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Old 04-19-2005, 10:23 PM
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Default OBD question

Is it true that if you have an OBD1 engine in an OBD2 car (using factory ECU) you can change the intake mainfold and distributor and make it run as if it is an OBD2? I was told that the B18B enignes are the same between OBD1 and 2 except for the ignition and fuel electronics.
Old 04-19-2005, 10:25 PM
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Pretty much.
Old 04-19-2005, 10:29 PM
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So then if I do this then I wont have all the crazy codes popping up with the crank sensor, and the IAVC? Would I still need to change the ECU pins or would they be straight with the change over?

By the way, thank you for responding.
Old 04-19-2005, 10:30 PM
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You distributor mounting points will be off if you try to use I and II parts together. Best way is to modify the mounts or the wiring.

All the sensors are on the TB/Mani and the dizzy. You can get creative though.

I have a OBDO TB, OBD II IM and a OBD I dizzy. All works great, go figure.
Old 04-19-2005, 10:36 PM
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Default Re: (Cray91)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cray91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You distributor mounting points will be off if you try to use I and II parts together. Best way is to modify the mounts or the wiring.

All the sensors are on the TB/Mani and the dizzy. You can get creative though.

I have a OBDO TB, OBD II IM and a OBD I dizzy. All works great, go figure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah we tried to use te D dizzy because in the OBD2 engines the D and B were interchangable according to part numbers for non-vtec civics and tegs but it wouldn't bolt right so I thought maybe a B dizzy would work but I guess well run into the same mounting problem huh?

I have an OBD2 IM and throttle body ( I think) and the dizzy is OBD1 as of right now with the OBD 2 ECU. Do you throw any code or did yours just start up fine?
Old 04-19-2005, 11:56 PM
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Default Re: (grlracer97)

I'm not sure exactly sure what your trying to do here, but guessing from your sig I'd say an OBDI LS into a OBDII civic...please correct me if I am wrong. If that is the case why mess with all the extra wiring, I'd just spend a bit of cash on a OBDII-OBDI jumper and ECU and go from there. If you do that, you won't have any problems with the distributor or sensors. Also, conidering that your going turbo, (I have no idea what your planning on for engine management but) OBDI offer's many very inexpensive tuning options not availible with OBDII, such as Uberdata and Crome.

Just my $.02
Old 04-20-2005, 01:00 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96-EJ6 B18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure exactly sure what your trying to do here, but guessing from your sig I'd say an OBDI LS into a OBDII civic...please correct me if I am wrong. If that is the case why mess with all the extra wiring, I'd just spend a bit of cash on a OBDII-OBDI jumper and ECU and go from there. If you do that, you won't have any problems with the distributor or sensors. Also, conidering that your going turbo, (I have no idea what your planning on for engine management but) OBDI offer's many very inexpensive tuning options not availible with OBDII, such as Uberdata and Crome.

Just my $.02 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I was tryin to do this without spending the extra dough right now so I was seeing my options since I already have the OBD2 and OBD1 dizzys. Your correct about the engine, its an OBD1 going into an OBD2 car (have another thread floating so thats why I didn't go into it) and I want to use my OBD2 ECU. Swap didn't come with the I ECU but did come with a II intake mani so I was seeing what some options would be. The parts are kinda all screwed up...bought the swap as a whole and it came with II mani, I head and block, and an B16 tranny. So your saying that no codes will fly if I just jump an OBDI ecu? Or will I still need to do some wiring?

Sorry for the confusion and questions, just wanna do things right with the least problems down the road. Thanks
Old 04-20-2005, 01:32 AM
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Default Re: (grlracer97)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grlracer97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well I was tryin to do this without spending the extra dough right now so I was seeing my options since I already have the OBD2 and OBD1 dizzys. Your correct about the engine, its an OBD1 going into an OBD2 car (have another thread floating so thats why I didn't go into it) and I want to use my OBD2 ECU. Swap didn't come with the I ECU but did come with a II intake mani so I was seeing what some options would be. The parts are kinda all screwed up...bought the swap as a whole and it came with II mani, I head and block, and an B16 tranny. So your saying that no codes will fly if I just jump an OBDI ecu? Or will I still need to do some wiring?

