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No start - Compression, Fuel, Spark, Relay = GOOD

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Old 10-20-2007, 12:25 PM
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Default No start - Compression, Fuel, Spark, Relay = GOOD

<FONT COLOR="RED">DO NOT REPLY UNLESS YOU READ THE ENTIRE FIRST POST!</FONT>
Its so annoying when people suggest crap that I list as being checked/in spec/fine

I have great luck. Swapped my d16 back in and it doenst run. Just great
First it wouldnt crank, so I changed the starter. Now it cranks, but wont start.

My plug wires are in the right order. My injector wires are in the right order.

SEE?????? Stop pm'ing me and saying theyre not! Jesus

The fuel pump primes and I have fuel pressure ~40psi (alrhough...it falls)
Injectors are the same ones Ive always used - I know they function fine
I have ~12v power at each injector plug and all have continuity to the ecu
My injectors click when voltage is applied (9v battery test)
I ran carb cleaner through them (following: http://www.plymouthlaser.com/injectest.htm ...minus the compressed air...)
I have good spark at each wire - blue color
Checked the coil and icm - both are within spec (BUT I bought a new dizzy online last night anyways...)
Installed new plugs, wires, rotor and cap
All 3 ground wires are connected and have continuity between each of them.
The main relay clicks when I crank it and specs out according to helms
No fuses are blown
I have good compression across all cylinders
Bare throttle body - no air filter attached
Ignition timing is set to the same marked position as when it ran a year ago
I never touched the timing belt - its set exactly where it was when I swapped the sucker out

I am using the same wiring harness and fuel filter as I was on the b18 last month. Hell, its even the same gas
As you can see, with the list of new parts, Ive started throwing money at the problem. I know...thats stupid. And I know better...

The y8 sat in my garage for a year. It never moved, nothing dropped or broke while it sat there. I turned the crank every month - its not siezed.
It just magically decides not to run anymore.


(on a sidenote, Im now throwing the cel for vtec pressure, but I think thats because its not getting any oil yet)


Modified by pdiggitydogg at 9:51 PM 10/26/2007
Old 10-20-2007, 01:35 PM
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Modified by pdiggitydogg at 11:40 PM 10/26/2007
Old 10-20-2007, 01:48 PM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

Keep checking everything over again It is going to be something stupid, it alway is. Good luck
Old 10-20-2007, 03:30 PM
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Default Re: (BlakeJ53)

You've been pretty thorough.....

Does the motor try to start (quick stumbles, backfires, etc), or is it just constant cranking with no attempt at all whatsoever to start? When you did the spark test, did you use a spare spark plug or the plugs in the motor? I recently fixed a no-start car that had plugs the appeared fine, but upon testing them specifically they exhibited little to no spark. Wire wheel and the car started right up.

You have to consider that if you have fuel, spark, compression, and proper timing you have a running motor. Your missing something....

Old 10-20-2007, 04:39 PM
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Default Re: No start - Compression, Fuel, Spark, Relay = GOOD (pdiggitydogg)

maybe check the ignition coil...i dont know..sounds like a problem i had
Old 10-20-2007, 05:04 PM
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Ive checked the spark with three different plugs - the orginals, a spare set, and then new.

There are times where I think it wants to start, but that may just be my imagination - in reality it probably just cranks and cranks. It never actually starts (I believe no combustion) and it never backfires.

I checked the coil already.

There is definately something Im missing. The thing ran fine a month ago with the b18 AND a year ago with this same engine. I havent swapped any other parts (like key cylinder, etc).

My battery is draining fast w/ all the cranking
(Ive gotten the battery charger out to keep it on necessary lifesupport when it dips below 10v)
Old 10-20-2007, 06:25 PM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

Have you done a 'node' test at the injector to make sure it's firing?
Old 10-20-2007, 06:33 PM
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Default Re: No start - Compression, Fuel, Spark, Relay = GOOD (pdiggitydogg)

Check the Timing on the engine............
Old 10-20-2007, 06:39 PM
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I dont own a tool to actually test the injectors, which is why I did all the other ones listed.
They work

I never touched the timing belt.............
(You cant adjust th ignition timing until the thing runs - which is why its set to a previously marked position.)

