FredoSP

I have a 00 Si - B16A2 and I just went back to the OEM throttle body after having problems with my STR 68mm TB.

The STR TB didn't require any coolant lines, so I just ran one coolant line from the IACV to the head. Now since I changed back to OEM I'm wondering if its 100% necessary that I install it with the coolant lines? I drove 50 miles on the highway today and was testing the car out just to see how it would respond, and my temp was fine and so were the EGT's (not that really matters).

Has anyone ever had problems using the OEM TB and not connecting the coolant lines. Keep in mind, its not like the sleeves where these a water jacket all around the TB, its just flows in and out through one small pipe, I don't see how this could be really beneficial, the water temp gets around 190 - 200 F correct?

Thanks in advance
- Fred

Quetzolcotl

I think that is an old trick to "add horsepower." the coolent lines are there to help with cold start. it should not hurt anything.

FredoSP

cool .... anymore ideas/suggestions?

IVI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quetzolcotl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that is an old trick to "add horsepower." the coolent lines are there to help with cold start. it should not hurt anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how can coolant lines help with a cold start when the coolant itself is cold? coolant doesnt heat up until it runs through the motor. it has nothing to do with "horsepower" either.
coolant lines are not nessecary depending where you live.
they are needed in cold cold weather climates where you need to circulate anti-freeze which gets HOT! to keep the butterfly valve in the TB from freezing up. thats all its there for.

FredoSP

wow good answer, thanks

80884

I'm wondering what problems you had with the str throttle body, and y u decided to go back to stock?

99blackcivicSi

no not cructial to hook everything back up it is used to head the t/b since your sopposed to let your car warm up before you drive it heats the t/b so that if the butterfly is frozen it will melt the ice and won't be stuck anymore.

Let me guess you had problems w/ the STR t/b sticking it took me about 1 hour to adjust the idle screw correctly to get it not to stick it was a little bit stiffer than than stock but not bad never stuck i say switch back to the STR if your boosted i felt a noticeable increase in the midrange and high end on the butt dyno.

FredoSP

it was sticking a drop - nothing major, but the drive-ability wasnt there, it made the gas pedal really hard and I didnt care for it.

Thanks for the help guys on the TB question, no coolant lines and everything seems fine