Sorry for the confusion and questions, just wanna do things right with the least problems down the road. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should be able to sell your OBDII ECU for the same price as an OBDI ECU, the harness can be had from Boomslang fabrication for $74 shipped ( http://www.boomslang.us/obd2to1.htm ) and either the OBDI or OBDII distributors will work with the OBDI ECU. You can make the call wether you want to modify how it bolts up or rewire it. I would reccomend rewiring it, becuse it is only 7 wire and you can just go color for color. Other than that the swap should be plug-n-play...the OBDI ECU won't look for the crank fluctuation sensor or the second O2 so that is a plus. The OBDI conversion should be the least hassle. What are you planning on running for management with your turbo setup?
Old 04-20-2005, 04:01 PM
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Default Re: (96-EJ6 B18C)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96-EJ6 B18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You should be able to sell your OBDII ECU for the same price as an OBDI ECU, the harness can be had from Boomslang fabrication for $74 shipped ( http://www.boomslang.us/obd2to1.htm ) and either the OBDI or OBDII distributors will work with the OBDI ECU. You can make the call wether you want to modify how it bolts up or rewire it. I would reccomend rewiring it, becuse it is only 7 wire and you can just go color for color. Other than that the swap should be plug-n-play...the OBDI ECU won't look for the crank fluctuation sensor or the second O2 so that is a plus. The OBDI conversion should be the least hassle. What are you planning on running for management with your turbo setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the turbo is coming next month but I know I need bigger injectors (550cc is what Im going for) and I was planning on using a 255 Walbro fuel pump, and I haven't decided if I'm gonna go hondata or stand alone or not. There isn't anyone local here that knows how to do it or even has the equipment that I know of. There are few places 2 hrs away. I really don't quiet understand how hondata completely works, I understand they chip the ECU and that allows the shop to tap into the ECU to set fuel levels and revs and stuff like that. And I know that I would need the OBD1 ecu b/c you can't use the 2 with hondata. I just haven't decided what would be the best way to go. I'm only really looking to get around 300whp so I'm not sure if hondata would be necessary. I still have a lot of research to do with that so that I know what all it does and how it affects engine reliability and if it is hard on the engine. Thanks again for your input.
Old 04-21-2005, 01:10 AM
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Default Re: (grlracer97)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grlracer97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well the turbo is coming next month but I know I need bigger injectors (550cc is what Im going for) and I was planning on using a 255 Walbro fuel pump, and I haven't decided if I'm gonna go hondata or stand alone or not. There isn't anyone local here that knows how to do it or even has the equipment that I know of. There are few places 2 hrs away. I really don't quiet understand how hondata completely works, I understand they chip the ECU and that allows the shop to tap into the ECU to set fuel levels and revs and stuff like that. And I know that I would need the OBD1 ecu b/c you can't use the 2 with hondata. I just haven't decided what would be the best way to go. I'm only really looking to get around 300whp so I'm not sure if hondata would be necessary. I still have a lot of research to do with that so that I know what all it does and how it affects engine reliability and if it is hard on the engine. Thanks again for your input. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem! It sounds to me like you have the basic undersatnding of what/how hondata is/works. You shouldn't have too much trouble making 300 whp on a stock internal LS with out sacrificing reliability, IF IT'S TUNED PROPERLY! Tuning is the biggest part of building a car (especially a turbo car), but, unfortunately it also the most overlooked part as well. Good tuning will make a car, poor tuning will break a car, and your wallet! It's way cheaper and easier to spend a bit of money or time now to do the reasearch, and get the correct parts, then it is to blow the motor and have to swap in another one. The 550's should work for your HP goal, as will the 255. If your worried about having some one tune your car, Hondata has a list of tuners on their site, it may be a couple hour drive there, but the drive home will be a blast! If your interested in saving some money (who's not right?) and you want to try tuning for yourself, you might check out Uberdata... http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata
Old 04-23-2005, 05:39 PM
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Default Re: (96-EJ6 B18C)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96-EJ6 B18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No problem! It sounds to me like you have the basic undersatnding of what/how hondata is/works. You shouldn't have too much trouble making 300 whp on a stock internal LS with out sacrificing reliability, IF IT'S TUNED PROPERLY! Tuning is the biggest part of building a car (especially a turbo car), but, unfortunately it also the most overlooked part as well. Good tuning will make a car, poor tuning will break a car, and your wallet! It's way cheaper and easier to spend a bit of money or time now to do the reasearch, and get the correct parts, then it is to blow the motor and have to swap in another one. The 550's should work for your HP goal, as will the 255. If your worried about having some one tune your car, Hondata has a list of tuners on their site, it may be a couple hour drive there, but the drive home will be a blast! If your interested in saving some money (who's not right?) and you want to try tuning for yourself, you might check out Uberdata... http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks ej6...well we got the car fired up today after we realized we had the dizzy and crank off 180 degrees. I also got an OBD1 ECU so all I need to do is get the harness and hook up the shift linkage and connect a few wires and were all good. I appreciate the help and responses. You helped a ton. I think were gonna run with the two (but carefully not doggin it) until I can get the harness.

Your a life saver man, thanks again.
Old 04-23-2005, 08:20 PM
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Default Re: (grlracer97)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grlracer97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Your a life saver man, thanks again. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My pleasure...post up some results when you get it all done!
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