new_ek_owner23

I have a 2000. D16y8 manual with a obd2a harness. The machanic that built the engine took the easy way and didn't build it right from the last owner. And I notice it while driving

Since I have a 2000 d16y8 shouldn't the harness be a obd2b? and if so should it be as easy as plug and play with it? I'm of course going to get it tuned to run perfect. I just want a confirmation that my theory is correct and will work correctly

If my theory is correct and I get the wiring for the car correct can I convert it to an obd1 and run a p28 with a tune in the future?

Many thanks in advanced

TomCat39

This is the only part I can speak to. As far as I know, there isn't any states or a province that it's legal to convert an OBD2 car to an OBD1 ECU/setup for street use.

HondaPartsHero

Unless they rigged the crap out of the interior harness there's no waybills running with an OBD2a harness unless they swapped dash harnesses as well. What issues do you have with it?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Unless the car was originally an HX. The HX stayed OBD2A throughout the generation.

OP, what are the first 6 digits of the VIN? It should be something similar to (but maybe not the same as) 1HGEJ6.

new_ek_owner23

[QUtherhondaPartsHero;5013479.5]Unless they rigged the crap out of the interior harness there's no waybills running with an OBD2a harness unless they swapped dash harnesses as well. What issues do you have with it?[/QUOTE]

The car is a 96 civic Dx with a 2000 d16y8 this is why I'm wondering it's because it has a different harness.. the first 6 of the Vin is 2HGEJ634...
Under the hood only the major senor are connected the distributor the intake sensor Throttle body alternator etc, there is about 10 plugs that are just dangling not connected to anything like the 02 sensor also.. the ecu is wired like an obd2a
the radiator fan only turns on because there is a bridge that's connected to it but its not connected into the right if that makes sense. And vtec doesn't engage Loke my last car..

new_ek_owner23

It's 2HGEJ6

new_ek_owner23

When I got the car they told me it's not going to run perfect because they just wanted the car to start that's all this car is good for.. not an issue for me until now, noe I'm trying to figure out what they did and I want to fix any issue with it

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

And this is why clarity is important. Your car, being a '96, should have an OBD2A harness in it. Swapping in a '00 EX engine should be relatively trivial, and yuou shouldn't have to swap the harness. Just add VTEC and knock sensor wiring, and use the correct OBD2A EX ECU, and you should be fine. If you want to run an OBD1 ECU for tuning in the future, you should also be able to do that just fine with a jumper harness.

Just for clarity (since we're already finding things you didn't originally mention)...are you Canadian, American, or some other nationality? Your car was made in Canada.

new_ek_owner23

First I am no expert but no rook either.I do plan on taking it to my skilled machanic after the new year just trying to figure it out to know my car better..
Makrs sense the knock sensor I think it fell off for some r3ason (its a small single pinout sensor under the intake)I know this because it's one of the wires dangling .since we figure out that, Why would I have like 10 wires from the harness that won't fit into any sensors on the motor(like the 02)? since it sounds like the wire is correct why would my radiator fan turn on because of a bypass bridge?issues like these I thought I was running a different harness.. now that I know my car is canadian, I sir am an America .( thank you by the way I was worried I have to swap the harness)

TomCat39

You said it yourself, they only hooked up enough to start the car, not to drive it. So they left lots of crap unhooked.

The bad thing is you have been driving without the O2 hooked up so it's been running in open loop mode for however long you have been driving it. That is a possible way to cause damage to the engine.

Damage can also be caused without other sensors connected and driving for a duration. It is dependent on just what all has been disconnected and what has been connected.

I'm assuming you've been driving with a CEL on for however long you've been driving this car.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You should have two under the intake manifold - one is the oil pressure sensor, and the other is the knock sensor. The oil pressure sensor is a simple push-on wire, but the knock sensor wire should be clipped on - it shouldn't be able to just fall off on it's own.

Exactly what color wires go to the plugs that aren't plugged into anything, and what color are the plugs themselves? Is the CEL on? Does it work? We can go from there. There's no reason your car couldn't have been set up to do more than "just start". It's not exactly a complicated swap.

new_ek_owner23

Alright now Are moving let me get home ..stay in touch cause I'm running round let me get home to take pics and give more information I just wanted to get the ball moving

HondaPartsHero

Just a small clarification the 99-00 distributor has a different plug (except US Si) than 96-98.