Brandon04GT

Hey guys,

I drive a 98 LX, 4dr, auto, with around 130k miles the clock. I am trying to deal with a couple issues right now and one of them is that the oil pan gasket is seeping oil. I decided to put it off until my next oil change and now that oil change is overdue so i'm looking to do this soon.

I just wanted to make sure I will have everything needed for the job. So far what I know I need is:

1. A new oil pan gasket (I'm planning on buying a Fel-pro one from the local store)
2. Silicone gasket seal, do I have to buy the "Hondabond" one or can I use another kind?
3. A new exhaust flange gasket.


Is there anything else I would need apart from common sockets and wrenches? Any other tips that can help me?

I'm guessing the exhaust bolts will be a PITA so I'll try to make sure I have some PB Blaster on hand.

I downloaded a Honda shop manual and the last time I looked at it, it said something about having to use the silicone seal on a few portions of the oil pan and to apply it above and below the gasket to ensure a better seal?



Thanks,
Brandon

furious94ls

If you only want to do this once, I advise on going to Honda, or ordering an OEM oil pan gasket from Majestic honda and get some hondabond. I had my Acura tech friend do mine. A new exhaust gasket wasn't needed.

Be sure to be easy when tightening the oil pan bolts. I think they are 7lbs.

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

I think Fel-Pro is fine but an OE gasket is ideal. You can use a regular
silicone like Permatex, but Hondabonda is recommended. You can usually
find cheaper small tubes of Hondabonda for sale at ATV shops. Sometimes
much cheaper than from the dealer.


Park the car where you plan on doing the work and let it sit over night.
That way you won't have oil dripping out like crazy when you pull off the
oil pan. Even if you start it an move it real quick oil will drip for hours.


To reduce the chance of leaks, it's best to wait until the sealant is dry
before driving the car (credit goes to 94EG8 for that tip).

Brandon04GT

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'm gonna pick up the OEM gasket and Hondabond.

In a nutshell, do I basically just need to remove the chassis stiffener and exhaust pipe before the oil pan can be removed? any specific tools I might need? Only asking because I will probably be doing this myself and so I want to make sure I have everything otherwise I will be SOL if I discover I am missing something halfway through.

I don't own too many tools at the moment. Right now I basically only have like 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" wrenches with a row of sockets for each of them as well as 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches.


Thanks

ehrkeith

You definitely have more than enough to accomplish this, all you need is a 12mm,10mm, and maybe a small extension.

When I did my oil pan I put black RTV down first then put the gasket on and installed on the car. Its the only thing not leaking on my motor lol.

Although its common sense be easy on the oil pan mating surfaces if it gets bent your pretty much f'd.

Brandon04GT

Easy enough, thanks!

Hopefully I can get it done before the week is out. I heard the oil pan bolts need to be torqued down in like a three step sequence with a final setting of like 8.7 lb/ft. I don't have a torque wrench that will reliably go that low and the Harbor Freight one seems to have really bad reviews so i'm just gonna try and do it by hand.

I take it if I just use my 1/4" wrench and turn the bolt until it stops turning freely and then give it a final tight snug, that should suffice.

furious94ls

Find a short pipe that can go over your rachet (breaker bar) for the exhaust bolts if they give you a tough time. As stated earlier let the car sit overnight ( might be a good idea to let the oil drain out overnight as well)

Glad to see you're gonna go with the OEM gasket. They are high quality and have 100% fitment and last a really long time. Search on here or google the process and you will see how they have to get tightened. Good luck and post back.

98civdx

Skip the PB blaster and pick up a can of AreoKroil! it's a bit more expensive, but works very very well.

The exhuast can be a pita, but they really aren't that bad. It seems like you have it covered, but remember to clean the surface of the block were the new gasket will sit.

As always, when you are under there spend a little time to check for other leaks!

Brandon04GT

Thanks for the tips guys. Draining the oil overnight sounds like a good idea.

Wow, I just called a local Honda stealership and they quoted me $45 for the gasket and $20 for the Hondabond. Sounds a bit high to me. I guess i'll have to try and find it online somewhere. Anyone know where is the best place? I am having a hard time finding it on the Majestic site because it is hard to navigate it unless you have a part number.

Former User

I used red Permatex RTV silicone sealant and a Felpro gasket - no leaks for a couple of years now.

Also torque the nuts and bolts to spec in multiple rounds in the correct sequence. Don't over torque or you will definitely get an oil leak.

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

And a Fel-Pro gasket is fine, probably cheaper too. It's a brand many people trust.
I mostly use Fel-Pro stuff.

Brandon04GT

Which Permatex RTV silicone sealant is best to use? I see two of them that seem to fit the bill:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...one_Gasket.htm

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

Oil pan gasket is #7:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...LOCK+-+OIL+PAN

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

Both are good.

Former User

I've used red with success, but the black looks fine also. By the way, you only need to apply the sealant to the junctions between flat and curved areas.

Brandon04GT

Thanks. The only thing I am unsure about is exactly where to apply the sealant. You said the junctions between the flat and curved areas. Do you mean to apply it right on the crease where the mating surface transitions from the flat part to the arch (I assume for the oil pump and something else on the other side) on both sides? And apply it above and below the gasket right?

I just went over the Honda shop manual again and I think it tells me to apply sealant at the above location on the oil pan, and then to lay the gasket over it. But then it also says that before installing the pan, apply sealant to the block at this location:



Is this correct?

jbpnoman

Black RTV is the technically the proper RTV to use. It's made for oil/fuel fittings. Red is made for high-temp fittings, and black silver is made for high temp oil/fuel fittings. I always use black silver for anything oil will touch.

Brandon04GT

Yeah I think I'll pick up the black one. I've been trying to do some more reading up on this and I found this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/replaced-oil-pan-gasket-still-seeping-help-2610576/

In the first post, the guy highlights in red where he applied sealant. I was planning on applying it exactly the same way and on both sides of the gasket as shown in his first diagram.

There seems to be a lot of variance in where people apply the sealant. Now i'm thinking it will be safest to just run a thin bead around the entire damn thing, above and below the gasket. Do you guys think this is a good idea? The only bad thing I can think of is that the sealant might create thickness and separate the gasket from the block and any wearing of the gasket will result in a leak?

I just want to get this right once for all....I'm got real tired of working on cars back when I had my Mustang. I am using this just as a daily lol


Brandon

jbpnoman

Just do it where the service manual tells you to. Use too much, and it'll go oozing out everywhere. Sure, the outside doesn't matter, but you don't want it possibly squeezing out inside and jacking up your oil pump or something. Those OEM gaskets do a good job of sealing.

ehrkeith

The torque specs aren't really a big deal, I would tighten it in a logical pattern like a star and snug them with a 1/4" ratchet, you can't put any torque on a ratchet that small anyways.

Don't make a 1 hour, 50 dollar job, harder than it has to be lol.

Don't stress about exhaust bolts, never had a problem with any across the last 12 hondas I've messed with.

Former User

Have you ever replaced a D16Y7 oil pan gasket? Torque and order are critical.

anothersickhatch

You'd be surprised how much torque you can make with that ratchet. Oil pan bolts and nuts require hardly any torque, so be careful. I usually take off the oil pan, clean the block and pan surfaces thoroughly, apply RTV silicone to the pan (a thin, consistent layer all the way around), put on the oil pan gasket, apply another thin layer of silicone to the gasket, let the oil pan sit aside for about 20 minutes, and then reinstall it. Torque to spec and let it stand overnight. It may sound like overkill, but I HATE leaking oil pan gaskets and replacing them. They can be quite finicky.