Omni Power coilover help with adjusting
#1
Omni Power coilover help with adjusting
OK, so I got the full coilovers intalled on the car. When I try to make them lower, the nut that is supposed to be flush with the shaft raises when I turn the shock body to lower the car with it still in the LCAs. The nut is no longer flush with the shaft. Is this how you are supposed to lower it? I know it says not to adjust from the spring perches, but if you lower it with the shock body, the spring becomes loose and it is no longer pushed up against the pillow mount. So, would you just take it out of the LCAs and shock forks to spin the bottom gold piece so it doesnt mess up the preloading or the flushness of the nut?
#2
Re: Omni Power coilover help with adjusting (deviant1)
You description sucks, when you lower the coils yes the springs will be loose in there but as soon as the weight of the cars back on you would never even know.
#3
Re: Omni Power coilover help with adjusting (cappa)
I know, but the point is to have the springs not loose at all. This is why you preload it. So am I to assume to lower it more you have to have loose springs that ARENT preloaded? Keep in mind, I preloaded as the instructions said and the collars were locked. So when I tried lowering like the instructions said, the shaft sunk into the nut making the spring loose again.
#5
ur supposed to tighten the nut back down after ur finished messin with the height therefore preloading em again.
gawd...adjusting these coilovers ain't rocket science. there's been like countless threads on it now
gawd...adjusting these coilovers ain't rocket science. there's been like countless threads on it now
#6
Re: (aZnjCC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aZnjCC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ur supposed to tighten the nut back down after ur finished messin with the height therefore preloading em again.
gawd...adjusting these coilovers ain't rocket science. there's been like countless threads on it now</TD></TR></TABLE>
But you can only lower them so much before the top nut just falls off. The nut stays in one spot while the shaft turns. So even if you did move the spring back up, it seems you can only lower it according to the height of that top nut. Hope that makes sense.
edit - tomorrow I will try not turning the shock body at all. I am going to turn the lower gold colored mounts up.
Modified by deviant1 at 10:08 PM 12/9/2004
gawd...adjusting these coilovers ain't rocket science. there's been like countless threads on it now</TD></TR></TABLE>
But you can only lower them so much before the top nut just falls off. The nut stays in one spot while the shaft turns. So even if you did move the spring back up, it seems you can only lower it according to the height of that top nut. Hope that makes sense.
edit - tomorrow I will try not turning the shock body at all. I am going to turn the lower gold colored mounts up.
Modified by deviant1 at 10:08 PM 12/9/2004
#7
Re: (deviant1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deviant1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
edit - tomorrow I will try not turning the shock body at all. I am going to turn the lower gold colored mounts up.
Modified by deviant1 at 10:08 PM 12/9/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
As far as I can tell, that is what you need to do.. the top nut shouldn't be moving @all. the gold perches are the only thing that should be adjusting the height.
Basically you need to take the gold part off the LCA so it can spin independantly of the shock.. does that make sense?
anyhoo if you have more troubles catch me on AIM
edit - tomorrow I will try not turning the shock body at all. I am going to turn the lower gold colored mounts up.
Modified by deviant1 at 10:08 PM 12/9/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
As far as I can tell, that is what you need to do.. the top nut shouldn't be moving @all. the gold perches are the only thing that should be adjusting the height.
Basically you need to take the gold part off the LCA so it can spin independantly of the shock.. does that make sense?
anyhoo if you have more troubles catch me on AIM
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#8
Re: (FunctionMotoring)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FunctionMotoring »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As far as I can tell, that is what you need to do.. the top nut shouldn't be moving @all. the gold perches are the only thing that should be adjusting the height.
Basically you need to take the gold part off the LCA so it can spin independantly of the shock.. does that make sense?
anyhoo if you have more troubles catch me on AIM </TD></TR></TABLE>
The top nut doesnt move at all but when you turn the whole shock body, like grabbing below the spring perch, the strut shaft/piston spins out of the top nut since the nut itself doesnt move. But anywho, the omni power instructions should be changed to mention the adjustment by means of the gold bottom piece, not the whole shock body. kinda sucks i have to take it out of the LCA to adjust it.
As far as I can tell, that is what you need to do.. the top nut shouldn't be moving @all. the gold perches are the only thing that should be adjusting the height.
Basically you need to take the gold part off the LCA so it can spin independantly of the shock.. does that make sense?
anyhoo if you have more troubles catch me on AIM </TD></TR></TABLE>
The top nut doesnt move at all but when you turn the whole shock body, like grabbing below the spring perch, the strut shaft/piston spins out of the top nut since the nut itself doesnt move. But anywho, the omni power instructions should be changed to mention the adjustment by means of the gold bottom piece, not the whole shock body. kinda sucks i have to take it out of the LCA to adjust it.
#10
Re: (deviant1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deviant1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The top nut doesnt move at all but when you turn the whole shock body, like grabbing below the spring perch, the strut shaft/piston spins out of the top nut since the nut itself doesnt move. But anywho, the omni power instructions should be changed to mention the adjustment by means of the gold bottom piece, not the whole shock body. kinda sucks i have to take it out of the LCA to adjust it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hrm.. w/out being there I can't visualize exactly what's going on. You may not need to take it out of the LCA to adjust it neccessarily, but w/the other issues are w/the topmount moving it seems to me that would be the easiest way.
