driveslow

I have been searching for quite sometime and cant find my answer. I picked up a set of oem ngks from honda lastnight and need to know if anti-seize is necessary for the install and what brand or type of anti-seize do I need. I have found post were members were not even using it or stated that some plugs recommend that you dont use it. Please advise, thanks in advance.

Syndacate

No, I was taught never to use anti-seize on those.

Not to mention you only want them "snug" - there's absolutely no reason for them to get seized.

driveslow

you guys are awesome. I will just torque them down to spec. Last question, do you guys know the torque spec ft/lbs for my vehicle d16z6 94 civic ex coupe?

honda.lioness

It is 13 ft-lbs. This torque spec is in your 94 Civic EX owner's manual as well as shop manuals. Might be on the NGK plugs' packaging, too.

I use a compressed air line and blow out the spark plug holes prior to installation. Inspect the plug's threads, too, whether new or old. People mess up because crud gets into the threads and/or the aluminum material of the engine block deforms easily if one forces things.

driveslow

My manual is a softcopy and about 1000 pages and very difficult to dig through. I will eventually print them all out. BTW, I just found the instructions for torque spec and immediatly below the spec it says," Note: Apply a small quantity of anti-seize compound to plug threads before installing". What do you guys think about that. Not sure which manual i downloaded but the pdf file document is called USDM_92-95_CIVIC. Page 23-105

honda.lioness

Good catch. Here is what I know on this subject: The owner's manuals from about 1990 to at least 2002 say nothing about using anti-seize. All specify 13 ft-lbs. (Owner's manuals may be viewed for free at https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp . Go to their indices and look up spark plugs to confirm what I just wrote.) But the Honda shop manuals I just checked say what you found: Use a little anti-seize.

I would say go ahead and use a little anti-seize. In the worst case, the plug will be a little undertightened compared to a plug that does not have anti-seize and could blow out (but I really doubt this will happen if you follow the shop manual's instructions). Undertightening is preferable to overtightening from the standpoint of not damaging threads.

Also, little comment on torque specs: Torquing to spec only gets the bolt tension in the ballpark of what is ideal. Bolt tension is achieved by torquing a bolt; when torquing, the bolt fastens more tightly; more torque = more tension = tighter hold; yada maybe you know this already. But because of surface irregularities, wear and tear, etc., torquing to spec often correlates very poorly to the precise design, desired bolt tension. I still use a torque wrench, but I do not sweat torquing to spec as much as I used to. I try to go by feel as much as the setting of the torque wrench. OTOH, I echo again that it is easy to foul the threads involved with spark plugs.

I have been going by the owner's manual and so never used anti-seize. I never had a problem changing plugs at the usual maintenance interval. I also use a torque wrench when installing my spark plugs, torquing to spec. But now I may start using anti-seize.

driveslow

now as far as what type of anti-seize to use. any recommedations, maybe something sensor safe? Just to make a quick comment about torqu spec vs feel. Just for grins I removed one of the spark plugs on my cold engine and reseated it by hand then tightened if down. I noticed that it felt that it simply became tight and I decided not to tighten it down anymore in fear that I would strip it. Normally things get progressively tighter, this plug instantly became tight. I am wonder if the last owner messed something up. I will just play it by feel and see how the car runs.

But can someone please advise me on what anti-seize to purchase?

90_EX_Civic

just your basic anit seize, but the only question i have to ask is, why use anit seize on a aluminum head?

honda.lioness

You will pay more for Permatex's copper anti-seize, but it is for high temps and also coincidentally even says it is recommended for aluminum engines yada: http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ubricant_b.htm

OTOH, I would probably just use what I use for almost every threaded connection on my Hondas: http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ubricant_a.htm This is cheaper than the copper stuff and comes in much smaller tubes. Even the small tubes last years for a two-car household. Autozone and Pep Boys will have these. WalMart should have at least the second one.

Really, antiseize's are not rocket science.

You could carefully tap that one spark plug hole, to play it safe. If you have never tapped a hole before, find a site that discusses it. There are some details to tapping that will be particularly important here, because of the soft metal. I see Napa sells a spark plug tube thread tap set. Spark plugs not properly tightened (one way or another) have been known to blow through a car's hood.

Honda Bull

Using or not using anti-seize isn't going to harm anything. You'll be fine either way. I'd recommend it if you don't change plugs too often. Plugs without it left in for over a year do end up pretty tight. The constant expansion of the aluminum head compounded with oxidation of the aluminum and the corrosive properties that come along with the metal of the sparkplug threads is probably why anti-seize is recommended. Makes it easier to remove so as to not ruin the threads in the head. Just be sure not to overtighten the plugs. That'll be the worst thing you can do.

It's the same reason anti-seize is recommened for open-ended lugnuts.