ballisticej1

Ok, so I boosted my car about a week or so ago and everything has been running fantastic and all except for this one little problem, after a few days of driving it, it started to leak a little oil, I mean like 4-5 drips when I park it and come back a few hours later from the hole where the return fitting is in the oil pan, my question is, is it leaking from there possible because my oil is too high in my pan and it's kinda over full (my oil goes about 1/4 inch above the 2nd mark on the dipstick). or is it really leaking because the oil pan is pressurized and it's pushing oil out? I had it sealed up, but I think it's leaking through it a bit now? Also, any other suggestions to fix this hopefully without having to drop the oil pan again =/

Sorry for the wall of text, and thanks for the responses

ballisticej1

bump for help, I wanna get this fixed asap

CivicSpoon

Too much oil can hurt your engine, so I'd suggest draining the excess oil based on that alone. Try to find the hole that it's leaking from, and seal it up.

ballisticej1

That much oil over isn't thaaaat much to actually hurt the engine. but I know where it's leaking, its the little bit of room around the fitting in the pan.

NVturbo

What kind of fitting is at the oil pan? Clean that area out, drive the car for 10-15mins and check it again. The stock Honda oil pans are made of thin metallic material that will and can warp if you attempt to weld a fitting on there. If I were you, I would use one of those AN fittings instead of welding one on. On my old T-hatch, that's what I used and it didn't leak one bit.

Something like this with a lock nut will work fine:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-985068ERL/

TravisCadello

is it leaking from the top of the oil pan like by the oil pan gasket? or drain plug?

And i would drain that oil might be at the top of pan and comming out lol.

shailoche

It is most likely that you are dripping oil out of the tapped fitting you made for your turbo drain line. If you cut a hole for an AN fitting or welded on a bung then you may have compromised the integrity of the oil pan.
Think about it for a second: if the oil just started to leak AFTER the turbo installation then it is most likely something you did when you installed the turbo.
So, check the drain line fitting for your leak.
There is no good reason why the "pressure" inside the oil pan would push oil out between the gasket and the pan flange unless there was a weak spot there in the gasket material. Pressure will only push fluids out though the path of least resistance. .

ballisticej1

Okay, I'm sorry you guys really need to read, i KNOW it is leaking from around the fitting in between where the fitting is and the oil pan, I am looking for any easier ways to fix this without having to pull the oil pan again and get it welded in, how I had it in was a 45 degree -8AN fitting with a nut on the other side and jb weld around it.

boostB4beauty

jb weld..........
Great for getting you out of a bind, but for a permanent return line setup????
i suggest removing your oilpan (it's not THAT bad of a job to do) and putting a proper fitting in there. There are many ways to do it, but i don't think JB weld should be added to that list.
Do it right, man.

TravisCadello

ur oil pan is easy is **** to take off man. just drop ur exhaust and take off all the bolts and the flywheel casing.


My mustang i had to take off all the Engine mounts and lift the motor 4 inchs and remove sway bar and drop both exhaust. so u got that **** easy yo.

ballisticej1

The oil pan itself is easy to take off, but my downpipe is not, that's the major reason I really don't want to take it off.

shailoche

You need to be very careful if you decide to weld the bung on to the oil pan. The stock oil pan is a sandwich of different metals and as such it can react badly to the extreme heat of a welding torch. You could actually make the problem worse by welding it back together. You need to have full access to the oil pan in order to weld it properly.

Your best bet is to remove the oil pan completely and then weld on the bung. It may be a PITA to take off but your turbocharger and entire engine's health depends on the oil supply. Don't take any shortcuts when it comes to this it simply isn't worth it.

Under no circumstance should you rely upon JBWeld to hold together any part of your turbo setup, especially the oil fittings. Protecting 2k worth of parts with $2 of goo simply makes 0 zero sense. So, take the pan off and weld the bung on properly.

Or you could always purchase a completely new pan with a bung already on it and swap out the pans. Of course that would cost you $600 or more...but that is what will happen if the fitting/welding goes bad.

ballisticej1

To be completely honest, it only leaks about 4 drips of oil after a hard boost session, and my oil level hasn't gone down at all (from what I can tell by the dip stick). I guess I really shouldn't have made this post since it's not really too big of an issue at the moment.

Thanks for all the advice though

jdm_Jim

hope that jb weld holds for ya, otherwise kaboom turbo setup...