Please read before posting. I wrote everything down for a reason
Old 10-20-2007, 06:49 PM
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Default Re: No start - Compression, Fuel, Spark, Relay = GOOD (pdiggitydogg)

I dont know if this helps, but my friend had something like that also, one day it just stopped working, once it was the starter, and another time was a short circuit in the wiring causing the alternator not to work, producing not enough power to start..
Old 10-20-2007, 06:58 PM
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Alternator isnt part of the equation yet - its all battery until it runs
Old 10-20-2007, 07:34 PM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

pmd
Old 10-20-2007, 07:59 PM
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pm'd back -
Dizzy will not isntall 180* off - tangs are different sizes
Old 10-20-2007, 10:47 PM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

have you tried push starting it

ps. your problems and excellent background info always make me feel like i'm taking a test.

don't know what the exact name is but what about that "clutch switch"
Old 10-21-2007, 12:56 AM
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Default Re: (rivaladore)

ok try shooting some injector cleaner in the intake and try to start it. if it starts your not getting fuel out of the injectors. i know you tested them. i had the same thing on a friends motor after it sat for 4 months of sitting on the floor. tured out he had a muddober nest in the fuel rail. he had good fuel pressure just cloged fuel supply to the injecters.
Old 10-21-2007, 01:48 AM
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I havent tried push starting it yet, no. I was going to try that when the starter was bad, but I dont think it would do any good now. Not that Im above trying it, I guess.

The clutch switch is fine - if it were bad it wouldnt even crank. Mine cranks, but wont fire.


I am of the school of thought that starter fluid is a bad thing. If the car doesnt run the way it should normally, theres a problem somewhere.
I guess I'll double check the fuel rail (since thats the only think I cleaned/checked once).
WTF is a mud dober (dauber)? Ohhh...a wasp. Hmm weird

ps) I always hate making threads because I feel that I should be able to solve my own problems. But, its good to have outside ideas.
I just hate it when people reply without reading the original post... Anything else is good though.
Shouldnt feel like a test
Old 10-21-2007, 03:16 AM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pm'd back -
Dizzy will not isntall 180* off - tangs are different sizes</TD></TR></TABLE>

Youd be suprised with this one. Had it happen to me and once i bolted it down (only one bolt even) i didnt notice it. Can you make a video so we could see whats going on to help you more.
Old 10-21-2007, 05:12 AM
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is your ecu plug in? check under the hood to see if there are any blown fuse, double check with a tester, an have your battery charge when you try to start it, an keep us posted, very intrested in your problem, an if you do get it fix, tell us what happen, one of these day it could happen to any one of us.
Old 10-21-2007, 06:18 AM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am of the school of thought that starter fluid is a bad thing. If the car doesnt run the way it should normally, theres a problem somewhere.
I guess I'll double check the fuel rail (since thats the only think I cleaned/checked once).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed, but consider this. You applied voltage to the injectors and the clicked. So you know they are "good". But have you actually checked what triggers them? (Ie: distributor, TDC sensor, ECU, etc)... Add the starting fluid simply as a test to see if the car makes more of an effort to fire. If it does, you know for sure the problem is related to fuel delivery and you can posatively rule out anything else.
Old 10-21-2007, 06:26 AM
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Wouldnt you know it...camera has a dead battery I'll charge it and make a video later on.
Yeah, I did check to see if the dizzy would fit 180* off. You can get 1 bolt in for sure, maybe 2 if you really force it. It was actually one of the first things I thought of.

I will check the fuses again, I suppose. That is crazy easy.

Is carb cleaner as combustable as starter fluid? I dont want to go buy a can of something I wont need for long.
Old 10-21-2007, 08:28 AM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

it has to be some sort of timing, you have everything even spark but if the spark is at the wrong time it wont work. I know when did the heads on my 4runner, it wouldnt start first time i had the intake off. I had to have the intake on for the sensors. not sure if there are any sensors on you intake though. And if im wrong dont be a dick about it anybody
Old 10-21-2007, 11:05 AM
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somthing like this hap to me a while back but mine was a stupid mistake the perivos owner had a security chip to the starter the device shorted out and would not let the starter work i just had to move the device..
Old 10-21-2007, 12:19 PM
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Well I dont have anymore time to work on this for awhile - Im lucky I have a beater still....

-Expect a post toward the end of the week

edit***
Oh and the fuses are still fine


Modified by pdiggitydogg at 4:32 PM 10/21/2007
Old 10-22-2007, 03:30 PM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

starting fluid is Bad for Gas motors it was made for starting deisels there rings are stronger then the ones in a gas motor i have seen motor blowout ring from starter fluid. carb cleaner and brakleen are better.
Old 10-23-2007, 09:16 AM
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Default Re: (Solster)

Starting fluid is extremely bad for diesel motors due to the higher compression.


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