obligatory

About a month ago I decided to convert my Civic from auto to manual.
The main reason for the swap is my long term goal of installing a turbo on this car since I don't like the idea of boosting an auto vehicle.

I have a friend that has done some pretty extensive car work, and I know another guy around my area that is doing the exact same conversion right now, and the plan is that once he is done, he'll help me out with mine.

I will document everything that goes on with the swap in this thread.

The car:
96' Civic EX Sedan
(72k mi)


tein s-techs, ebay projectors, red/white tails, fogs, jdm rear red H, type r lip, type r grille.
lip, grille, and side skirts painted to match body.


engine mods:
aem SRI, aluminum radiator, other minor stuff.



Now I am going to link to a few of the guides I used to research up on this swap (or ones similar to it).

Great guide; includes part #'s and pics:
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

look up and buy individual brand new oem replacement parts at:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
(I found this site very useful to see how things go together too.)

Another guide; it is for EG's but it is the same idea for EK:
http://www.hondashowoff.com/fo...11282

I bought many of my parts from eBay user hondapartsunlimited
They have TONS of honda parts in stock and I got my pedal assembly,hydro lines, master cylinder, clutch reservoir, slave cylinder, tranny mount, and throttle cable all for about 150 bucks shipped from them.

I got lucky and acquired the tranny itself (an s40 B000 ex model with about 120k miles on it), the starter, stock 5 speed p2p ecu, shift linkage, stock shifter, side tranny mount, and an extra slave cylinder (just incase) all for $200 cash from a local guy.
His tranny also already had the VSS and fork on it. Be sure to check for those two things when you buy your transmission.

Here's a pic of what I got from the local guy:


And the ebay'ed items:
(items still in the mail so these are the pics from the listing. They are the actual items though.)

Passenger side tranny mount



throttle cable



pedal assembly



hydraulic clutch lines/cylinders/resevoir



Also from eBay I bought a skunk2 dual bend short shifter with shift ****: ($140)


and some shifter bushings made by Energy Suspension$15)


Lastly I found a local listing for a "civic 92-00 ACT Pressure plate and XTD Chromoly 8lb Flywheel -- just $100 for both"!
they were both new in box so I gladly purchased them.



I plan to buy the clutch street disc, pilot bearing, release bearing, and alignment tool seperately but I want to make sure I get the right ones.

This leads to my first dilemma.
EDIT: nvm all that, I found out that the PP sold to me was for a 92-00 prelude, but the flywheel is the one I need.
I ordered the proper pressure plate/clutch disc off eBay and they should be here soon.

The plan is to get the swap completed before 2008, but I'm not rushing anything.

side note: Long time H-T.com reader, first time poster
notice: This will be posted on other sites.


Modified by obligatory at 9:59 PM 12/22/2007


Modified by obligatory at 3:26 PM 12/25/2007


Modified by obligatory at 7:06 PM 1/2/2008

BWek

I'm doing the same thing except im putting a b16 with 5spd

the clutch line is missing the firewall bracket nice job on the shifter

BWek

Oh and if you only swap the brake pedal you can use your orignal throttle cable

ejoner

Does the pressure plate bolt up to the flywheel? The bolt holes look right for a D series.

obligatory

ooh yeah, I need to order the firewall bracket, thanks.
if theres anything else you see that I'm missing let me know.

I don't think the pressure plate bolts up to the flywheel.
the 3 studs on the flywheel aren't positioned correctly.

Is it possible this is a counterfeit ACT pp?
I can't even find it on their official site...

http://www.advancedclutch.com

BWek

Oh and you bought the same throttle cable that you already have on your car.....

obligatory

nah I read that the auto/manual one is different.

but yeah, I know it says A/T on the pic--there was a deviance between the pic and item description on the eBay listing and I got it sorted out with the seller.

Got a response from Advanced Clutch:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks for your email. The H-013X is a discontinued part number that has been superseded to the H-026X which fits the 92-02 Prelude. This will not fit your 92-00 Civic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Excellent!
Not...

obligatory

alright so I ordered the proper pressure plate/clutch disc off eBay and they should be here soon.

I found about $100 bucks worth of stuff I need from
hondaautomotiveparts.com
(random nuts, bolts, brackets etc.).

I am still kinda confused as to which mounts/brackets I absolutely need though since I hear so many different things.

Also it is news to me that I may actually have to buy a intake manifold and throttle body. If this is true, this will end up costing even more

sicones

why did you buy a throttle cable, and the passenger upper engine mount(rubber one you have pictured) is the same

You need to use a manual ECU, and that ECU can only run a 2 wire IACV so you need to change the manifold and throttle body. If you have enough skillzz, which most people here lack, you can drill and tap your current manifold for the IACV and convert the TB to manual by placing a metal plate between the auto IACV

obligatory

I was told (and shown) the auto/manual throttle cables are different in one of the guides I used, but it may have actually been for an EG (oops).

As far as the passenger upper engine mount, well I was, and still am pretty confused about which mounts I actually need and which ones I don't. I do know that I need to avoid dropping down 200+ bucks for a fancy conversion mount.

I'm not too worried about drilling a couple of holes in the manifold.


status on the project: waiting for a few more things to come in. Planning to put in the pedal assembly soon after christmas.

Sundown

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obligatory &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told (and shown) the auto/manual throttle cables are different in one of the guides I used, but it may have actually been for an EG (oops).

As far as the passenger upper engine mount, well I was, and still am pretty confused about which mounts I actually need and which ones I don't. I do know that I need to avoid dropping down 200+ bucks for a fancy conversion mount.