The top nut doesnt move at all but when you turn the whole shock body, like grabbing below the spring perch, the strut shaft/piston spins out of the top nut since the nut itself doesnt move. But anywho, the omni power instructions should be changed to mention the adjustment by means of the gold bottom piece, not the whole shock body. kinda sucks i have to take it out of the LCA to adjust it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hrm.. w/out being there I can't visualize exactly what's going on. You may not need to take it out of the LCA to adjust it neccessarily, but w/the other issues are w/the topmount moving it seems to me that would be the easiest way.
#11
Re: (deviant1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deviant1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The top nut doesnt move at all but when you turn the whole shock body, like grabbing below the spring perch, the strut shaft/piston spins out of the top nut since the nut itself doesnt move. But anywho, the omni power instructions should be changed to mention the adjustment by means of the gold bottom piece, not the whole shock body. kinda sucks i have to take it out of the LCA to adjust it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I get what you're saying now, the nut even tho it's flush with the top of the shaft, is still in contact with the body of the car. so when u turn the body of the shock, the shaft is gettin threaded thru the nut. You need to make sure that the nut does not stick to the body of the car, and that it will not thread. What I do to make sure that doesn't happen is when I turn the shock body, i push up at the same time, so that the nut will rise off and not stick to anything and wont get threaded on or off. i hope this helps. what you can actually do is just take off the nut completely, but just make sure the shaft doesn't fall completely through. then when ur done adjusting, just tighten the nut back on.
The purpose of loosening the nut is to allow the shock body to be able to move. you DO NOT have to adjust by moving the gold part, or take off the LCA's.
The top nut doesnt move at all but when you turn the whole shock body, like grabbing below the spring perch, the strut shaft/piston spins out of the top nut since the nut itself doesnt move. But anywho, the omni power instructions should be changed to mention the adjustment by means of the gold bottom piece, not the whole shock body. kinda sucks i have to take it out of the LCA to adjust it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I get what you're saying now, the nut even tho it's flush with the top of the shaft, is still in contact with the body of the car. so when u turn the body of the shock, the shaft is gettin threaded thru the nut. You need to make sure that the nut does not stick to the body of the car, and that it will not thread. What I do to make sure that doesn't happen is when I turn the shock body, i push up at the same time, so that the nut will rise off and not stick to anything and wont get threaded on or off. i hope this helps. what you can actually do is just take off the nut completely, but just make sure the shaft doesn't fall completely through. then when ur done adjusting, just tighten the nut back on.
The purpose of loosening the nut is to allow the shock body to be able to move. you DO NOT have to adjust by moving the gold part, or take off the LCA's.
#12
Re: (aZnjCC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aZnjCC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I get what you're saying now, the nut even tho it's flush with the top of the shaft, is still in contact with the body of the car. so when u turn the body of the shock, the shaft is gettin threaded thru the nut. You need to make sure that the nut does not stick to the body of the car, and that it will not thread. What I do to make sure that doesn't happen is when I turn the shock body, i push up at the same time, so that the nut will rise off and not stick to anything and wont get threaded on or off. i hope this helps. what you can actually do is just take off the nut completely, but just make sure the shaft doesn't fall completely through. then when ur done adjusting, just tighten the nut back on.
The purpose of loosening the nut is to allow the shock body to be able to move. you DO NOT have to adjust by moving the gold part, or take off the LCA's. </TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly what im talking about!
I get what you're saying now, the nut even tho it's flush with the top of the shaft, is still in contact with the body of the car. so when u turn the body of the shock, the shaft is gettin threaded thru the nut. You need to make sure that the nut does not stick to the body of the car, and that it will not thread. What I do to make sure that doesn't happen is when I turn the shock body, i push up at the same time, so that the nut will rise off and not stick to anything and wont get threaded on or off. i hope this helps. what you can actually do is just take off the nut completely, but just make sure the shaft doesn't fall completely through. then when ur done adjusting, just tighten the nut back on.
The purpose of loosening the nut is to allow the shock body to be able to move. you DO NOT have to adjust by moving the gold part, or take off the LCA's. </TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly what im talking about!
#13
Re: (deviant1)
WTF!!!!!! It worked fine on my driver side but the passenger side refuses to go any lower. When i couldnt lower it anymore, i move the spring down for some extra room to keep turning the shock body and it just wont budge. Theres about 1.5 to 2 inches of threading theft between the spring perches and the lower lock collar. I even tried turing the golden bottom piece by itself and it wont budge in any direction now. WTF am I doing wrong?
#15
Re: (JDM BoI)
Since nothing moved at all, i lowered it by the spring perches like 1/2 inch. Hopefully it shouldn't take that much travel away. I noticed tonight after driving it, that side is lower now so tomorrow ill have to raise that corner up. Initial impressions, sweet. Bumps dont make the entire front end go up and down anymore. A lot smoother. But since the rates are high, going around 35ish on a road, you feel quite a bit more dips and bumps. Sometimes, I think the rear bounces a little too much. But turning is quite improved. It stays pretty flat in corners. Turn in seems to be sharper, go figure.
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