toby350

I have a 93 civic with a B16.

Problem:
My gears dont want to go in anymore.

Story:
I started having this problems when i pulled my engine out to do a brake tuck and re paint my engine bay. After i paited the bay i started putting evrything back on and i turned on the car and tryed putting it into gear and it didnt want to go in and the only thing i changed on my clutch system was the clutch line. I bought the braded steel line. I notice my clutch master wasint squirting any fluid out so i replased it and after doing that all my gears went in fine. I went out of town for 2 months so the car was just parked but was turned on by a friend evry week. When i came back i turned it on and tryed putting into gear and didnt go in. So i bled out my slave cylinder and after i did that my gears went in. I took it out for a drive, was driving it for like 20 mins wen my gears started going in ruff. I drove the car back home and wen i got home my gears where going in really ruff. Next day in the morning none of my gears went in so i bled it out again and my gears went in so i knew there must be air going in. So i bench bled the master and notice lil bubbles keeped on coming out so i replaced the master again and bench bled it and no more bubbles came out so i bled the slave cylinder and went to go turn on the car and put it in gear and now my gears dont go in at all only ones in a will they go in into 3rd and 4th wen the car is at low rpms but real ruff and there also a lil chatter on my fork but goes away when i push the clutch in. It kinda sounds like theres knocking but you can hardly hear it and it sometimes does it and also goes away when i push the clutch in.

New parts and things i checked:
I put a new slave cylinder, clutch master, new braded steel clutch line and diffrent hose that goes from the resavoir to cluth master and checked oil level on tranny and thats good too. Clutch is 2 yrs with clutchmaster lightweight flywheel.

Im lost and dont know what could be. If im missing any info let me know...thanks for any help

pityocamptes

1. Small paragraphs are great
2. Spell check is your friend.
3. Grammatics are important...


It seems like the culprit for all your issues is the bleeding of the master/slave. You need to do a complete bleed on the system. Can you observe the fork moving when you push on the clutch pedal? Are you losing fluid, ie leak?

toby350

Didnt want to miss anything and yea i know i cant spell. I already bled the master over 70 times and the slave 10 times theres no sputtering on the slave and no not losing fluid. yes i can see the fork moving

pityocamptes

Just busting your *****. Sorry about the lecture, just a pet peeve...

Fork and T/O bearing are moving ALL the way, or partial? Can you go through the gears while in idle? Are you noticing slipping at higher rpms/gears?

Fliptard

try replacing the clutch line again. Seems like everything started with that.

pityocamptes

Can you describe HOW you bled the system?

toby350

lol its ok. Well I think it goes out all the way. No i cant go into any gear while in idle only when the car is off but ones in a will it goes into 3rd and 4th while in idle but real ruff and yea i thought it was the line but its not leaking anything so why would it be the line???

pityocamptes

Are you absolutely positive you bled all the air out of the line? What was your procedure for bleeding? Is the clutch slipping at higher rpm's?

Fliptard

yea, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw-out bearing.,... any onf that could be causeing it.

toby350

The way i did the master was...i took the line off the T/O and put it into the resavoir and a freind pumped the pedal till no bubbles came out. The way i did the T/O was 2 methods... first method was a friend pumped the pedal 4 times or 5 then hold it down then i relesed the nipple on the T/O and repeated that 6 times. Then another friend told me to do it this way...open the nipple on the T/O then a friend push the pedal slowly and when its all the way down tighten the nipple and repeat. Did that like 3 times and not the same day

toby350

Oh also put a new throw-out bearing and no it never sliped on me when my gears went in. The engine is boosted on 10 pounds and never sliped

kwong2001

Did the reservoir go down at all?

toby350

what do you mean if the reservoir go down? When i bled the T/O yea the fluid level did go down and i didnt let it get empty.

kwong2001

Eh, nevermind, i'm an idiot

hwyix

iTrader: (1)

+1 please.

Sometimes aftermarket (steel braided) are not very good. I would buy a OEM clutch line so you know it does not leak has the right fittings on both ends etc...

Sounds like you are doing every thing right. Clutch bleeding is a roll of the dice. Can take 20 minutes or all day.

strategy400

Did you visually match the old throwout bearing to the new? Was it an OEM replacement?

Emeraldbomber

^
Is the slave cylinder pushing the fork out all the way? My buddy bought a slave that was aftermarket and the pushrod wouldnt push the fork.

toby350

Im going to put the OEM line back on but what i dont get is why would it be the line if just a day before my gears where going in with that same line. I bought the throw at o'reilly and yes it did look the same. The slave cylinder is pushing the fork but what is considered all the way?

hwyix

iTrader: (1)

I don't know it if was the line or not. What I am saying is a lot of after market lines don't fit as well. Maybe after you bled everything it worked for a little while. Then maybe some how (line or some other means) air was introduce into the line.

Did your after market line require adapters on both ends to work with your car? Each adapter adds more places for air to get into your system.


Your line might be fine and you just have to keep bleeding. Sorry I don't know what to tell except I have been there myself. Some cars 20 minutes others cars hours and hours.

toby350

No there was no adaptors the line comes to fit the car. Just one end of the line comes with a bolt.

strategy400

Its a banjo bolt? Maybe air is getting in there. Did it come with new washers?

toby350

What problem did you have with your clutch line?

toby350

Yea thats it. Yea it came with new washers. Does the line have to be bolted down or can it be free? Has anybody had any problems with braided clutch lines? Does it matter what end of the line goes where?

hwyix

iTrader: (1)

This is just WAG on my part. I do not have exact experience on your car.

When I did a customers car mid 90 Jag. One of the rear lines brakes lines was. I ordered a new brake line from worlpak. The new line did not come with the banjo washers. I tried using the old ones = leak. I went to a friends shop that had a huge assortment of banjo washers. Looked to be the exact size/thickness = leak. I ordered the brake line from Jag dealer ( 7+ back order it came with the banjo washers. Installed, bled within 30 minutes done. I must have spent four+ hours trying on the various things before I got the factory one.

Those banjo washers have to be exact. When I got the new ones from the dealer it LOOKED exactly the same size/thickness as the ones I was trying to put on. At least to the naked eye. I did not weigh them, put them under a microscope, etc...


dunno if that is your problem. Just food for that.

burnitup

how is your trans? any grinds normally? could be a problem with the trans im unsure if you have let it sit and tried it again after it cooled down?



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