elnoyl

I just completed my rear disc conversion a few days ago. I am getting a noise from the back of the car which you can tell when the wheel gets to a certain spot. You can only hear the noise at higher speeds about 45 to 60. I swapped the whole trailing arm assemblies and have new rotors and pads. I am guessing it's a rear spindle on one of the sides. Anyone have any ideas or advice. Thanks in advance.

elnoyl

Oh yeah forgot to mention it's a 2000 ex coupe with 99 integra trailing arms with integra calipers.

b16_sol_707

describe the noise

elnoyl

I really don't know how to describe it other than you can tell it happens when it hits that particular spot of the wheel while its rotating. I checked and its not hitting the splash guard. I bought the set out of a junkyard so who knows how long it was sitting but it has new trailing arm bushings that are oem honda.

92ehatch

take the rotors off and make sure you dont have any rocks stuck.

make sure the squealers on the pads arent hitting anything

if its a roaring noise, that gets slightly louder when making slight turns it could be a wheel bearing

i once put a pad on the wrong side (squealer on the outer pad on the fronts) and the squaler hit a part of my rim.

(yes that was stupid, but i did do it)

del_slow420

if you have new pads rotors and bushings, and are positivie its not the dust sheild then i would think wheel bearing.. jack up the rear of the car and see if one wheel spins easier then one another.

92ehatch

that is not really an accurate way to tell if a wheel bearing is bad.

the best way is to do this.

jack up rear of car, get a buddy (friend, mom dad, whoever)

crawl under car with a long screwdriver.

place tip of screw driver at back of wheel bearing and put the handle to your ear.

then have your buddy spin the wheel.

you are listening for a gravely noise.

check both sides, if they sound clean then the wheel bearing is not the issue

elnoyl

I know for a fact there are no rocks in it. I cleaned them up really good before I installed them. I will jack the car up and spin the wheels. I figure one side that's bad I will be able to tell. Since its the rear I don't really know what else is there to make it go bad.

mienboiracer209

my 00 hatch had a rear disc conversion, and the sound would get louder the faster i go, like grinding metal. my problem was the caliper bracket was seized and it caused drag on the rotor. i've attached a link to the picture, part "B"

http://gallery.8thcivic.com/albums/album06/brake3.gif

good luck

elnoyl

mine doesn't sound like a grinding at all. You can tell when it gets to the particular spot of the revolution that it makes the noise. Thanks for all the input, i will update as i figure more out.

elnoyl

I just purchased a set of rear wheel hub bearing assemblies. I am going to change them by the weekend and i will post back to let everyone know if that fixes the problem. I just wanted to replace that part since everything else is new on the assembly now if i change those.

92ehatch

i hope that fixes it

i know i had bad wheel bearings on the front of my hatch, and changing those was like upgrading to a lexus, it was so quiet and smooth inside the car.

if that doesnt work tho, maybe check your ebrake cable is not too tight.

if the rear rotors are slightly warped and the brakes are too tight it may cause that noise as it drags across a single part of the rotor.

elnoyl

Update yeah 92ehatch i think you must be right because i changed both wheel bearing hub assemblies and got on the interstate and i started to hear more of an airplane type noise, than i got off and drove around a residential neighborhood made a few stops at some stop signs. The noise became almost non-existent and than got off the interstate again and did some more residential driving. Got back on the interstate and i hear the same noise just not nearly as loud from the passenger rear. My rotors have less than 200 miles on them. I think i should just try swapping them next and see what happens. If that doesn't help i think the part the hub assemblies bolts to is bent on the passenger side. Anyone have any other ideas.

elnoyl

i don't think the ebrake cable is to tight because if i don't have it on my car rolls backwards.

elnoyl

anyone?

elnoyl

bump

92ehatch

wait...did you start getting the roaring noise AFTER you changed the bearings?

thats odd, unless you got a bad bearing (which is entirely possible)

usually a bearing that is bad is pretty obvious, aside the roaring noise, when you take , say a left turn you will hear a specific noise from one side of the car, that is almost like a cupped tire or bent wheel, and when you turn to the right, the noise will become almost non existant, thats because as load is placed on and off of that bearing it will make more or less noise.

your best bet is to get a friend to ride in the back of car car (trunk monkey) and try to listen to which side is making the noise, as it is hard to determine sides from the drivers seat.


EDIT: sorry if thats sounds rambling, i didnt get any sleep last night.

also, did you align the car after doing the disc swap? you need to have the rear end aligned. maybe its so far out that you are getting a roaring noise from the tires dragging.

oh and i dont think rotors would cause the problem, dont bother changing them.

and the proper way to set the ebrake to make sure it is correct.

lift the rear wheels, pull the ebrake handle to 1 click

adjust the ebrake adjuster to where the wheels have a SLIGHT drag when ebrake is on 1 click.

once there, make sure the ebrake engages withink 6-10 clicks.

elnoyl

i did get the car aligned right after. When i changed the bearing yesterday on the passenger rear side brake pads i noticed a black mark where the pad would touch the rotor. Do you think that i should swap sides of the rear rotors and rear wheels and see what happens?

elnoyl

when your talking about adjusting the parking brake cable i assume you mean taking off the center console and using the 12mm bolt right?

jamelin

possibly your rotors are slightly warped. if you get cheaper ones you sometimes have to get them cut.

elnoyl

I think that's possible because my pads had black on them.

92ehatch

i dont know what the black on the pads means.

but it is possible to have new warped rotors

i have brand new front rotors on my car, and they are warped.

i had to buy em tho, my others were below min thickness from the last time i machined them (last resort machine lol)

if you are sure the noise is from the passenger side then swapping the pads/rotors to the other side is a good test for the issue.

if the problem switches sides then you know its in those parts you swapped over.

if it doesnt switch sides, then you know its something else.

however, switch one part at a time, not a bunch. otherwise you cant narrow it down as fast

elnoyl

I'm having a friend sit in the back to make sure its that side. I will than take the rotor off and bring it to a place that resurfaces them and hopefully they will tell me its warped and than I will buy a new one. If they say its not warped I will swith the rotors and than if the noise changes sides I will know. Than I will swap both rear tires if no luck with the rotors.

elnoyl

My rotor was warped. i brought it to a place that turns them and found out it was warped. However that rotor was brand new. I noticed tonight after i put on another new rotor to replace it why it became warped. I drove the car around and still have an awful lot of noise. I than touched the side that had the warped rotor and than touched the other side. The side that had the warped rotor was a lot hotter and had a smell to it like a burning something. There is something causing the rotor and caliper to heat up on the passenger side rear causing it to warp rotors. The new rotor i just put on also had blue on it after driving it showing that it reached a very high temperature. Any ideas? I am starting to think the trailing arm may just be junk.

92ehatch

you either have a stuck caliper, or ebrake cable too tight.

try lubing the caliper slides with high temp grease.

take off both 12mm bolts (i think they are 12) then pull on the part with the boot, and the slide will pop out. if they dont come out easy, then take a pair of vice grips and grip the slide on the side where the bolts go in (so you dont hurt it, then knock them out with a hammer)

and reajusting the ebrake cable (check both sides for the slight drag)