I'm not too worried about drilling a couple of holes in the manifold.


status on the project: waiting for a few more things to come in. Planning to put in the pedal assembly soon after christmas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, throttle cables are the same. The only mounts you need is the top transmission mount and the front torque mount. The rest are the same for auto and manual cars. You will also need manual flywheel bolts, the auto ones are too short and will NOT work. I didnt have to repin my ecu plug (dx/lx) but I think you might because you're going from a 2 wire iacv to 3 wire iacv.. Look for Luserkid's writeup for the how-to on that.

(Nvm).. you're going to need the bitch pin (aka shift linkage pin)..

obligatory

alright so heres a diagram of the MT mounts (all inclusive)





so the one I bought but don't need is #2

I think I need #3, 6, and 10 right?
(already have a #10 though)

yeah as far as the long starter bolt and some other misc bolts I had like 80 bucks worth of stuff in my hondaautomotiveparts.com shopping cart, and then the freakin site cleared it overnight so I'll have to redo that tomorrow and make sure i have everything.

I can't say I'm sure what you mean by the "stabilizer arm" though

Sundown

All you need is 6 and 10 with all hardware..

stabilizer arm = #10

sicones

you only need #6 and #10

for the 2 wire IACV:

obligatory

stuck my short shifter on to the shift linkage and installed the new bushings today.

also, the new exedy clutch disc and pressure plate came in the mail today. I'm proud to say that the flywheel DOES FIT the pressure plate.

So it turns out the guy sold me the correct flywheel but wrong plate. oh well.
I also managed to find a throttle body for just 20 bucks!

The guy really needed money

obligatory

As a christmas present (to myself)
I took the time to put in the brake pedal arm.

It took longer than expected, since the spring was a bitch until I found a hook to use to grab it.

I recommend getting a hook of some sort then grabbing the hook with your needle nose and doing it like that.

I'd post pics of the brake, but I'm planning to do the clutch pedal here in a couple hours so I'll wait then post pics of everything

obligatory

Alright!
I got the pedals and master cylinder/clutch reservoir done!





Here's the shift linkage with s2 dual bend installed and the new throttle body:



Merry Christmas everyone!

Sundown

yeah, the pedals was one of the hardest parts of my swap.. I had to break the bracket the pedals sit on to get the auto ones out and had to do all types of crazy stuff to get the manual ones back in.. it sucked lol..

I was going to tell you that you can go ahead and connect all of the clutch stuff even though you havent done the swap.. I drove around for like 2 months will everything connected already while i was waiting on parts

when do you plan on dropping the trans?

obligatory

well as of now I'm ahead of schedule...
but theres still a couple things I could do before I drop the tranny and auto shifter.

I think the bell housing of my tranny is really dirty (I think thats the name for the area where the main shaft thing comes out...its the part that mates with the clutch torque converter and motor...)
What kind of solution should I use to clean it?

The awesome dude I bought the throttle body from actually took off my auto TB to make sure the one he had was the right one. It bolted right up and everything seemed to be relatively the same (except one less sensor, which only the auto one has). We're pretty sure it's the correct one.

Does anyone know why and where I need to drill holes in the intake manifold? I think that's the only part of the install I'm in the dark about.

Anyways...I'll probably pull the center console the night before...and install the manual TB.

All I'm really waiting on is all the hardware I ordered.

If I get it in soon enough I could probably drop the tranny friday or sat so we'll see how that goes!

obligatory

I would have started everything tomorrow (sat.) but the hardware still hasn't come in. Scheduled delivery is the 31st, but I've had packages arrive early so we can hope.

Stopped by Autozone and bought Goop, Quicksteel, Spray engine cleaner (approved for tranny), throttle body/air intake cleaner, and some PB Blaster.

There are a couple things bothering me right now:
I don't have a dremel tool to cut through the wind plate with, really I don't have anything appropriate for doing that.

Also, I need to hit up some junkyards tomorrow to get the 2 wire IACV plug.
Hopefully I can find one somewhere

BWek

do yourself a favour and grab the whole intake manifold.. yes i know new gaskets and stuff but then you don't have to drill holes i think 3 and then drill 2 more and tap threads in them

then when you put the iacv it will all line up properly or not if you mess up the holes

Prof007

When complete, can you post a list of the parts you needed to make the swap and the rough cost?

obligatory

Ugh I hate asking this again since a few people claim it's been explained enough.

Just sum it up for me in plain english if you can.
I have the manual p2p ECU and manual throttle body.

From what I understand:

if I buy the IM, I also have to buy the actual IACV and the 2 wire IACV plug. This would result in no drilling, good idle and no CEL.

If I buy just the IACV and plug, but not the IM I will have to drill and tap holes. This equals good idle and no CEL.

If I just buy the plug....?
Fluctuating idle + CEL?

Also, if decide to go on with the swap before smoothing all this out (and obtaining the parts) how bad is the idle when not done properly? Will I still be able to drive?

BWek

the car won't idle I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong but if you have a manual thottle body and an automatic manifold there will be no where air can by pass the throttle plate so your car will just die.

you need the iacv yes if you drill and put the iacv on the automatic manifold it will work you will not get a cel and it will idle fine- as long as the holes you drill line up properly if you look on the Iacv you will see o-rings you need to drill the holes abit smaller than those and they need to line up! if they do not you Will have a vaccuum leak and it will suck.

The manifold is at the most $50, for a intake manifold complete with all goodies throttle body injectors fuel rail etc just get one and save yourself the Trouble you can reuse your old fuel rail so you don't have to take it apart.

Make sure the one you get has cruise control it has an extra vacuum source on the back of it.

You will only need 2 new gaskets it is a very easy swap the sell your old intake manifold on here

obligatory

Last night I pulled the center console, driver seat, auto ECU, air intake, and did a couple other things to prepare.
Everything is pretty much ready to go

It is now 10:30am, and a few people are coming over to help do the bulk of the work.
stay tuned!