nerdboy1024

94 honda delsol si d16z6 vtech

replaced timing belt, water pump, dizzy, and main relay.

still no spark, any ideas? anyone in wpb florida have a honda that ould hook my ecu up to see if it works, or a known working ecu to see if the car sparks, what other parts would prevent it from sparking? any tests anyone know to help trouble shoot? would a pt3 ecu work on my car?

nerdboy1024

and there is no CEL. it turns on then 2 sec it is off, fuel pump runs, i have fuel pressure.injectors are fine. still no spark.

biotech0123

Id still check the ICM and the coil just to be on the safe side, keep it simple.

nerdboy1024

coil is fine, 16olm dunno how to test the icm

biotech0123

1. With the ignition switch off, remove the distributor ignition cap
2. remove the 2 screws to disconnect the BLK/YLW and WHT/BLU wires from the terminals A and B respectively.
3. Using a ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within specs

Primary winding resistance
(between the A and B terminals): 0.6-0.8 ohms

Secondary winding resistance
(between the A and secondary winding terminals): 12800-19200 ohms.

Quoted from helms....

nerdboy1024

icm and coil are good

nerdboy1024

any other ideas?

nerdboy1024

bbbbbbbump, please, any ideas

Mangotreemechanic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nerdboy1024 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">94 honda delsol si d16z6 vtech

replaced timing belt, water pump, dizzy, and main relay.

still no spark, any ideas? anyone in wpb florida have a honda that ould hook my ecu up to see if it works, or a known working ecu to see if the car sparks, what other parts would prevent it from sparking? any tests anyone know to help trouble shoot? would a pt3 ecu work on my car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do the simple troubleshoot test. Follow the spark trail. Does the coil give off a spark? Does the rotor send a spark to each spark plug wire? Does each spark plug wire send the spark to the plug terminal (leave off the spark plug)? Are the spark plugs new, or known to work?

nerdboy1024

as i stated earlier, icm and coil are good what other parts cause the spark, is there a way to hot wire the car to spark without the ecu?

nerdboy1024

bump please help,

instructor74

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nerdboy1024 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">coil is fine, 16olm dunno how to test the icm</TD></TR></TABLE>
If this is your true reading on your coil then it is bad 16ohm is way to high for the primary

Primary winding resistance
(between the A and B terminals): 0.6-0.8 ohms

and if its your secodary it way to low

Secondary winding resistance
(between the A and secondary winding terminals): 12800-19200 ohms.

nerdboy1024

ok, i re tested the coil, with the proper setting on a new multi meter, it comes back at 0.8

nerdboy1024

the multi meter is set at 200 on the horseshoe

EE_Chris

Did it stop sparking after you some maintenance?

All the ECU does to make a spark is it pulls the Yel/Grn (ICM trigger) wire to +12v (to charge the coil up) and then back to ground (to let the coil discharge to make a spark).

Using your meter on that Yel/Grn wire (DC volt setting ~20) while cranking the car - does it pulse at all?

Using a meter to test the coil is somewhat useless...unless the coil primary/secondary is completely blown open. If your meter has a scale lower than "200", use that for the primary coil measurement. The meter scale to be selected only needs to be bigger than what you expect to measure. If several turns of the coil shorted themselves together, you'd still measure a low ohm reading, but in reality its messed up. You need a current probe and o'scope to see this though.

nerdboy1024

first, thanks

Q- Did it stop sparking after you some maintenance?
A- yes, i flushed the coolant system out, water got everywhere under the engine, after problem without prevail new spark plug wires plugs roater dizzy ICM, timming belt, water pump,


no pulse
connecting the negative to the battery(meter) and the pos to the black/yel wire it acts as follows:
with the ignition off i get 0v
with it in the on position i get 11.73v
while it is cranking it drops to 9.5 volts and gradually decreases by .05(about give or take)
then going back to the on position it goes to 11.61v

EE_Chris

Did you replace the thermostat? If yes, did you make sure the ground on the thermo housing is hooked up (if you removed it)?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yel/Grn wire</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nerdboy1024 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">black/yel wire</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or was that a mistype on your part? The Blk/Yel wire is the supply voltage.

nerdboy1024

nice catch, not a mistype, was an error, i tested the wrong wire,

the this time i tested the yellow/green wire i get a 0.35v while is the start position it jumps to 0.45v

so where exactly does this wire go, i see 3 yel/grn wires to the ecu (one in each batch) i want to test continuity, and see if i get a higher voltage and if it gets a pulse at the source(possibly a shorted wire, or the main source for creating the pulse is bad(the ecu i think)).

nerdboy1024

bump

EE_Chris

For the P28 ECU, look at A21. But it looks like it starts out as a Red/Grn wire at the ECU, hits connector C103 - Pin 11 (passenger shock tower, top of the three big connectors) and from the other side of this connector it becomes Yel/Grn.

To test for a short to ground, disconnect the ECU and the distributor, and then make the measurement. Continuity is obvious.

Have you tried another distributor, by chance? I'm guessing (?) you never took off the thermostat housing, so no worries on that ground. The ECU is the main source of the trigger, as you suspected.

nerdboy1024

I've got continuity from the ECM to the dizzy. so what would cause it to not give a spark, when i do the jumper service test, the CEL stays solid, and the SRS light blinks(5s 5l 5s).

are there any sensors that may cause the ECM to not throw a code and to prevent the ICM from firing? do you think it is a good idea to remove a key sensor to see if the ECM throws a code, possibly a malfunction in the ECM? I'm thinking it i force it to trow a code that it would eliminate the ECM as being a problem. i opened the ECM, it is virgin(no chips) and looks clean(no burns, calcium deposits, mold, no popped capacitors, or anything else that looks suspect)

just to let you know, i appreciate your clear answers, makes it very easy for me to do the troubleshooting properly.

EE_Chris

You said earlier your CEL wasn't on, right? But now you're saying that when you jump the connector, it just stays solid? Solid CEL = bad ECU, however when that was the case for other people, the CEL was on to start with.

Just unplug the O2 sensor for a quick CEL test. It should throw Code 41 either before you ever start the car up or just a couple seconds afterwards.

You're confident in your timing belt installation?

nerdboy1024

without the jumper, the light is goes off in 2 sec, when i use the jumper, the light stays on and the srs flashes.

i'ma try the o2 sensor to see what happens. i'll do this now b4 it starts raining

yeah, i think i did a good job
but this problem came b4 i did the timing belt, i did the timing belt because i changed the water pump, it was leaking water over there.

LATINOSPEED

CRANK POSITION SENSOR? MY 00 TEG HAD THAT FAIL LAST WEEK NO CEL,SWAPPED IN A DISTRIBUTOR PROBLEM SOLVED ,DOES IT COUGH BACK AT YOU WHEN WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY OFF

nerdboy1024

what?