less action and less fluid movement. As for 220 dollars verses 95 at your local parts store (just replaced mine a week ago) that's double the price...ummmm </TD></TR></TABLE>

That would work, but I would think your throwout & thrust bearings would wear out prematurely since your pressure plate would always have pressure on it (it doesn't instatly release at the first movment of the pressure plate). Remember, all the pressure of your foot gets transferred to the pressure plate. In order for the pressure plate to operate, it has to push on the flywheel. Something has to hold the flywheel steady, and that's the crank. Now what keeps the crank from walking back & forth when we shift, your engines oil pressure between the crank & thrust bearings. If the thrust bearing wears out, your going to get crank walk (and that's bad). It sounds more like a high maintenance drag racing setup.

Discosteak

iTrader: (1)

its worth it just for the 5 year warranty, try to get that from a honda dealer

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

You don't need it when they last 10 years...