Thefreak

Hi guys, I'm brand new here but I'm looking for some help.
I just swapped my d16z6 out for a y8 (my engine was bad and a y8 is what i could get my hands on). Anyway, I finally got it all back together after way too many hours and it fired right up. I turned it off and started it again and the idle started getting jumpy. I shut it off again and started it and it was still the same. This time I let it warm up. after running a while it died on its own. After that I realized that I had missed a couple hook ups and a vacuum line to the intake so I hooked those up and tried again. No luck, it just kept cranking. Took a plug out and I'm not getting any spark. So I check to see if I was getting current to the coil and i was. I changed the wires and the distributor cap and still nothing. I'm stumped!!! Anything I might be missing?

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Easy thing first, make sure the rotor is on correctly and the spring on the coil is in place/making contact with the cap. If that checks out, test the coil and replace as necessary.

Thefreak

The spring is there. I put a test light between the negative terminal of the battery and spring and there was current there when the ignition was on. That means the coil is okay right?

I just took the rotor off to clean it. I doubt that will make a difference but we'll see.

tony_2018

Look through the faq section to diagnose the icm and ignition coil.

Thefreak

I'm still trying to navigate this forum. The only faq i can find is info on the forum not on tech stuff.

Thefreak

So.... I replaced the coil and it started right up. But just like before once it heated up it sarted to pulse the engine again. I shut it off before it died this time cause I didn't want it to blow this coil also. Any ideas what's causing it to pulse the engine when it heats up and was the coil going out related?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Is the CEL on? Does it work? How exactly did you find the "Create New Thread" button, when you couldn't find the FAQ sticky thread, which is literally inches away?

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...tions-1998336/

When you're done reading that one, read this one too. You're breaking a few of them.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...sting-3002401/

What ECU are you using? What distributor are you using? Exactly what car are things being swapped into and out of?

Thefreak

Okay I didn't give a good title or specific info. Anything else I need todo differently next time? I looked over the faq and didn't find anything very helpful to my situation.

I'm working on my 95 del sol. It has the original d16z6 ecu and so it is obd1. It's all stock right now.

The check engine light came on when it started the very first time last week after the swap (d16y8) but then it went off after it died and I didn't get a chance to read it. But I'll try and start it again tomorrow and see if I can read it if it's lit up.

Thefreak

Oh, I'm using a y8 distributor which I modified the plugs to fit the z6 harness. The wires matched up perfect (same color codes). Just different plugs.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

OK. In the future, don't just pull a plug to check spark color - that could be what fried your coil. Spark testers are cheap. Buy one. Pull the CEL code(s), and post them, and we can work from there.

92ehatch

And you're wiring. Did you just twist them together? Solder ?

tony_2018

Its at the top of this forum with TECHNICAL information.

tony_2018

YOu need to check resistance on your spark plug wires, you need to check resistance on your coil.

Former User

Crank the engine for 25 seconds to see if it throws a CEL code. Don't turn the key off after cranking so you don't lose the CEL code. Jump the service connector to recover the code.

Are you sure you browsed the FAQs sticky? I posted a bunch of ignition system diagrams there.

tony_2018

Thats what I'm saying, there all there. I don't see how he could missed that.

Thefreak

I used crimps. Would a lack of power at that point cause the coil to blow?

Thefreak

Yeah thanks. I'm going to try and get the code later today.

I don't even know what diagrams would help me here though. Sorry I'm not trying to be lazy, I really don't know what information I'm looking for.

janz3n

go back and solder+heat shrink all wires.

Thefreak

Okay, I think I got it fixed. I feel kinda dumb but I just didn't have enough fluid in it so it was over heating and the coil must have just happened to have gone out at the same time or somehow it caused the coil to blow. The engine is has a little but of a pulse at a low rpm (above idle) but I think that's a separate issue and I'll try and do better research so I don't all you guys time
Thank you all so much!

tony_2018

Low oil or low coolant?

Thefreak

Low coolant. It hadn't worked its way to the back of the engine. So the pulsing was idler valve not receiving coolant. So it couldn't sense the temp.

TomCat39

Most Likely Answer:

tony_2018

low coolant doesnt cause a coil to go out, it will make your engine overheat.

Eh2Guanaco

Most likely your Ignition module is the problem...that tends to go out on our engines a lot...

tony_2018

The ICM rarely goes out, the first would go would be the coil because that is what supplies power to the spark plugs, your coil goes bad then you see your rpm's drop to 0 and your car ain't moving then you know whats up.